Can KA+ be buffed out?

[Scorpion]

bult some desks for my kids.  Both turned out really nicely.  Daughters was white, son wanted black.  On finishing the black top, there's two spots that almost look like I didn't quite get the final coat wet enough.  From 2' it looks nice but at just the right angle, the blems are too obvious for me to be content. 

Can KA+ finish be buffed out to make the finish more consistent?  I've found a few threads where peeps claim they've used 1200 sandpaper but don't know the actual details or if the results end up nicer than what I have or if buying 1200 will just result in me just doing another coat.  What have you done? 

Thanks.

 

[tjbnwi]

Sand it with 240, shoot another coat of black or top coat with clear. Easier than buffing.

To answer your question it can be buffed. I recommend at 30 days of cure. Yes, buffing a finish out is a processes, practice is the best teacher.

Tom

 

[Scorpion]

That works.  Would be done if I just scuffed it and shot it instead of posting.  Thanks.

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[J0hn]

Suggestion  - next time you're finishing a project like that, consider using General Finish Black or White Poly.  Comes in 3 different sheens and is very easy to spray
https://generalfinishes.com/profess...mented-top-coats/enduro-pigmented-black-white

 

[JBag09]

Suggestion  - next time you're finishing a project like that, consider using General Finish Black or White Poly.  Comes in 3 different sheens and is very easy to spray
https://generalfinishes.com/profess...mented-top-coats/enduro-pigmented-black-white

  So maybe this is a dumb question, but with spraying the black poly, is this more like the KA+ where it's  pigmented and is the color and finish all in one? What do you do to prep the wood as far as primer?

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[J0hn]

So far, I have used several gallons of the black in different sheens - playing around with it on different projects and have just used a regular, high-quality primer.  They do make an 'undercoat' which is what I am going to try next time I have something to spray.

From their website:
"White Undercoat is very much like our Sanding Sealer with the addition of white colorant to provide primer undercoat for white/off-white finishes. High solids facilitate a fast film build. It dries tack free in 10-20 minutes. Recommended Accuspray HVLP atomizing sets: .072 tip and nozzle, No. 10 air cap"

Yes - the pigmented poly is the color and finish 'all in one'

"Enduro Pigmented Poly is a high solids pigmented finish. It is ideal for cabinets and millwork. Stocked in Black and White, custom colors are available upon request. White and Clear can be used as tint bases to achieve endless colors. For non architectural use. Can be used with General Finishes Glaze Effects. "

I have been paying about $60 per gallon for the Black Poly from my local specialty hardwood lumberyard.  Not cheap, but I am pleased with it.  Sprays easily, one coat will dry in about an hour, easy to sand, won't gum up like latex based paints. etc.  Lastly it should be more durable than lacquer

 

[wptski]

John:

What's your spraying setup for the GF Black Poly?

 

[J0hn]

It's actually pretty thin and easy to spray.  It's hard to get latex in the darker colors.  For example, Sherwin Pro Classic is not available in black - that is why I started using the Black Poly

I use a C.A. Technologies H20 Gun with their bandit pressure pot - although, with their poly, the pressure pot really isn't needed.http://www.spraycat.com/h20.html

GF has recommended tip sizes. My gun came with three needles/nozzles 1.3, 1.5 and 1.8 and I use the 1.3 or 1.5 with this (still playing around)

0.50 MM = 0.021 GF Dyes, Stains
0.7 MM = 0.028
0.9 MM = 0.036 GF Stains, Clears
1.1 MM = 0.043
1.3 MM = 0.051 GF Whites, Clears
1.5 MM = 0.061
1.8 MM = 0.072 Latex Paints

I recently bought another gun, the CP-FELCFM.  It is a low air consumption gun.  It cuts it down to almost half - roughly 6 CFM instead of 11 or 12 and on the last batch I sprayed, it worked greathttps://www.jnequipment.com/shop/pa...ish/cp-felcfm-smart-pack-lcfm-hvlp-spray-gun/

 

[wptski]

It's actually pretty thin and easy to spray.  It's hard to get latex in the darker colors.  For example, Sherwin Pro Classic is not available in black - that is why I started using the Black Poly

I use a C.A. Technologies H20 Gun with their bandit pressure pot - although, with their poly, the pressure pot really isn't needed.http://www.spraycat.com/h20.html

GF has recommended tip sizes. My gun came with three needles/nozzles 1.3, 1.5 and 1.8 and I use the 1.3 or 1.5 with this (still playing around)

0.50 MM = 0.021 GF Dyes, Stains
0.7 MM = 0.028
0.9 MM = 0.036 GF Stains, Clears
1.1 MM = 0.043
1.3 MM = 0.051 GF Whites, Clears
1.5 MM = 0.061
1.8 MM = 0.072 Latex Paints

Yeah, I know what you mean about dark latex.  I had some exterior flat black oil that tuned gray by the sun so I was looking to go to  quality black semi-gloss latex but all I could find was cheap black latex which I sprayed on two of three exterior areas as test last year.  The third area is labor intensive details with lots of masking needed.