Clamp recommendations

bobtskutter

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Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
364
Hello FOG,

I've been using F-clamps on a project.  I'm struggling to grip the handle and turn it with enough force to tighten the clamp fully.

Please can you suggest F clamps which have a swivel handle or a ratchet handle?  That way I wouldn't need excessive finger strength to grip the handle, I could just push it around by leaning on it.

Thanks
Bob
 
Cannot recommend a brand, but I can recommend a trick that might help. There is a YouTube guy (maybe Crossman) who wraps all his clamp handles with multiple layers of the blue medical tape that adheres to itself. I’ve bought some at our drug store. He builds up the handles for a much bigger diameter. Both the increased diameter and the tape texture enhances grip.
 
Thank you for the suggestion.  I do find it easier to grip things that are a larger diameter, so I'll defiantly try what you suggest.

Thanks.
Bob
 
Cosman uses hockey tape, some others heat shrink tubing or bike inner tubes. I sometimes just wear a pair of anti-slip gloves.

 
I'm using supermarket, no name brand F Clamps.

Thank you for the Bessey clamp part details.
Gloves?  Why didn't I think of that, doh!

Regards
Bob
 
+1 on the Hockey tape trick- learned this from Rob Cosman and he has videos on how to apply.  I've used this on clamps, hammers, etc. and cannot believe the difference it makes. 

Regards,
Gerald
 
I would note that thoughtfully engineered clamps frequently have “inadequate” grips intentionally.

If you have ever used one of the bargain clamps from Harbor Freight, you would have experienced the arcing (bowing) of the bar when clamped really tightly. 

The same will happen with more substantial clamps if you find a way to increase the torque on the clamp by modifying the grip. 

The “inadequate” grips are intentional so that the user does not apply more pressure than the clamp was designed for. 

But looking at the grip will not tell all.  Also in consideration is the pitch of the screw thread. 

If you stick with the major players (Bessey or Jorgensen) you will know it is properly sized for the bar strength. 

The bar clamps that I have that mount on black plumbing pipe (3/4” is much better than the 1/2”), have the most pressure.

But note:  It is OK to buy the clamps from Amazon, but do not buy the pipe from Amazon.  The pipe they sell is a much lighter gage and is intended for decorative shelving.  It is not adequate for clamping. 

I like the ones that have legs to stand it up about 2” above the bench surface.  Especially useful for clamping cabinet doors with stub tenons. 

P.S:  I forgot to mention “Pony” clamps.  Also very good.

This is the type of pipe clamp that I prefer:

shopping
 
I recall seeing a shop tip to epoxy a hex head bolt (can't remember if it was a lag bolt or machine bolt) into the bottom of the clamp handle so it can be driven with a socket and ratchet. This would also solve the limited access issue when clamps are used close to each other. I have not tried this myself.
 
If the OP really needs the clamping pressure, then a clamp designed for that pressure will be a better choice than modifying the grips on one that was not designed for that pressure.

All the better manufacturers of bar clamps for woodworking, also produce bar clamps for welding.  The welding clamps are designed to exert far more pressure.

They have a nice video, but I have been unable to link it.  It is within the website.
https://ponyjorgensen.com/product/jorgensen-drop-forged-heavy-duty-bar-clamp/

 
I'm not trying to over tighten the clamps.  I find trying to hold the relatively small handle on an F Clamp is difficult and eventually causes me problems with my fingers.  I thought using clamps with swivel handles would be a good idea.  I've seen some with ratchet handles at 90degrees to the screw thread, which also look easy to use.

I find G Clamps with T style handles easy to use, and they don't cause me finger problems.

Thanks
Bob
 
Or wear leather driving gloves or baseball batting gloves.  They will provide additional friction, and will be kinder to your hands.
 
I used Rob Cosman's hockey tape trick on every clamp I own and a bunch of handled tools, too. Amazing difference. Cheap, easy and kinda fun. I had a one-piece Japanese marking knife I could never use comfortably until I Cosmanized it.
 
The full-sized K-Body clamps from Bessey have a 5mm hex key pocket fixed into the handles. It very nice and works exceptionally well when your clamps are in awkward positions or when the handles are too close together to get a good grip.
Irwin does it too at least with the C-clamp variety of Vice-Grips. This is an idea I had 30+ years ago, when working in a bodyshop. I had dozens of them and it was quite a mess to put them away without closing them, clamped tight, otherwise they pop open and get tangled together. Hand-screwing them back in, at the end of each use, got old, so I welded a flange nut on the knob. That way, I could screw them in with a cordless drill....in seconds.
Irwin didn't get around to this until I didn't care anymore. I only have 2 of them now and don't really use them much.
 
You know that Packard does bring up a very viable issue, putting too much tape on the clamp handles and cranking them until they distort the clamp is not a good thing.
I've achieved success in bringing clamps to their knees and it's not pretty.  [smile] The clamps survive, the wood does not.

I get that the clamps can sometimes become difficult to tighten thoroughly but use caution when trying to just crank the heck out of them. In some cases...less is more.

The larger issue for me is when I have many clamps close together and I can't get my hand fully around the handle of the clamp. I'm then forced to tighten the clamp with a few fingers which doesn't work well.
 
Cheese said:
You know that Packard does bring up a very viable issue, putting too much tape on the clamp handles and cranking them until they distort the clamp is not a good thing.
I've achieved success in bringing clamps to their knees and it's not pretty.  [smile] The clamps survive, the wood does not.

I get that the clamps can sometimes become difficult to tighten thoroughly but use caution when trying to just crank the heck out of them. In some cases...less is more.

The larger issue for me is when I have many clamps close together and I can't get my hand fully around the handle of the clamp. I'm then forced to tighten the clamp with a few fingers which doesn't work well.

I had a similar situation recently.  However, I was able to alternate the clamps so that I ended up with handles next to bars next to handles, etc.  You can’t always do that however, but when feasible it works pretty well.

The old wet-rag-and-household-iron trick works pretty well in removing indentations from clamping pressure.  Wet the rag and place it over the indentation. With the iron set on “cotton” (high heat), press on the area where the indentation is until the fabric is nearly dry. 

This can raise the grain, but it usually sands down quickly.  I get fully restored surface about 99% of the time.  I think this is general knowledge, though I have no idea where I learned about it.
 
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