Centrotec countersink with depth stop problem

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Can anyone give me the correct Festool part number for a 3.5/13 replacement drill bit for my Centrotec countersink with depth stop unit pictured below. Having difficulty locating the correct part number. need to order replacements. The countersink I have has the Festool number 446106 stamped on it, but searching that number gets me nowhere.

I would appreciate any help finding the correct part number

 

[six-point socket II]

If you did search with 446106, that will get you nowhere because it is 446108. BUT that won’t help either.

What you are looking for is 492523 (https://www.festool.com/accessory/d...rsinks/drill-countersink/492523---bsta-hs-d-3,5-ce#Overview )

And the spare bit alone (Pack of five) is 494445 (https://www.festool.com/accessory/d...lls/spare-part-drill-bit/494445---eb-bsta-d-3,55 )

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

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[member=61712]six-point socket II[/member]

Much obliged Oliver, thank you - just ordered the 5pc set

Bob K

 

[Packard]

I don’t have the Centrotech pieces.  I use a conventional coutersink.

I would drill the appropriate size hole and then add the coutersink as a second operation.  The coutersink always had chatter marks.

A friend suggested that I try using the countersink first and then drill the hole.  Perfect.  No chatter marks.

Are there chatter marks with the Centrotech system?

 

[Mini Me]

I use a normal drill bit in mine.

 

[Cheese]

I don’t have the Centrotech pieces.  I use a conventional coutersink.

I would drill the appropriate size hole and then add the coutersink as a second operation.  The coutersink always had chatter marks.

A friend suggested that I try using the countersink first and then drill the hole.  Perfect.  No chatter marks.

Are there chatter marks with the Centrotech system?

Achieving chatter-less chamfers is largely a matter of matching the tool to the material and also taking into consideration the rpm of the countersink, the diameter of the countersink which directly bears upon the speed at which you turn it, and the amount of edges you have engaged on the work surface.

And then you have the materials being chamfered and the material of the countersink being used. It's a subtle dance that's sometimes difficult and can be very vexing to bridge.

In general, I use a zero flute countersink for wood and aluminum rotating very slowly. The Festool version is nice for wood but its life expectancy is very limited on aluminum because it's HSS.

For aluminum, I prefer to use the KEO cobalt versions of the zero flute because they last a lot longer. Just remember that this style of countersink will not stay sharp as long as a Ford single flute because of the edge cutting profile.

The zero flute slices while the traditional single/multiple flute countersink scrapes.

Good looking countersinking can be an art form onto itself because there is a certain amount of this process that is less dependent upon strict engineering standards and is more centered on tweaking the process with the materials on hand.

 

[festal]

Like [member=44099]Cheese[/member] mentioned above, I started using zero flute countersinks and they work great on wood and aluminum

 

[rst]

As a commercial glazier and locksmith dealing with aluminum doors and framing while wood butchering personally, I’ve use these style countersinks 44 years.  I’ve even resharpend by using a fine grinding stick on the inside of the flute.  Also, this style can be bought with a pilot to insure the counter is concentric with the drill hole

 

[Cheese]

Also, this style can be bought with a pilot to insure the counter is concentric with the drill hole.

This is what RST is referring to, a Weldon single flute with an integral pilot centers itself in the hole. I modified this one to chamfer 20mm dog holes.

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