Advice for floor -- easy to clean, easy on the knees?

[NewWoodWorkerVA]

Moving my 1 car garage workshop into the "basement" which is currently a theater room.  Going to get rid of the beautiful high-pile, thick-pad carpet since that room got little use.  The back wall is basement with probably 8 feet of earth; the side walls slope and the front wall is ground level with the garage (house is built on a slope).

I've done a lot of research here and on YouTube on flooring options.  I'm looking for something that will be 1/ easy to walk/stand on for hours and 2/ easy to keep clean.  House was built in 2022 in Virginia and I assume has whatever barrier before the concrete to stop seepage.  Current carpet is installed on a moisture barrier but the HVAC room is raw concert and I've never noticed condensation. 

I was looking at the DriCore R+ tiles; they look nice (After polyurethane and sanding) and easy to install.  But not sure I need their moisture barrier given my basement.  Also looking at tractor supply 1/2 inch 4'x6' horse stall mats.  Would be about the same price per sq ft (a bit cheaper for mats since I'd cover fewer sq ft).

I've considered epoxy (easier to clean up but would not be soft at all).

I saw a post saying to put down Advantach subfloor; that could be even easier to install than the DriCore.  Would it be as comfortable?  I'm ok with a "shop looking" floor i.e. I don't need pretty LVP; not opposed to it, but I think it would be hard to protect it from moving equipment around (though I wouldn't be moving it much since I'll have a lot of space with this new room).

Any thing else I should consider?  For those with DriCore, are you happy with the "softness"?  Any concerns with heavy equipment (Jointer with 3 points of contact, table saw, bandsaw) dimpling the wood?

 

[dicktill]

Also looking at tractor supply 1/2 inch 4'x6' horse stall mats.  Would be about the same price per sq ft (a bit cheaper for mats since I'd cover fewer sq ft).

I have the horse stall mats (3/4" thick) in my basement/garage and overall love them. They are heavy and a pain to move; do buy a couple of the mat grippers that TSC also has. I have a big garage door, so getting them in wasn't too bad, but if you have to lug them down the stairs, good luck. Also, it is near impossible to not have some small gaps between the mats, but a vacuum will suck up the dirt from there. Don't have any problem with any machinery on these except for my very heavy DoAll metal bandsaw on four small casters.

P.S.: Didn't buy the mats themselves from TSC.

 

[Packard]

I walked into the local Tractor Supply for the first time last week.  By the front door they had a stack of horse stall mats on sale.  Not the 3/4” stuff I’ve bought in the past, maybe 5/8”?

I agree with everyone that the horse stall mats are excellent, but not necessarily easy on the knees.  I think they are made from recycled car tires, and are very dense, a bit challenging to cut, and heavy.

If your knees get tender, then a kneeling pad or slip-on knee pads are a better way around it.

The horse stall mats are very dense, heavy and durable.

Save on shipping if you have a store near you.

They sell both the 3/4” thick stuff and the thinner stuff.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/catalog/horse-stall-mats?isIntSrch=written&srch=Horse Stall Mats

 

[NewWoodWorkerVA]

Thank you.  By "Easy on the knees" I don't mean kneeling but rather standing -- and easy on the knees, back, feet etc.  I just checked -- shipping is $100/mat so I'll definitely be getting a truck or a van and driving to pick these up!  I may carve out a section for cabinets, miter station etc and then lay these down over the rest of the floor and store jointer, bandsaw, table saw directly on top of the mats.  Or do you all cut sections of the mats for where tools sit?

 

[Packard]

You need something with some bounce to ease your back or knees.  A subfloor sitting on 1” x 2” stringers will give more bounce than the horse stall mats.

A search shows many build options.  You do have to place your machinery first.

“Bad backs” gets more results than “bad knees”, but the objective is the same.

I think the general term is “sleeper floor”.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=f83da9233b038cd4&q=workshop+subfloor+for+bad+backs&udm=2&fbs=ABzOT_CWdhQLP1FcmU5B0fn3xuWp5u5rQsC2YJafWTbyNSy6G3Vsi155b_IyTtSTnvQaXi9bVF0QwnUANfqLhtMOUWqNZbdCO3cRykU7MfqMqcLuSml_XWkwXAsVj4VObnEAIoqJJweVfiWZ9Gx8nfzXw0kOdOa0DQMjMPIzKgmt7Icwj8rJADvlNa-aOjBST85xaWTopocGsEezdvkHPEIIo7CVIMegGw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjysuXCnbqLAxUgD1kFHRYrCicQtKgLegQIDxAB&biw=980&bih=617&dpr=2

 

[dicktill]

Thank you.  By "Easy on the knees" I don't mean kneeling but rather standing -- and easy on the knees, back, feet etc.  I just checked -- shipping is $100/mat so I'll definitely be getting a truck or a van and driving to pick these up!  I may carve out a section for cabinets, miter station etc and then lay these down over the rest of the floor and store jointer, bandsaw, table saw directly on top of the mats.  Or do you all cut sections of the mats for where tools sit?

The horse stall mats are definitely "easier to stand on" than a concrete floor and you don't have to pre-position your tools. They are not cushiony (is that a word?) but far better than nothing. Also, if you drop something on them like a glass jar, a lot less likely to break.

 

[peter halle]

The house I moved into a few years has the interlocking plastic tiles that you can park a car on.  My feet don’t bother me, the don ‘t get as cold either.  Bonus points for cleanup and tool protection if you drop one.

Peter

 

[Cheese]

My only addition to this discussion is to NOT purchase mats that have holes in them...a real PITA. You can't clean them up with a leaf blower so you're forced to vacuum each hole separately or remove the mat, vacuum and then replace the mat.  [sad]

FWIW...those 3/4" thick horse mats from Tractor Supply weigh 95# each.

 

[rvieceli]

If I may make another suggestion, there is a world of difference between a a stall mat designed for a 1000 pound horse and a real anti fatigue mat for people. Stall mats give some cushion but not much. more for keeping the animal from slipping on slick concrete.

Real anti fatigue mats provide a lot of cushion and really help on the knees and feet.

Take a look at how you work. It is probably not necessary to cover your entire floor with mats. Figure out the spots where you will stand a lot and drop a mat there. I have one in front of my outfeed/assembly/sanding table. One in front of the infeed side of the table saw and the bandsaw. One in front of the drill press etc.

Ron

 

[kevinculle]

I have my entire shop (except for under the tools) floor covered in the 1/2" black 2' x 2' interlocking foam matting.  I get mine from Sam's Club, but they are widely available.  They run about $0.60 per square foot in the 144 square foot package of 36.  They just get vacuumed when I clean the shop, and they've held up well...the oldest are probably in the ballpark of 20 years old or more.  My 72-year-old knees wouldn't make 2 hours on bare concrete.

 

[SoonerFan]

My shop has an epoxy covered concrete that makes it super easy to clean but not good for joints/fatigue. To accommodate that I have multiple anti-fatigue mats strategically placed where I stand a lot (table saw, MFT, assembly table, etc.) I then move a mat in front of the jointer, planner, drum sander on milling days. Mats are light and very easy to move. It’s not ideal but for me it works and is a decent trade off between comfort and ease of cleaning.

I also purchased a good pair of wedge soled work boots which help a bunch.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

The most comfortable Shop floors I've had the opportunity to work on are 4x8 1" thick AdvanTech sheets.
https://www.huberwood.com/advantech/subflooring

-- Sheets are installed directly over the concrete floor
-- Sheets around the permitter of the room are pinned to the concrete, with the sheets in the field left to float
-- AdvanTech is designed for some degree of exterior exposure, so it's pretty tolerant of direct contact with dry, interior concrete surfaces that don't have a history of condensation or other moisture issues
-- The 4x8 sheets serve to even out the floor surface, bridging over minor dips
-- The 1" thickness easily accommodates heavy machinery
-- Since the field is floating, it has a very slight degree of give. Not so much that it feels spongy, but enough that you feel less weary at the end of the day
-- While not inexpensive, the material is widely available from most lumber yards, is reversible, and/or easy to renew/replace
-- Since it's a wood floor, you can drive screws into it for trammel work, temporarily fastening jigs/fixtures, etc...
-- I'd just leave the material raw. If you absolutely feel compelled to apply some kind of finish, I'd suggest Rubio or one of the other plant-oil based products.
-- Only major downside is that the sheets are heavy, you'll want some help to handle/install...

 

[twistsol1]

My old shop was epoxy over concrete with a number of anti fatigue mats, and sore back and knees at the end of the day. The mats are great for standing at a workstation, but you still have to walk around your shop and that takes its toll.

My current shop has laminate flooring with a rubber backing on it installed on a poly vapor barrier over concrete. In 5 years, there is one gouge near my MFT and I have no idea where that came from. It is comfortable, looks decent, is easy to clean, and was easy to install. The heaviest thing I've rolled across it is my hardware cabinet which weighed 2108 pounds when the movers had it on their truck's lift. No damage to the floors

It was a little over a buck a square foot and if we I have to replace it in 10 years, I won't feel bad about it.

 

[NewWoodWorkerVA]

My old shop was epoxy over concrete with a number of anti fatigue mats, and sore back and knees at the end of the day. The mats are great for standing at a workstation, but you still have to walk around your shop and that takes its toll.

My current shop has laminate flooring with a rubber backing on it installed on a poly vapor barrier over concrete. In 5 years, there is one gouge near my MFT and I have no idea where that came from. It is comfortable, looks decent, is easy to clean, and was easy to install. The heaviest thing I've rolled across it is my hardware cabinet which weighed 2108 pounds when the movers had it on their truck's lift. No damage to the floors

It was a little over a buck a square foot and if we I have to replace it in 10 years, I won't feel bad about it.

I'll admit I do kind of want my shop to look nice.  Even though it is a shop.  How would you rate the "laminate with rubber backing" from a "underfoot" perspective?  Knees and back ok?  Any thoughts on the "luxury" vinyl plank, or is Laminate the way to go for aesthetics?

 

[Cheese]

I'll admit I do kind of want my shop to look nice.  Even though it is a shop. 

Nothing wrong with pretty...we buy pretty houses...we marry pretty wives...we purchase pretty cars...and we have pretty children.

And above all we own pretty tools.  [big grin]

 

[twistsol1]

I'll admit I do kind of want my shop to look nice.  Even though it is a shop.  How would you rate the "laminate with rubber backing" from a "underfoot" perspective?  Knees and back ok?  Any thoughts on the "luxury" vinyl plank, or is Laminate the way to go for aesthetics?

Since it is an attached underlayment for a floating floor, it provides just enough give that my knees and back are still functioning after a day in the shop. I do still have anti fatigue mats at the tablesaw, MFT, Kapex, and my router table.

We have LVP on the main floor of the house and it seems less forgiving than the shop floor, but I rarely wear shoes on the main floor of the house and always wear shoes in the shop. I guess the answer to this one is that I have no relevant information  [embarassed]

 

[thudchkr]

I have Dri-Core installed in my shop everywhere except for an area in front of the overhead door that allows a vehicle to drive in and part at.  I also have a floor drain in that area.  It has held up well so far, about 4-1/2 years old at this point.  I don't notice the aches and pains i would get before, in my old shop, when I was standing/working on bare concrete.  I do have a few mats, however, in areas where I spend a lot of time standing. 

I have placed my heavier equipment on custom sized pallets that I move around with a pallet jack, and the Dri-Core has no problem accommodating that.  None of my equipment would exceed 1,000 lbs though. 

I picked up some inexpensive vinyl tile that I plan to lay down atop the Dri-Core to give the OSB surface some additional protection against the snow and water that gets tracked in, but haven't made the time to get it installed yet.  A tiny bit of flaking has occurred in front of one of my entry doors, likely caused by the mud and water tracked in there.

I originally installed the Dri-Core after having a water issue across the floor of the shop during a spring melt, but haven't encountered that issue again after having reworked the drainage outside the building.  \

For my purposes, I would buy and install it again.

 

[NewWoodWorkerVA]

I ended up going with some laminate that was on sale.  I won’t cry too hard if it gets damaged but it does look great at the moment.  It had a built in pad and the floor feels much better than concrete.  So far so good (a few days in).