Choose Your Weapons...

roblg3

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I'm polling you guys to see who would do what and why...
I have 23 pieces of quarter sawn white oak that are all less than 3" in width, but are different components of a set of reproduction Stickley night tables.  All 23 pieces need 5 sides sanded.
ok, I know how to get the result of fantastic finish...here's my question, how would you sand the 5 sides of these pieces making sure to wind up with a piano finish quickest if you had these sanding machines to choose from?
 

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My go to for raw wood sanding is the Rotex. Rarely, if ever do I sand raw wood in anything but the aggressive mode.

Tom
 
My go to for raw wood is the ETS 125 or ETS 150/3 or a hand plane or sanding block.  If I use the ETS sanders I gang the pieces together to minimize edge rounding.  I would't exclude hand planing since it will give you a very excellent finish with a "sharp" plane iron.
 
thanks guys, thinking more on my real reason for posting, what reason if any would I not choose the belt sander?  would i be worried about longitudinal scratches?  The corners after milling are so sharp it'll cut you like a knife!  Obviously the edges need "breaking" to have a nice finished feel.  I did the legs with the rotex 60 grit to remove the leftovers from my awful table saw...then just went 80, 100, 120, 150 with the random orbit.  I'm sure it could be much faster, but i'm confident I'll achieve my usual virtual swirl free finish with this method.  I'm doing a test drawer front one side the previously mentioned method, the other method is 80, 120, 150 belt sander...i probably only need to go 120, 150 on the belt since all i need to remove are very small roller tracks out of the helical head planer. 
I appreciate the input! keep it coming...
 
Hi Rob

The wood looks quite smooth already so it does not need the aggression of the Rotex. The ETS will give you the best finish for the 4 sides. It looks as though you could even start at 180 followed by 240 and finish with 400. There is no point going beyond 400.

For the fifth side (I assume the top ends that will show) you can do these after glue up with the ETS and the benefit of additional surface support from other components of the frame. Alternatively you might be able to rig a jig to keep the pieces at right angles to the belt sander but you would need to get some fine grit for it first.

Peter
 
My first choice would be a hand plane. My second choice would be to take them to a lumber yard and have them pass them through their drum sander. They'd probably be done in 15 minutes which would cost me $20.
 
I can get parts sanded on a wide belt for $75 an hour at a local cabinet shop. Well worth it if I need consistently flat and uniform parts.
 
Piano finish?  A hand plane is the best choice by far.  And your finished piece will pop beautifully.

A sharp smoother would bring that wood to life better than a sander ever would.

Try it and see what you think!

neil
 
Based on your original post and the tools you HAVE, I personally would use the ETS-150.  Might take longer than the Rotex but the control and the Zen factor would be beneficial.

Hard pad = sharp corners and edges
Standard pad = slightly eased ...
Soft = more eased...

Excited to see you branching out in what you do!

Peter
 
My go to is my Performax 22/44 sander, hard to beat when it comes to removing any tool marks and keeping everything uniform in size.

Years back when I first got the 22/44, it took me forever to change the belts, now, I can change grits in about one minutes time.  If required, I will go down to 80 grit, work my way up through 120/150/180/240, then I will use my ETS-125 working through 150/180/240/280/320/400, and higher at times.....

Otherwise, I will use my ETS-125 same as you do, just a little more time consuming, but always produces excellent results.

Gary
 
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