Center drill for masonry?

[threesixright]

I was looking for a center drill for masonry, for screwing hinges to a outside wall.

I know there is the “tape” trick for preventing your drill to “run off”.

Any reason why there is not (i can not find it) a center drill for masonry? Could you use a wood version and change the drill bit (with same dia)?

Thanks!

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[neeleman]

Are you attaching hinges directly to the masonry wall, sounds strange to me?

For drilling exact located holes in hard tiles I use one of these. These are rated till 90 Mohs hardness.
They are also known as glass drill bits.
I also use them for drilling masonry because it's relatively soft material compared to tiles or glass.
You can also drill the first centimeter with these drill bits and go further with a normal drill bit.

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have good luck starting the hole in just rotary mode with a masonry bit. After the hole is started, I switch to rotary/hammer mode.

 

[threesixright]

Are you attaching hinges directly to the masonry wall, sounds strange to me?

Thanks, thats a great tip, will try that!

Yeah, I should have phrased it differently  :-[ Its not truly a hinge, but a base plate with 4 screw holes (and an "eye" to hook a hammock on).

Yet, the principle is the same. Of course 3 holes where spot-on, yet with number #4 the drill went off a bit. Feel like an idiot, should have used the tape. Yeah, lazy

Was just curious why for these applications I didn't see a similar solution as for wood & hinges.

 

[threesixright]

I have good luck starting the hole in just rotary mode with a masonry bit. After the hole is started, I switch to rotary/hammer mode.

Yeah, I actually always do it like this (good tip). But the "hand-formed" bricks are not flat, and the drill still got away from me [mad]

 

[Bohdan]

Was just curious why for these applications I didn't see a similar solution as for wood & hinges.

In the case of when you have multiple holes I drill the first one and use it to anchor the fixture and then use a drill the size of the holes in the fixture as a starting/marking hole for the other holes.

 

[threesixright]

Was just curious why for these applications I didn't see a similar solution as for wood & hinges.

In the case of when you have multiple holes I drill the first one and use it to anchor the fixture and then use a drill the size of the holes in the fixture as a starting/marking hole for the other holes.

OMG. thank you, now I feel even more stupid! [big grin]

Great tip!

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[Cheese]

In the case of when you have multiple holes I drill the first one and use it to anchor the fixture and then use a drill the size of the holes in the fixture as a starting/marking hole for the other holes.

+1  [smile]

 

[jamesthomsan]

Hey Buddy!

You must know concrete is a pretty hard material and that’s the main obstacle you must deal with while drilling a hole in it.

As you’re drilling the outside wall and if the concrete is old, it might be much denser than some of the cosmetic concrete used in modern construction and finishes. So, using a wood version of the same dia drill bit is not the way forward, as it will fail badly.

A reliable rotary drill and a masonry bit are all that you need to perform this task of screwing hinges to an outside wall.

Further, you must know that rapid hammer action was specially designed for drilling into masonry or rock. Their carbide-tipped masonry bits are widely available, and they can bore a two-inch deep and ¼ inch wide hole in less than a minute.

 

[threesixright]

Hey Buddy!

You must know concrete is a pretty hard material and that’s the main obstacle you must deal with while drilling a hole in it.

As you’re drilling the outside wall and if the concrete is old, it might be much denser than some of the cosmetic concrete used in modern construction and finishes. So, using a wood version of the same dia drill bit is not the way forward, as it will fail badly.

A reliable rotary drill and a masonry bit are all that you need to perform this task of screwing hinges to an outside wall.

Further, you must know that rapid hammer action was specially designed for drilling into masonry or rock. Their carbide-tipped masonry bits are widely available, and they can bore a two-inch deep and ¼ inch wide hole in less than a minute.

Thanks! Well I should have explained myself better  :

With wood version, I meant the festool "Centrotec Self-Centering Bit 5mm" (used for hinges) and replace just the drill bit with a masonry bit. Don't think that was clear  [embarassed]

What I was trying todo, drilling a few holes for hinges (see photo) on a brick wall (photo). Since thats not truly even surface the bit very easy wanders off. Therefore I thought a centering bit could make the initial holes.

Cheers!

 

[grobkuschelig]

Great tips in this thread!

There is a self-centering automated center punch available from Starrett. I use this to get the holes marked.
If you want, you can use a small masonry drill bit to establish the hole location first, depending on your needed hole size. Otherwise drilling with no hammer action and almost no pressure for a couple of seconds usually also makes a nice starting point to get a hole without a wandering bit.

Maybe there are other tricks available, would be happy to learn what others do.

 

[AlexThePalex]

With wood version, I meant the festool "Centrotec Self-Centering Bit 5mm" (used for hinges) and replace just the drill bit with a masonry bit. Don't think that was clear  [embarassed]

Seems like a great way to destroy your €60 precision bit. Keep it away from concrete and hammer drills.

If you want to avoid wandering off with your drill bit, make a template out of wood or plastic for the holes and use that as a guide. Start slowly without hammering and once you have a pilot hole you can go full throttle.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Another tip that might work in this case since that brick looks quite soft is to use an expendable wood drill bit that just fits through the hardware and drill just a little bit to make a conical depression that the proper sized masonry drill bit will center in. Then mount the hardware and use it locate the other holes as above.

A small steel cutting abrasive disk can quickly (crudely) redress the end of the wood bit.

 

[RKA]

This doesn't answer the question you asked, and you might not want to hear this now given you probably installed this last July...but it's good to keep in mind.  Anchoring something structural in nature to brick can be dicey.  Brick is pretty soft and has hollow areas.  The mortar set between the brick is usually harder and more consistent (not hollow), so it's better to set your screws there, assuming the mortar is in good condition.  With those anchor plates if the top and bottom rows don't evenly line up with the mortar around the brick, you could put the top two screws into mortar and the bottom two into the brick with the appropriate fastener.  That might be a reasonable compromise. 

 

[Cheese]

I use a Tapcon 5/32" carbide cement drill for a center drill. I'll mark the hole centers carefully and using the rotation mode only at a slow speed, I'll let the point of the drill just wear away whatever I'm drilling. The drill bit only needs to go to a depth of 1/8" to make a nice centering point for the larger cement drills.

I use the 5/32" drill ONLY for marking the centers of holes. I never use the hammer drive mode on it and it's still in good shape. When I need to replace it, I'll just purchase another Tapcon bit for $4.

 

[rst]

A good way to be sure that you are drilling where you want is to draw three Vs all pointing to the center.  This also works well with holes, make your Vs touching the circumference.  As mentioned above when hanging any thing with multiple pints of attachments, fasten one whole and then use the piece to drill the other points.  I do commercial door work and that is how I install door closers, one self tapper and then hold the piece in position and drill and fasten as I go.