Cast Iron Treatments

Birdhunter

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
4,144
My shop is dry, but I still get tiny rust spots on my cast iron tables. I can remove most spots with a sander, WD40, and a purple Scotchbright pad. I don't like using wax as it can affect finishes.

Any suggestions?
 
Do yo get the rust spots all year round or just in the winter?

Do you heat your shop all the time, or just when you use it?

 
I have been using Felder's Metalsiegel for years now to protect all my cast iron surfaces. It is easy to apply (just wipe it on, no buffing required as with waxes) and I never noticed any adverse effects. It came in a large bottle with one of my machines, but I would buy it if it I were to run out. I seem to remember other people were using one of Boshield's products. There must be other good products as well. Just remember WD40 is "just" a water repellent, but it does not offer the same protection as a sealing product.
 
"Just remember WD40 is "just" a water repellent"

Correct, it was the 40th formula for Water Displacement, hence, WD40
 
From my experience, cast iron rusts mainly due to condensation.  If you heat the room just when you work there, then the cast iron remains colder than the rest of the room and is ripe for condensation, and then for rust. 

Running a dehumidifier will help. 

There are also anti-condensation warmers.  These are usually used in enclosed spaces like toolboxes, gun safes, etc.  But placed under a cast iron surface, it can work well too.

I am not certain of the exact term to google for those devices.  But my search shows many options:
https://www.google.com/search?q=anti-condenstion warmer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

As an amusing side bar, the company I used to work for made metal parts and we often would ship full (44,0000 pound) loads.  Our customer arranged the shipment and the truck arrived with a “refer” trailer (refrigerator trailer).

This is fine as long as the driver did not turn on the refrigeration unit.

But that was not what he did.

It travelled from Yonkers, New York, to Plant City, Florida.  Our galvanized bails looked fine coming out of the truck, however moisture quickly condensed on the surfaces and by morning, most of the product suffered from “white rust” (zinc oxide).

I don’t know how this was resolved.  It was between the trucker and our customer.  We only supplied expert evaluation as to how the problem occurred.

My shop is in the basement and I never heat or cool the basement.  I have a dehumidifier that I run occasionally. I don’t have a rust problem in my shop, though some very old nails and screws are rusted.  Most iron castings have some graphite in the casting and it offers a moderate amount of corrosion protection.  But mostly I think wood polishes off any incipient corrosion before it is really visible. 
 
Blast the entire surface with a blowtorch burning MAPP gas at 3,600 degrees F. It blues the metal and oxidises it. No rust ever again.
 
woodbutcherbower said:
Blast the entire surface with a blowtorch burning MAPP gas. It blues the metal and oxidises it. No rust ever again.

But I believe you run the risk of warping the castings, and stress-relieving stamping resulting in angle changes in any of the bends in the metal.  I would approach that method with care.

I am not familiar with the change in chemistry the torch would make that would enhance rust resistance.

I do know that heat treated parts, direct from the oven, will start to corrode in a matter of hours if left in treated.  The high temperatures will burn off any residual oils leaving the metal vulnerable to oxidation.
 
Years ago I came across a process nicknamed Dave's Dirty Dozen that works great. I don't follow this completely but it's a good guideline:

1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...

Dave Arbuckle
 
Some people report good results using this stuff

https://carbonmethod.com/carbon-coat-graphene-protection-for-metal/#:~:text=The%20only%20corrosion%20protection%20your%20saw%20will%20ever%20need!&text=Carbon%20Coat%20is%20a%20revolutionary,smooth%20for%20years%20to%20come.

I have never used it and I know there are YT videos by some who have. Cast Iron was meant to rust so I can't be bothered getting fussy over it, I use some metal polish with a Scotch Brite pad on a random orbital sander when it gets too bad and let it go at that.
 
Since there's a market for Cast Iron "protection," there are several out there that can work.  However, I have an old 60's/70's 8" Powermatic Jointer with the original owner's manual. It recommends filling the pores of your cast iron with Talc.
In keeping your iron protected from humidity, it recommends you cover the Cast Iron with Talcum Powder take a chalk board eraser and rub it in each week at the beginning of the week for three weeks until shiny.  Then once a year during annual maintenance when you strip and clean the Cast Iron, re apply.  Seems to work really well as my Cast Iron has never rusted and I have lived in the Dismal Swamp of Southeastern Virginia for over 30 years...  I understand what humidity is...  [big grin] 

Talc is MUCH cheaper than most of the "additives" we use on Cast Iron and while my Laguna LT-18 Cast Iron has been treated with Carbon Method, the finish and ability to move wood across the iron is no better or worse than my Jointer.  I can get 38 ounces of Talcum Powder on Amazon for under $20 and it will last decades.  My brother spent $200 on Carbon Method and it needs to be done once a year too.  Lots of choices out there for varying budgets. 

Cheers
Dan
 
BigDan said:
Since there's a market for Cast Iron "protection," there are several out there that can work.  However, I have an old 60's/70's 8" Powermatic Jointer with the original owner's manual. It recommends filling the pores of your cast iron with Talc.
In keeping your iron protected from humidity, it recommends you cover the Cast Iron with Talcum Powder take a chalk board eraser and rub it in each week at the beginning of the week for three weeks until shiny.  Then once a year during annual maintenance when you strip and clean the Cast Iron, re apply.  Seems to work really well as my Cast Iron has never rusted and I have lived in the Dismal Swamp of Southeastern Virginia for over 30 years...  I understand what humidity is...  [big grin] 

Talc is MUCH cheaper than most of the "additives" we use on Cast Iron and while my Laguna LT-18 Cast Iron has been treated with Carbon Method, the finish and ability to move wood across the iron is no better or worse than my Jointer.  I can get 38 ounces of Talcum Powder on Amazon for under $20 and it will last decades.  My brother spent $200 on Carbon Method and it needs to be done once a year too.  Lots of choices out there for varying budgets. 

Cheers
Dan

Dig out your Covid mask and goggles before the baby powder (main ingredient is talc).

Talc was classified as “probably carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2A) based on a combination of “limited” evidence for cancer in humans, “sufficient” evidence for cancer in experimental animals, and “strong” mechanistic evidence in human primary cells and experimental systems.Jul 5, 2024

Carcinogenicity of talc and acrylonitrile - The Lancet Oncology

The Lancet

Also, Johnson & Johnson made a settlement offer:

As of October 2024, over 62,000 lawsuits have been filed against Johnson & Johnson (J&J) for their talcum powder products, including Johnson's Baby Powder and Shower to Shower:
Settlement offer
In May 2024, J&J proposed an $8 billion settlement for current and future victims of ovarian cancer. The majority of plaintiffs voted in favor of the settlement, but it still needs to be approved by the courts.


 
Packard said:
Dig out your Covid mask and goggles before the baby powder (main ingredient is talc).

Talc was classified as “probably carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2A) based on a combination of “limited” evidence for cancer in humans, “sufficient” evidence for cancer in experimental animals, and “strong” mechanistic evidence in human primary cells and experimental systems.Jul 5, 2024

I mean, talc powder is basically powdered stone so it's easy to see that lungs may have a difficult time clearing that. Much like asbestos dust, but that was much more tested. Same reason West System 404 filler has a bunch of warnings: powdered silicates (I treat that stuff like an angry isotope). I'm always surprised there isn't more concern for gypsum dust unless drywallers are, um, expendable.
 
Packard said:
BigDan said:
Since there's a market for Cast Iron "protection," there are several out there that can work.  However, I have an old 60's/70's 8" Powermatic Jointer with the original owner's manual. It recommends filling the pores of your cast iron with Talc.
In keeping your iron protected from humidity, it recommends you cover the Cast Iron with Talcum Powder take a chalk board eraser and rub it in each week at the beginning of the week for three weeks until shiny.  Then once a year during annual maintenance when you strip and clean the Cast Iron, re apply.  Seems to work really well as my Cast Iron has never rusted and I have lived in the Dismal Swamp of Southeastern Virginia for over 30 years...  I understand what humidity is...  [big grin] 

Talc is MUCH cheaper than most of the "additives" we use on Cast Iron and while my Laguna LT-18 Cast Iron has been treated with Carbon Method, the finish and ability to move wood across the iron is no better or worse than my Jointer.  I can get 38 ounces of Talcum Powder on Amazon for under $20 and it will last decades.  My brother spent $200 on Carbon Method and it needs to be done once a year too.  Lots of choices out there for varying budgets. 

Cheers
Dan

Dig out your Covid mask and goggles before the baby powder (main ingredient is talc).

Talc was classified as “probably carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2A) based on a combination of “limited” evidence for cancer in humans, “sufficient” evidence for cancer in experimental animals, and “strong” mechanistic evidence in human primary cells and experimental systems.Jul 5, 2024

Carcinogenicity of talc and acrylonitrile - The Lancet Oncology

The Lancet

Also, Johnson & Johnson made a settlement offer:

As of October 2024, over 62,000 lawsuits have been filed against Johnson & Johnson (J&J) for their talcum powder products, including Johnson's Baby Powder and Shower to Shower:
Settlement offer
In May 2024, J&J proposed an $8 billion settlement for current and future victims of ovarian cancer. The majority of plaintiffs voted in favor of the settlement, but it still needs to be approved by the courts.

Was it the talc per se that was the issue or the undisclosed traces of asbestos that was also in the product?
 
Michael Kellough said:
Packard said:
BigDan said:
Since there's a market for Cast Iron "protection," there are several out there that can work.  However, I have an old 60's/70's 8" Powermatic Jointer with the original owner's manual. It recommends filling the pores of your cast iron with Talc.
In keeping your iron protected from humidity, it recommends you cover the Cast Iron with Talcum Powder take a chalk board eraser and rub it in each week at the beginning of the week for three weeks until shiny.  Then once a year during annual maintenance when you strip and clean the Cast Iron, re apply.  Seems to work really well as my Cast Iron has never rusted and I have lived in the Dismal Swamp of Southeastern Virginia for over 30 years...  I understand what humidity is...  [big grin] 

Talc is MUCH cheaper than most of the "additives" we use on Cast Iron and while my Laguna LT-18 Cast Iron has been treated with Carbon Method, the finish and ability to move wood across the iron is no better or worse than my Jointer.  I can get 38 ounces of Talcum Powder on Amazon for under $20 and it will last decades.  My brother spent $200 on Carbon Method and it needs to be done once a year too.  Lots of choices out there for varying budgets. 

Cheers
Dan

Dig out your Covid mask and goggles before the baby powder (main ingredient is talc).

Talc was classified as “probably carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2A) based on a combination of “limited” evidence for cancer in humans, “sufficient” evidence for cancer in experimental animals, and “strong” mechanistic evidence in human primary cells and experimental systems.Jul 5, 2024

Carcinogenicity of talc and acrylonitrile - The Lancet Oncology

The Lancet

Also, Johnson & Johnson made a settlement offer:

As of October 2024, over 62,000 lawsuits have been filed against Johnson & Johnson (J&J) for their talcum powder products, including Johnson's Baby Powder and Shower to Shower:
Settlement offer
In May 2024, J&J proposed an $8 billion settlement for current and future victims of ovarian cancer. The majority of plaintiffs voted in favor of the settlement, but it still needs to be approved by the courts.

Was it the talc per se that was the issue or the undisclosed traces of asbestos that was also in the product?

I was always under the impression that it was the talc.  I will google it to see what it was.

But you wouldn’t expect a big, multi-national company offer to settle for 8 billion dollars if there was nothing behind it.

Addendum:  It was the asbestos, as you suggested.  Apparently, there is no easy way to separate the talc from the asbestos.  The huge liability partially stemmed from the health issues suffered, but loomed larger after it was shown that J & J knew about the asbestos and the dangers it posed for the users.

But my warning still has legs.  If J & J could not separate the asbestos from the talc, it would be a fair bet that any talc you buy today would also have asbestos contamination. So, break out those Covid masks if you use the stuff.
https://www.asbestos.com/companies/johnson-johnson/
 
Boeshield works for me as well…for many years-  Third Recommendation for Boeshield.  Only my Niece has managed to defeat it in all the years I've been using it.  She's on the 1st floor, my shop is in the basement.  She got careless with a Freshwater Fish Tank that sits directly above my 20" Delta Drill Press.  Water leaked through the floor, onto the table of the Drill Press..  What ever was in that water caused a battle with rust spots for time until I got it under control.... [doh] [doh] [doh]
 
leakyroof said:
Boeshield works for me as well…for many years-  Third Recommendation for Boeshield.  Only my Niece has managed to defeat it in all the years I've been using it.  She's on the 1st floor, my shop is in the basement.  She got careless with a Freshwater Fish Tank that sits directly above my 20" Delta Drill Press.  Water leaked through the floor, onto the table of the Drill Press..  What ever was in that water caused a battle with rust spots for time until I got it under control.... [doh] [doh] [doh]

Your username checks out  [thumbs up]
 
Back
Top