Can/should these panels be glued in?

R

RonMiller

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Oct 17, 2009
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I'm making a headboard for a bed and the requested "pine country" style involves some frame and panel sections. The part I'm concerned with has 4 panels across that are 24" high x 16" wide. They are to be set into 1/2" deep grooves in 3" wide, 1 1/4" thick frames. The panels are 3/4" thick knotty pine ply (good quality from Nashville plywood). I door a fair number of cabinet doors with a ply panel which I would glue in but I'm concerned with the size of these. Should I be? Can I use that method here? If not, I'll probably make the grooves a bit deeper since I want this to be solid.

Anyone have any experience with this kind of thing?
 
I use the space foam cord to center the panel in the groove & also glue the center 2" or pin the panel in the center from the back of the the panel top & bottom. This will insure that any expansion & contraction that happens will be from the center out. If you don't glue the center & your groove is tighter on one side all the movement would be on one side. I do this for both solid & veneer panels & find it works well.

Gerry
 
Ron

The rule of thumb is do not glue panels in to a rebate.

Whilst ply will not move as much as solid timber there will still be some expansion and contraction with the changes in humidity and season in the panel frame.

The very design of frame and panel is meant to accomodate this and if you glue them then you will cause a stress point and something will give.

I have never used spaceballs, here in the UK when we have glass deliveries, the panes are seperated by 2mm blue soft foam spacers, and i cut them to size, so the spaceball concept is a good way to go.
 
Ron,
    I'm with Tom on using Space Balls and NOT gluing panels to accommodate expansion/contraction.  I like Tom's emergency solution, too.  I've even seen the use of sliced off chunks of backer rod, too. 

[smile]
 
You can glue the panels into the grooves in the centre of the rails just in a small spot to hold them steady but you should leave them free to move elsewhere.
 
What I used to do (before I bought my big box of space balls that will last a lifetime) was to sink a 1/4" dowel into the panel slot top and bottom center.
The dowel sits in a hole drilled at the bottom of the slot. Chamfer the edges of the dowel (before insertion!) and make it about half the height of the slot. The you notch at the center of the panel to fit around the dowel, and that will keep it aligned side to side. Wood movement in the other direction is pretty much nonexistent.
 
I don't glue the panels in, just didn't learn it that way. Used many various things as others have mentioned, not the space balls though. Over the years I've ended up just putting a thin bead of clear silicone in the groove on 2 sides. Works well, keeps the panels from sliding or rattling, once it dries no smell, the silicone caulk has plenty of give for expansion, never had a problem yet. A bit unconventional mixing the two but its fast and works for me.
 
Panels are fine to be glued if they are plywood and small. I've done it for years and you'll find this advice at FWW and other reputable sites. I've also used space balls, etc. that folks suggested. What I'm hoping to find is someone who knows at what size this "gluing ply" no longer is wise. If there isn't a way to know, I'll just put these panels together using one of the other methods. I've always liked the extra strength that comes from the gluing but  maybe not this large.
 
Ron - I use 23 gauge pins to hold the panels in place since they are almost invisible (at least to someone my age).
 
I've been using Spaceballs for quite a while now. However, I was glancing through some CMT literature today and they suggested a method I had not heard of: Run a 1/8" or 3/16" bead (or beads) of silicone on wax paper (doesn't matter how long). Let it dry and then cut the bead into short pieces to make your own flexible spacers. I see some pros and cons with this. First of all, I don't like silicone anywhere near my shop. I suppose I could do it elsewhere. On a positive note, I think Spaceballs are a little too thick. They force you to make the panel shorter and narrower than I like, exposing too much of the flat "tongue". Using this method, I could make them a little smaller. Anybody ever tried this technique?

TC
 
ThomasC said:
I've been using Spaceballs for quite a while now. However, I was glancing through some CMT literature today and they suggested a method I had not heard of: Run a 1/8" or 3/16" bead (or beads) of silicone on wax paper (doesn't matter how long). Let it dry and then cut the bead into short pieces to make your own flexible spacers. I see some pros and cons with this. First of all, I don't like silicone anywhere near my shop. I suppose I could do it elsewhere. On a positive note, I think Spaceballs are a little too thick. They force you to make the panel shorter and narrower than I like, exposing too much of the flat "tongue". Using this method, I could make them a little smaller. Anybody ever tried this technique?

TC
Click to expand...

I have been making my own "space balls" out of silicone for some time.  When I have a bit extra in a tube I just make beads or dots of various sizes.  Spaceballs are more uniform but the homemade ones have worked well for me.
 
I have used slices of backer rod, foam weather stripping, little dobs of latex caulk. doesn't really matter what you use as long as it has some 'give' to it.
 
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