Hello everyone, I recently bought a kapex but unfortunately wasn't able to test it out within the first 30 days to be able to return it, ( even though from the date I received the tool, it had only been 28days ). I didn't buy the saw to return it so I decided to have festool fix the issues with the saw. No matter what I did I couldn't get vertical or horizontal square miter cuts. I just got the saw back on Friday for the second time after the issue had been supposedly repaired but I still cannot get square cuts. Not exactly sure what to do so I thought I'd ask here to see if someone else had a similar experience with kapex. Considering the cost of this saw, this is very disappointing. Appreciate your feedback.
Cannot make square cuts with Kapex 120REB
- Thread starter Zafar
- Start date
When you say square cuts are you referring to issues with top to bottom or front to back of a workpiece? It would helpful to know.so that answers will be appropriate.
Peter
Peter
Mini Me
Member
He specified both horizontal and vertical in the OP.
waho6o9
Member
I had the same problem, my blade was bent. i put the blade on a flat surface and used a feeler gauge and determined i bent the blade when using my Kapex without
a zero clearance fence.
I'd use a magnetic angle box on the blade to ensure a 0 degree plane. Then i would figure out the base...... Good luck
a zero clearance fence.
I'd use a magnetic angle box on the blade to ensure a 0 degree plane. Then i would figure out the base...... Good luck
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Appreciate the suggestion. I will try that, however, I have only had it for couple of months and It's gone in twice for repair, you would think that they would check the blade as well. Either their support is incompetent or the there is a manufacturing defect. I still cannot get square cuts. I will keep sending it back until they fix this tool.
waho6o9
Member
I took some pictures, not sure if this what you were talking about. This is how it came from Festool after repair...I have not made any adjustments. I did call them but was rudely told that it was fixed when it left the repair facility.
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waho6o9
Member
So the blade isn't square to the fence when you cut the plywood? That's odd. Thanks for the pictures
I used two different squares, and yes they are true.
The fence is not 90 degreed to the base. there is a variation of degrees from right to left. It could just be the fence that needs to be replaced
smorgasbord
Member
Time for the obligatory-from-me caveat that while the angle cubes are handy, they're not uber accurate. Wixey itself only claims +/- 0.2º accuracy, with repeatabilty at +/- 0.1º.
Your squares are much better than that. Personally, I'd use a good 1-2-3 block and feeler gauges to check fence to table and blade to table squareness. But, for cutting plywood flat on the table, if your fence is straight (good straightedge with feeler gauges to test) than it's just the miter angle that needs to be tweaked.
However, @Zafar 's comments seem reasonable - the fence might have a twist in it, which affects not only in the horizontal plane, but in the vertical planes as well.
I wish I could comment on Festool's repair service. For other manufacturers I'm sure they'd say this is within specs, since they sell their SCMSs for carpentry use, not furniture making.
Your squares are much better than that. Personally, I'd use a good 1-2-3 block and feeler gauges to check fence to table and blade to table squareness. But, for cutting plywood flat on the table, if your fence is straight (good straightedge with feeler gauges to test) than it's just the miter angle that needs to be tweaked.
However, @Zafar 's comments seem reasonable - the fence might have a twist in it, which affects not only in the horizontal plane, but in the vertical planes as well.
I wish I could comment on Festool's repair service. For other manufacturers I'm sure they'd say this is within specs, since they sell their SCMSs for carpentry use, not furniture making.
Hi, I have bad cut issues with my now third Kapex. Does not seem to be a solution from Festool. My third one is in for a second repair attempt. Not too hopeful. Currently shopping for a replacement brand. Do you have any recommendations.
Packard
Member
When I was a picture framer, I tried cutting miters with a (new) DeWalt chop saw. It was never satisfactory and I ended up getting a Lion Miter Trimmer (sort of like a shooting board) to fine tune the miters.
I finally got a dedicated miter saw that cut 45 degree angles only. It was machined at the factory to their best tolerances. But to assure perfect miters, cuts were made on opposite sides of the blade, backstopping their accurate cuts with geometry (complimentary angles).
I am not sure a chop saw can hold +/- 0.1 degree angles. I am not even sure if you made 5 cuts in a row that they would all read the same. If you need that kind of precision, either use complimentary angles or a Morse-style chopper.
With cuts on opposite sides of the blade, you end up with complimentary angles, so even if they are off and one side is 44.9 degrees, then the other side will always be the complement or 45.1 degrees and the total will always be 90 degrees. With a little planning, you set the 45 degrees setting and lock it in and don’t move it until both cuts are made.
Or if you prefer the sound and fury of spinning blades and sawdust, a double head miter saw. The spindles are set at the factory, and from my experience are always 100% accurate. Note: The guards have been removed for this video. With the guards in place you cannot see the blades at all.
I finally got a dedicated miter saw that cut 45 degree angles only. It was machined at the factory to their best tolerances. But to assure perfect miters, cuts were made on opposite sides of the blade, backstopping their accurate cuts with geometry (complimentary angles).
I am not sure a chop saw can hold +/- 0.1 degree angles. I am not even sure if you made 5 cuts in a row that they would all read the same. If you need that kind of precision, either use complimentary angles or a Morse-style chopper.
With cuts on opposite sides of the blade, you end up with complimentary angles, so even if they are off and one side is 44.9 degrees, then the other side will always be the complement or 45.1 degrees and the total will always be 90 degrees. With a little planning, you set the 45 degrees setting and lock it in and don’t move it until both cuts are made.
Or if you prefer the sound and fury of spinning blades and sawdust, a double head miter saw. The spindles are set at the factory, and from my experience are always 100% accurate. Note: The guards have been removed for this video. With the guards in place you cannot see the blades at all.
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The post you read was abbreviated due to earlier conversations. The bad cut issue is the same as others: right side of blade, cut into with burn marks at saw winddown post trigger release. The extra bite creates a gap at end of cut when putting the two 45's together and at 90's a bit worse. I sent pictures of the same burn/bad cuts on successive pieces and a sample wood piece on the first repair attempt. It appears not just systemic to my machine but to the production line itself.
