I know this has been talked about before but the search doesn't like (1) I want to buy a class 1 tape. Amazon only has 2 and only 1 with both imperial and metric scales. Its the Advent brand never heard or used it plus its has a feb 15-march 3 ship time... Does anyone have input on best one. There doesnt seem to be very many and when I do a seach on amazon or google they like to give me a bunch of non class 1 tapes to weed through. I dont "need" a long one 12' will work fine but longer is OK too along with metric and imperial scales is a must. Otherwise Im open to whatever. Possibly another source too with a shorter lead time would be great.
Class (1) one tape measure
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squall_line
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What about Acme Tools? They carry Stabila, Tajima, etc.
Sparktrician
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You might also try The Tape Store, but be aware that they're in the UK.
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Axminster has them in stock. But yeah $33 for shipping does take them out of the running.
I couldn't find any information on Starrett tapes as far as accuracy class. It seems they sell three different lines, Global, Exact, and Exact+. But none of them give you the class or state the accuracy anywhere I could find which is unusual for Starrett.
I couldn't find any information on Starrett tapes as far as accuracy class. It seems they sell three different lines, Global, Exact, and Exact+. But none of them give you the class or state the accuracy anywhere I could find which is unusual for Starrett.
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MikeGE
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I use only Hultafors Class I tape measures. Here is one on Amazon that has metric and imperial, and is in stock:
https://www.amazon.com/Hultafors-TM8ME-Chrome-Tri-Matic-Pocket/dp/B08DL6L76D/
https://www.amazon.com/Hultafors-TM8ME-Chrome-Tri-Matic-Pocket/dp/B08DL6L76D/
Good question, My primary use is checking/setting steps on the cnc so I can start or zero it at 1" so the hook wont mater at that point. I used my Fat Max but want to verify with a class 1 tape just to make sure. My other plan is to use it to verify or check other tapes so when checking other tapes the hook will come into play. I dont plan on carrying it as my main tape, My plan is it will be more like my TSO MTR and only come out once in awhile when I need to check something with greater tolerances over longer distance than my calipers, dial indicators etc.
Found this info on the Tapestore site
Class 1 Tape Measures - EC Class I
By far the most important factor to take into consideration when buying a tape measures is, of course, accuracy! For some people, all that’s really required is a ballpark idea as to how long/wide an object or space is. For others, however, the difference of just a single millimetre is incredibly important.
Many of the UK’s major tape measure manufacturers produce highly accurate tapes but then fail to promote the fact. With different levels of accuracy being important to different trades and different users, we find that odd! As a result we’ve made a really big deal of tape measure accuracy and have dedicated entire sections to the two most important standards of tape measure accuracy in Europe; EC Class 1 and EC Class 2. It goes without saying that Class I is the most accurate!
The accuracy of a tape measure is not necessarily to do with the quality of the mechanism or the quality control processes found in the factory where it’s made. More often than not it’s to do with how precisely the graduations are printed onto the blade. Conventional printing methods are generally more than adequate for a Class 2 tape but, for a Class 1 tape, precision, ultra-fine inkjet printing is frequently required in order to achieve a level of accuracy that cannot be beaten in a commercially available tape.
Sounds like class 1 has more to do with the markings not so much the end.
Class 1 Tape Measures - EC Class I
By far the most important factor to take into consideration when buying a tape measures is, of course, accuracy! For some people, all that’s really required is a ballpark idea as to how long/wide an object or space is. For others, however, the difference of just a single millimetre is incredibly important.
Many of the UK’s major tape measure manufacturers produce highly accurate tapes but then fail to promote the fact. With different levels of accuracy being important to different trades and different users, we find that odd! As a result we’ve made a really big deal of tape measure accuracy and have dedicated entire sections to the two most important standards of tape measure accuracy in Europe; EC Class 1 and EC Class 2. It goes without saying that Class I is the most accurate!
The accuracy of a tape measure is not necessarily to do with the quality of the mechanism or the quality control processes found in the factory where it’s made. More often than not it’s to do with how precisely the graduations are printed onto the blade. Conventional printing methods are generally more than adequate for a Class 2 tape but, for a Class 1 tape, precision, ultra-fine inkjet printing is frequently required in order to achieve a level of accuracy that cannot be beaten in a commercially available tape.
Sounds like class 1 has more to do with the markings not so much the end.
MikeGE
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4nthony said:
The accuracy includes the movement in the hook.
I keep a generic 8-meter tape measure in my truck in case I need to make a rough measurement. For accuracy, I have the Class I Hultafors 8-meter tape measure and two BMI Class II folding rules. I threw out all of the other tapes and folding rules.
squall_line
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In case anyone hasn't stumbled across this article already in their searches on this topic:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/cnc/precision-instruments-woodworkers-part-two-rules-tapes/
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/cnc/precision-instruments-woodworkers-part-two-rules-tapes/
No, the problem is over a large distance like a 8' cnc a smaller machine yea maybe. The issue is I can dial in the steps using a dial indicator over 1" and its perfect but you are only testing 1" distance on a 1" section of R&P. So, if I zero at one end and then travel the full length, by the time I get to the other end its off considerably because you are compounding any error 96 times. If you use the full length of travel or close to it you are dividing any errors by the travel distance but then are at the mercy of your tape and eyeball, luckily I can get within a probably a few thousands by eye. So, it really comes down to the tape. Even if my eye is off .010 divide over the length of the bed we are talking fractions of a thousandth.
My process is I hook my tape and zero the cnc on 1" using a very fine V bit. Then run it 95" and check. Even using the the steps given to me by the manufacturer of the the rack and pinon when I checked it was .040" over according to my fat max and eye ball. So I re calculated the steps and its as close to perfect as my eyes can read on the tape over the 95" distance. I cut a small part that was 2.94 and my starrett caliper said 2.94 so Im happy but figured while I was messing around with it I might as well get a class 1 tape. So Im not in a urgent situation but I like to get my stuff dialed in the best I can so will retest when the class 1 arrives
My process is I hook my tape and zero the cnc on 1" using a very fine V bit. Then run it 95" and check. Even using the the steps given to me by the manufacturer of the the rack and pinon when I checked it was .040" over according to my fat max and eye ball. So I re calculated the steps and its as close to perfect as my eyes can read on the tape over the 95" distance. I cut a small part that was 2.94 and my starrett caliper said 2.94 so Im happy but figured while I was messing around with it I might as well get a class 1 tape. So Im not in a urgent situation but I like to get my stuff dialed in the best I can so will retest when the class 1 arrives
mino
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First, go look at Fisco. These are UK-made and they are an OEM for many companies (I have a Slovak Kinex sticker version...).
Specifically I would go for their Tri-Matic: https://www.fisco.co.uk/tri-matic.html
But they have many very good models.
That said, if you need accuracy, you need to remember Class DOES NOT tell you how accurate the measure you buy is.
Unless you own a calibrated ruler, you need to have your measure calibrated to KNOW how accurate it really is.
E.g. I got lucky and my 5 meter Class 1 which I had calibrated is accurate to 0.1mm up to 2 meters and upt to 0.2mm up to the end.
But I have another Class 1 rule which still falls under the max allowance (0.6mm over 5m) but is 0.4 off at 2 meters and about 0.3 off over 5 meters. The problem with that one is not so much that it less accurate, but that its "inaccuracy" is inconsistent across the length.
This is why a tape measure calibration report will actually include multiple measurements. Report for my Tri-matic had 15 measurements. After each 200 millimeters.
So best advice is, go get a good measure, but even more important: Get it calibrated. At least once when you buy and if you treat it well, it will stay accurate for 5 years plus. At which point you can buy another one calibrated ... It costs about €15 over here, prolly more in the UK, but is well worth it.
Specifically I would go for their Tri-Matic: https://www.fisco.co.uk/tri-matic.html
But they have many very good models.
That said, if you need accuracy, you need to remember Class DOES NOT tell you how accurate the measure you buy is.
Unless you own a calibrated ruler, you need to have your measure calibrated to KNOW how accurate it really is.
E.g. I got lucky and my 5 meter Class 1 which I had calibrated is accurate to 0.1mm up to 2 meters and upt to 0.2mm up to the end.
But I have another Class 1 rule which still falls under the max allowance (0.6mm over 5m) but is 0.4 off at 2 meters and about 0.3 off over 5 meters. The problem with that one is not so much that it less accurate, but that its "inaccuracy" is inconsistent across the length.
This is why a tape measure calibration report will actually include multiple measurements. Report for my Tri-matic had 15 measurements. After each 200 millimeters.
So best advice is, go get a good measure, but even more important: Get it calibrated. At least once when you buy and if you treat it well, it will stay accurate for 5 years plus. At which point you can buy another one calibrated ... It costs about €15 over here, prolly more in the UK, but is well worth it.
mino
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Sorry I missed this.afish said:
For that use you do not really want an accurate tape measurte. You want an engineer's ruler like this:
https://shop.kinexmeasuring.com/cs/meritko-bez-povrchove-upravy-1000-mm-s-presahem-kinex-din-866-a-p9002714c6c241/?filter=38&sort=p.price&order=asc&limit=100
These are way more accurate at a given cost and also age much better.
One thing to keep in mind when using such tools becomes to have the right temperature in the room. They are calibrated at 20C and even at 30C the dilatation difference from temperature can be bigger than the accuracy for the DIN 866/A ones ...
The links are for a czech shop of a slovak company, but they provide a simplified PDF with the norms against which these things are made which is great to give you a reference.
E.g. the norms for a tape measure are way less strict, soa "Class I" tape measure is nowhere as accurate comparer to a "Class I" ruler (sorry linking czech version but the EN version does not have the PDF links):
The above DIN866 /A is up to 0.04 mm accurate at 1 meter length while the 866/B one would be 0.1mm /100um/ at 1 meter.
The tape measure at Class I (the highest) is only +/-0.4 mm at 3 meters and shorter points are not defined in the standard.
https://shop.kinexmeasuring.com/cs/svinovaci-metr-kinex-5m-tr-presnosti-1-p9002619c26c162/
English links to same for terminology help:
https://shop.kinexmeasuring.com/en/steel-ruler-with-mm-graduation-kinex-1000-mm-din-866-a-p9002714c6c241/
https://shop.kinexmeasuring.com/en/tape-measure-kinex-accuracy-class-1-5m-p9002619c26c162/
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I don't believe you can truly 'calibrate' a tape measure. It's only a hunk of metal with no moving parts. There is nothing to adjust to perform any sort of calibration or correction if out of spec. You get what you get. The junkers go in the trash (or downgraded) and the good ones get sold.
