Calibrating Kapex

[howieb]

If my four cut error is .12 inches across 10 inches, should I move the scale .03 (or a little less) to the left?  Should I stop now?

Thanks,

Howie

 

[howieb]

Well, that wasn't so bad.  I'm down to .056 now, I'll probably try again.  I actually didn't know what to expect and gave the miter handle to big a tap, and had to tap back.  I think next time I'll know where to look (like, right at the one of the screws.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Put tape on the table and on the protractor and draw a line across both.  That will give you a visual que of where you were before you started messing around.  I take a single piece, go up over the protractor and draw my line then cut the tape carefully with a util knife to get a clean edge.

First time adjusting is the worst, it gets easier as you get a feel for it.

 

[ART at WORK]

Put tape on the table and on the protractor and draw a line across both.  That will give you a visual que of where you were before you started messing around.  I take a single piece, go up over the protractor and draw my line then cut the tape carefully with a util knife to get a clean edge.

First time adjusting is the worst, it gets easier as you get a feel for it.

Could you please make some photos, I dont follow where the potractor is in relation to the up and over.
Thanks

 

[howieb]

First of all, great tip with the tape.  I didn't draw a line, but I just put one piece of tape over the protractor (the miter angle guide with the angle numbers, for the person who wanted a picture - sorry, I didn't see your message until I was finished) and onto the front of the table, then cut the tape just under the protractor with a sharp razor.  I used the edges of the tape to gauge how far I moved the handle.

I think you only need to use the calculator for the first try, after that you can just look at the difference between the previous L & R measurements and the current L & R measurements, and figure out how far to move and in which direction by the difference.  At least it worked for me.

Anyway, it's now accurate to .00225 over 6.5 inches.  I think that's probably good enough?  Should I shoot for less?

Interesting thing.  AFTER I calibrated to this level of accuracy, at least the left hand LED guide is now perfectly accurate.  I think the right side needs a little adjustment, but so much closer than the first cut I made after unpacking.

Thanks,

Howie

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Miter angle gauge is the proper term, was drawing a blank when I posted last.

With your question regarding accuracy, I always tweak it tell it is "good enough" then go back to a 12" 5 cut test.  Or if I am in the field I do the ol carpenters test of making a cut, and flipping the off cut and butting it back to the original and seeing how they line up while both pressed into the fence. 

Did you test it for 45's?

 

[ART at WORK]

First of all, great tip with the tape.  I didn't draw a line, but I just put one piece of tape over the protractor (the miter angle guide with the angle numbers, for the person who wanted a picture - sorry, I didn't see your message until I was finished) and onto the front of the table, then cut the tape just under the protractor with a sharp razor.  I used the edges of the tape to gauge how far I moved the handle.

I think you only need to use the calculator for the first try, after that you can just look at the difference between the previous L & R measurements and the current L & R measurements, and figure out how far to move and in which direction by the difference.  At least it worked for me.

Anyway, it's now accurate to .00225 over 6.5 inches.  I think that's probably good enough?  Should I shoot for less?

Interesting thing.  AFTER I calibrated to this level of accuracy, at least the left hand LED guide is now perfectly accurate.  I think the right side needs a little adjustment, but so much closer than the first cut I made after unpacking.

Thanks,

Howie

If you have a few minutes I would still really appreciate  few Photos. Still not totally understanding.
Thanks
Pip

 

[howieb]

This shows the tape after calibrating the miter gauge.  You can see that the top piece is slightly to the left of the bottom.  The process was simply laying the tape across, cutting with a sharp razor just under the miter gauge, then moving the gauge and checking the difference between the top and bottom tape with my calipers.  (You can see my project in the background of he wider picture, almost ready for radiant tubing).

[attachimg=#]

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[ART at WORK]

Got it now thank you very much.
I am eagerly awaiting the delivery of a Kapex in the next days-
so this info is just perfect.

Thanks again.