Cast Iron Treatments

[guybo]

I'm always surprised there isn't more concern for gypsum dust unless drywallers are, um, expendable.

  [crying] alls we are is dust in the wind  [big grin]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Your username checks out  [thumbs up]

Exactly my thought as well. Maybe "leaky ceiling"? LOL

We have always used wax and never had an issue with it. I don't really know how it could be a problem. It takes quite a bit of time to wear it off, so only micro amounts could ever be on any one part. Plus, you don't go directly from the saw surface to finishing anyway, there's some sanding/scraping in there somewhere.
Lately, I have started using a wax that I make myself. It has more microcrystalline wax than the commercially sold stuff. It's harder and longer wearing. My jointer likes it.

I've used Boeshield too. That's what is on my bandsaw table at home. That's all that has ever been on it.

 

[leakyroof]

Boeshield works for me as well…for many years-  Third Recommendation for Boeshield.  Only my Niece has managed to defeat it in all the years I've been using it.  She's on the 1st floor, my shop is in the basement.  She got careless with a Freshwater Fish Tank that sits directly above my 20" Delta Drill Press.  Water leaked through the floor, onto the table of the Drill Press..  What ever was in that water caused a battle with rust spots for time until I got it under control.... [doh] [doh] [doh]

Your username checks out  [thumbs up]

Bada Boom...  He'll be here the whole week folks- Nightly shows... [poke] [poke]
  Actually , when I first registered here on FOG, I was living with a fairly leaking roof, the worst was 4 active leaks in a very heavy rain , at the same time. Buckets everywhere.... That was NOT a fun time back then---- [doh] [doh]
Leak free since the Complete Tearoff in 2010[  Flat Roof]

 

[Birdhunter]

Tons of comments so rust must be a common problem. One of the channels I visit covers metal machining. The guy uses the term “flash rust” when talking about cast iron.

 

[Packard]

Use the table saw every single day:  Voile!  No more rust. [big grin]

 

[leakyroof]

Tons of comments so rust must be a common problem. One of the channels I visit covers metal machining. The guy uses the term “flash rust” when talking about cast iron.

Flash rust is particularly annoying after you’ve media blasted something… [sad]

 

[Birdhunter]

I was working on a friend’s funeral flag case and blew dust out of the miter slot. It hit me that I was probably blowing tine droplets of saliva onto the saw top, thus, some of the tiny rust dots. I’ll use a brush from now on.

 

[Packard]

I would note that cleanliness is an enemy of cast iron.  The opposite of what you might imagine. 

You don’t want the cast surfaces to be too clean.  Iron that is sufficiently clean will start to rust within hours.  Not 48 hours or 24 hours, but within 1 to 2 hours.

If your car has alloy wheels that are open enough that you can observe the rotors, you can see this on a rainy day.  The brake pads will wipe the rotors entirely free of oils and contaminants, leaving a surface that is ripe for rust.  After 3 or 4 hours take a close look at the rotors and you will see rust forming. 

It is not a problem because the first time you use your brakes, the pads will wipe away any rust. 

Don’t use any solvent on your castings’ machined surfaces.  Do keep a well-used rag that might have traces of oil on it to wipe down your castings.  The dirtier it is, the better. 

If you don’t have a dirty rag, then lightly spray a rag with WD40 and allow it time to fully dry out. 

 

[rst]

Back in the “good old days”, I’m 71, I would heat my saw table with a heat gun and rub wax pieces from wifey’s candles then use a fine cut conditioning pad to treat my tops. I now use Boeshield.  For my PM tablesaw I bought one of the magnetic pads which worked perfectly even if I didn’t use the saw for months at a time as a result of getting track saws.