Changes to TS55 blade kerf widths?

[thender]

Good evening everyone.

Forgive me for cluttering the board with yet another TS55 blade post, but I'm wondering if Festool has changed their blades and/or blade part numbers in the last few months.

The printed catalog that I have (MC 04/08 page 59) lists the TS55 blades as follows:

Universal blade p/n 490516; kerf is listed as 2.2mm
Fine blade p/n 491592; kerf is 2.2mm

The pdf catalog that I downloaded from Festool today (MC 04/08 version 4, page 59)

Universal blade p/n 495376; kerf is listed as 2.5mm
Fine blade p/n 49495377; kerf is 2.5mm

If the online (version 4) catalog is correct, then it would appear that both of these blades have been changed recently. 

This would also appear to correct the blade width mismatch (and it's affect on the guiderail splinterguard) that has generated a lot of discussion on this list.

Anybody know if this is correct?

The TS55 that I bought a month ago has the 491952/2.2mm "fine" blade.  I'm looking for a decent rip blade that would not cut deeper into the splinter strip.  If the new catalog data is correct, then the newer blades would do just that.

-Tom  H.

 

[thender]

FWIW I attened the "grand opening" of the local Woodcraft today, and the Festool folks were there.  These were Festool reps from Indiana, not local folks.

Niether of them were aware of any changes to the TS55 blades.  But both also agreed that the web site info is probably the "latest and greatest" and barring a typo in the descriptions, it appears that the current production "fine" blades are probably 2.5mm (compared to the 2.2mm kerf of the older blades)

He agreed to look into it when he gets home and he'll let me know.  I'll pass along any info he provides.

Judging from the lack of response to my earlier post, there may not be a lot of interest in this...  but if it makes it easier to use mulitple blades with one rail/saw combo, that is good news in my view.

I'm not too thrilled that they sold the old 2.2mm blade with the TS55 that I bought a couple weeks ago, but I guess that is life.

-TH

 

[UCLA Fan]

Hi Tom,

I agree that having all the baldes with the same kerf is potentially good news. However, even if the kerf is the same there may be some difference in the thickness of the blade body and then you would still have some additional cutting of the edge guard. I have had this problem with some Freud blades over the years. One suggestion for avoiding replacing the edge guard prematurely is to shim the blade away from the motor side of the arbor. Some have suggested adding a thin washer not sure what size but you could order some brass shim stock from Lee Valley and tweak your extra blade to just about the exact edge of your existing guide edge. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407

Frank

 

[thender]

Hi Frank-

I'm hoping the Festool folks will be able to provide some insight into all of this.

I'm not really not too keen on shimming the blades.

-TH

 

[UCLA Fan]

HI Tom,

If you do get a new "same kerf" blade I will reluctantly take your old one as a donation. In fact, since you are such a good guy I would even split the shipping cost ;D

NO? Ok then...

Shimming the blade is safe, easy, quick and CHEAP. Works very well on just about any power tool. Keep in mind almost every power grinder uses washers as "shims" to keep all the various blades and accessories a safe distance from the body. And when you consider the abuse a grinder takes, safety on your ts will be of little concern. If you a have a quality caliper you can dial in the fit in just about 10 minutes. If not you can "trial and error it" in less then an hour. Brass is very easy to work with - you can cut it with scissors and it is easy to drill as well. As I said before getting two blades of a different tooth count to hit the cut line without chewing up the edge is a tall order for any manufacturer. Different cut operations require different stresses on a blade. In order to make an effective rip blade that can resist being "flexed" with the grain the body of the blade is often made of a thicker gauge then the body of a crosscut or even a multi-purpose blade. Now add to that the probability that Festool does NOT manufacture their own blades (my assumption perhaps someone here knows for sure?) but OEM's them from somewhere else... well as I said hard to get two blades of a different tooth count to hit the exact same line - even if the kerf is the same. Perhaps Festool will get this perfect but in the mean time try the shims see if they work for you.

Frank

P.S. Tom I live in SOCAL as well (Pasadena area) Where are you located?

 

[Gunther]

Hi everyone,
only today I discovered the same "problem" that is after I replaced all splinterguards!
After I read your thread I studied the German online Catalogue, there is no change in kerf. There remains a difference.

I intend to use shims. I had hoped for a more elegant solution.
Kind regards from Germany
Gunther

 

[Loren Hedahl]

For shims of this thickness, I just use some clear vinyl tape on the side of the blade.  One piece is about 2/1000th thick.

Hopefully this cheap and dirty solution doesn't cause any consternation, but I've done it for years on a contractor saw that had an arbor or arbor washer that wasn't too precise.  Worked like a champ!