Clamping rails for cutting plywood on the ground

OhNoMrBill

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I searched for this, but could not a fitting post to cover it.

What do you all do to keep the 55in (1400) rail from moving when breaking down plywood on the ground. I have the plywood on 1 inch foam, so there is no way to use the typical clamps. If I do long cuts with rails joined, there is no issue. But the single rail will walk as the cut is made.

My rails are practically brand new and have been more slippery than expected.
 
Hi, the  fs rapid clamp might work however it is about 1.25, the pistol grip rotates.
 
Hi, it works great,I also use it with a rail square on one end and the pistol grip on the other.guy
 
I position the rail with the saw on the rail (TS75 so it's pretty heavy).  The weight of the saw helps hold the rail down.  I then use one hand to press the rail down and slide the saw to the start of the cut.  It works with small sheets on the bench with a scrap sheet underneath as a cutting surface.

I also use scrap pieces to rest the rail on as the rail hangs off the edge of the board.

regards
bob
 
I do similar every so often, i lay the rail edge to the cut line, and then clamp a thin board on the other side that stops the rail from moving to the left while cutting the sheet. Just apply a bit of pressure to the left to keep it cutting straight.
 
jeffinsgf said:
How about building a set of saw horses and getting off your knees? When you reach your 60s, your body will thank you.
But that's how you get ironknee [big grin]
 
You cut on the ground?  Wouldn’t the blade make contact with the concrete or black top surface?

I lay a couple of 2 x 4s on the ground to make those cuts (only once—that is why God invented saw horses).
 
My reply is in no way helpful for the original question asker.  Thankfully my old Festool rails stay in place very well even without clamps.  I am able to lay the rail on a piece of plywood and make a cut and the rail does not move during the cut.

But, in reply to all of those who say cutting on the ground is bad and use sawhorses.  I use two big (3x6) sheets of styrofoam as my underlayment beneath the plywood being cut.  I lay the styrofoam on the floor of the garage.  Concrete floor.  And I get down on my knees and make the cuts.  Thankfully I am not old or fat and have good mobility and dexterity.  Setting up sawhorses would involve setting up two or three or four sawhorses.  My sawhorses are heavy.  They have a 3 foot 2x8 on top.  But easy to setup.  Then I would have to wrangle a 4x8 sheet of plywood on top of the sawhorses.  Then put the styrofoam backers on top of the 4x8 plywood sheet.  Then make the cut.  Maybe if I was making 50 cuts a day, that would make sense to go to all that effort.  But for one or two or three cuts, its much easier to just crawl around on the floor.
 
In general, the only time I ever clamp my rails is when doing a bevel cut. The foam grips hold the rail in place from the force of pushing downward on the saw itself, but if your plywood is pretty warped, it may not make enough contact.
I cut all kinds of things, from HPL sheets, solid surface, and acrylic, as well as wood sheet products successfully, with nothing but the rail.
A rail square may give you enough additional friction to keep the rail still.
 
Packard, I am not sure which poster your question was aimed. I stated that I use foam insulation under the plywood.  I would cry if I was hitting the festool blade on concrete.

It sounds like I need to try more pressure to keep the rail from moving or try the trigger clamp.

-B
 
I sometimes put a heavy object on the rail at the end if the ply is warped and the rail pivots.  It does mean stopping and starting unfortunately as you move weights around.  I've also resorted to blue-tape if I worry about it shifting.  Just tape both edges.  You'll cut the splinter side, but that's fine.
 
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