Can LR32 End Stops Replace Parallel Guide Extensions for Ripping Narrow Stock

DrD

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I am looking at purchasing the Parallel Guides.  I already have the LR32 Sys.  Remodeling our house is draining the available funds.  Will the End Stops from the LR32 function as well as the Extensions for the Parallel Guides for ripping stock up to ~ 100 mm wide?

DrD
 
they should work but wont be as convenient as the paralel guide extentions.
the lr32 ones have to be removed before each cut
 
Yup - still not much of a problem as I typicalyl clamp the track down before cutting.

DrD
 
in that case its probably not too bad. try it and report back how well it works.
i might try it myself the next time
 
If you are talking about these guys - Edge Stops - then they can certainly serve as positioning devises for your rail.

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Peter

 
Peter Halle said:
If you are talking about these guys - Edge Stops - then they can certainly serve as positioning devises for your rail.

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Peter
I was confuse until I saw the picture!
But it should work.
 
Yes they can be used but keep in mind the scale needs to be aligned first. With the LR-32 system there is a notch in the router base plate for aligning the scale but you can use something like a scrap block wood clamped to the table as you align them. Just loosen the hex rod at the base connector that sits on the guide rail, then slide the rod until its reading as you want.

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The Edge Stops could be moved to middle hump on the guide rail and it gives you a little over 2 more inches.

Don't like the metric scale? Add your own. These came from Incremental Tools and is ID #5. The scale was trimmed to fit the hex side and super-glued in place.

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Perhaps it would make more sense to mark the work in the conventional way, allowing the extra 2.2mm for the off-side kerf. Clamp the rail in the usual way, but before making the cut set the Edge Stops by feel and not by calibrating them. Then for the rest of the repetitive rips you will save subsequent marking. If the strips you wish to rip are narrow enough to be within the Edge Stop range this could be a fairly effective method.

Of course if the saw is a TS55, not all the kerfs will be the same. It depends on the blade.
 
Michael Garrett said:
Do you mean calibrate them to the rail being used?

Yes, rails can vary slightly in width. If you look at my second first picture, I like to calibrate mine by making a partial cut and have a 2" wide strip past the saw blade. Then I don't have to worry about a kerf.
 
Yup, Edge Stops.  Must confess, while I do speak and read fairly decent German, I cannot get the hang of the various "edge," "end," "stops," "guides," and all those other Festool "thingamajigs."

Thanks for the heads-up re calibration to the Track," "Rail."

DrD
 
If you fix the Edge Stop off the back side of the rail, you can increase the max width of cut by the differential length from the channel to which the stop is attached to the rail splinter guard.

DrD
 
I had to rip some face frame and door pieces today. Seeing as I just got the LR 32 last week, I figured I'd give this a try. In the pictures you will notice I changed the rail ends to the ones with the lever, they work so much better. I already had them, I use them for the router stops when I use my rails as  trammels.

The way I set the stops up was, I unplugged the saw, set the FastFix, I wanted 1-3/4" pieces, so I set my tri-square off one of the teeth on the blade. Marked the board set the rail on the marks. Loosened the pin end knob of the LR-32 stop, mounted the stop to the rail, then slid the pin to the board and tightened the knob. I set both stops off the same end of the board. Double check the stops are adjusted the same by holding them against each other. It ended up being 22 mm on the scale at zero.

I would have normally rough length sized the pieces, then used the MFT and a spacer. This did work well for the longer pieces. With the lever on the rail ends it was very easy to loosen and tighten the stops.

This is pretty much the same way I set up the LR-32 stops in the post Chuck had in Member Projects about the Ipe floor. Main difference is I used the center line of the 1010 to align the rail.

The waste piece is in the pictures also.

Tom
 

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