Clamp for Track system

azfrankp

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Feb 27, 2015
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The attached picture shows a shop made clamp using a modified angle bracket.  It works great for those of us that do not own a joiner.  It produces a straight edge using your table saw on rough cut and bowed lumber.  As shown, They attach to any of the Festool track's slot on each end of the board using a 'T' bolt and hold down knob. Note how the design offers clearance for the table saw's fence system.  I wish Festool would offer an accessory like this using a toggle clamp because I'm tired of making them for my colleagues :)
 

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if I understand the OP correctly, the FESTOOL (or any brand) guide rail is clamped on the uneven edge of a board as the first step to begin getting a straight edge on one side.
I must not understand the problem here.
Why would you not simply use your track saw to create the first straight edge?
Hans
 
I'm afraid I have no idea what the OP is talking about but I am fascinated to understand better. . . Can't work out what is happening in the picture either, but again fascinated. . .you se to have halved your guid rail also?

Cant you have another go at explaining your problem and solution? Maybe a few more pictures of the process. . .

Cheers [big grin]
 
I agree with [member=22067]mrB[/member] I am intrigued with how this works!  I understand the problem is to get a jointed edge - I think - and cannot quite see the path for getting there.  Please, more pictures and further elaboration.

Thanks, DrD
 
As Hans said, this is a solution for people who are used to working with a table saw,
own a Festool track saw, but don't yet understand the track saw's capabilities.

Sure, the guide rail is nearly there as a jig for holding wood at an angle while guiding it along the table saw fence. As long as you're asking Festool to provide a bracket to clamp wood on top of the guide rail you might as well ask them to provide a board to put under the guide rail so it will slide easier on the table saw. Those pesky foam rubber strips are so inconvenient.
 
[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] - I enjoy your sense of humor [big grin]It took me a while to interpret the OP picture: it seems the workpiece is placed ON TOP of the Guide Rail about 3 inches or so from the edge of the splinter guard to back up the pressure of the shop built clamping device.

I'm really curious to hear from the OP why he chose this appraoch as opposed to just using the track saw - this weeks puzzler - almost as much fun as the Click-and-Clack, the tappet brothers (RIP).

Hans
 
All very strange…
If one doesn't have a track saw, there are surely numerous other, cheaper things than a Festool guide rail that one could use for this purpose… such as a piece of wood (cut on the table saw which, in the example shown, one already has) and screwing some simple clamping device to that. Since the 'grip-strip' must surely be removed, this seems a dreadfully extravagant use of resources.
And what supports the other edge of the lumber? Not another guide rail, surely?
Or am I missing something?
 
TSO Products said:
[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] - I enjoy your sense of humor [big grin]It took me a while to interpret the OP picture: it seems the workpiece is placed ON TOP of the Guide Rail about 3 inches or so from the edge of the splinter guard to back up the pressure of the shop built clamping device.

I'm really curious to hear from the OP why he chose this appraoch as opposed to just using the track saw - this weeks puzzler - almost as much fun as the Click-and-Clack, the tappet brothers (RIP).

Hans

Hi Hans, I hope the OP takes it that way but I'm afraid this will be one of those posts I regret making.

The OP is obviously no dummy. If he isn't too offended to reply I expect he'll describe a high production shop that processes a lot of thick raw hardwood on big honking table saws and that a little portable circular saw just can't cut it efficiently. I expect he'll say the Festool guide rail is good because it's only several mm thick so the table saw blade can reach all the way through most of the stuff they rip and they already know how to overcome the pesky foam rubber strips. (Just add sawdust)

Well I re-read the original post and the rig (with only an inch or less of capacity judging by the picture) is described as a replacement for a joiner and the picture shows a thin piece of plywood so...I still don't get it.
 
Do to depth limits of the TS 55 this could be useful to SLR thicker material on a tablesaw. Probably improvising for not having a TS75. This is called thinking outside the box.  [wink]
 
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