Cleaning cast aluminum tables and lubrication questions?

[festal]

Hello all.  Got my latest acquisition.  Its a Kity 1637 or 637 (not sure if it has a 1 or not).  Its a 10" Jointer/Planer.  I always clean up my newly aquired tools and tune them if needed.  I'm use to dealing with cast iron but this one is cast aluminum. 
For cast iron clean up i use T9 rust remover for cleanup and follow up with T9 lubrication spray. 
What's a good solution to clean and lubricate cast aluminum as it doesn't rust so T9 is not needed and I'm not sure if its safe to use or not.

Also I noticed that the planer table is lifted on 4 threaded rods driven by what looks to be bicycle chain.  Whats a good way to lubricate and grease those?  They are inside the planing side exposed to wood chips. 

I have this greasehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WK8VV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and thinking of putting it on the threaded rods for the planer table as well as jointer table threaded rods.  Is that ok to use?

Whats a good grease to use chain?

Not much info on these Kity models so if anyone has experience with these please share your thoughts?

Thank you

 

 

[guybo]

white lithium grease, I checked they make a hex mandrel for the scotch brite roloc disc for cleaning alu.If you dont have a die grinder,nice machine. you need both the backing pad and the disc.

 

[festal]

white lithium grease, I checked they make a hex mandrel for the scotch brite roloc disc for cleaning alu.If you dont have a die grinder,nice machine. you need both the backing pad and the disc.

Thank you. I believe i do have white lithuim grease. So that goes on the threaded rods and chain?

I do have a die grinder (M12 right angle)  do you have a link to what I need to get?

 

[pixelated]

I wouldn't use grease on the chain, it's likely too thick. There are a zillian specialty chain lubes for bicycles and motorcycles, I would think one of the "dry" wax-type lubes would work well, and resist getting gunked up with sawdust. Your local bike shop should have lots of choices.
If you don't want to use a specialty lube, Tri-flow works well, and stays fairly clean. Wipe the chain down after applying the lube, whatever is on the outer plates isn't contributing to lubricating the moving parts and will just collect dust. I like the liquid, drip bottle version of Tri-Flow, but it also comes in an aerosol can.

 

[woodwise]

If you are using Boeshield T-9 (Boeshield)it is a good solution for protecting aluminum. Produced by the Boeing company, it is designed to work with aluminum. It is also very effective for preventing rust on bicycle chains. 

Good Luck!

 

[festal]

If you are using Boeshield T-9 (Boeshield)it is a good solution for protecting aluminum. Produced by the Boeing company, it is designed to work with aluminum. It is also very effective for preventing rust on bicycle chains. 

Good Luck!

Yep I use T9 rust remover/cleaner and T9 Lubricant.  I think T9 also makes bycicle chain lube

 

[festal]

I wouldn't use grease on the chain, it's likely too thick. There are a zillian specialty chain lubes for bicycles and motorcycles, I would think one of the "dry" wax-type lubes would work well, and resist getting gunked up with sawdust. Your local bike shop should have lots of choices.
If you don't want to use a specialty lube, Tri-flow works well, and stays fairly clean. Wipe the chain down after applying the lube, whatever is on the outer plates isn't contributing to lubricating the moving parts and will just collect dust. I like the liquid, drip bottle version of Tri-Flow, but it also comes in an aerosol can.

Thank you.  I'll check it out.  There is a bike shop near by

 

[Cheese]

I also wouldn't use grease on the chain, I'd use a lubricant that you can spray on and it then dries such as Boeshield or Dynaglide Plus. The grease will only attract saw dust.

The light gray Scotch Brite pads 7448, are the equivalent of 600-1000 grit paper.

 

[rvieceli]

Plus one on no wet lube. Here are a couple of dry lubricant sprays that I use.

Both go one as a black film ( so you can see where it is) dries as a film adhered to the metal.

Both are very slippery but need to be reapplied from time to time. Won’t get gummed up with sawdust though

Ron

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[guybo]

Hi, while it is true that grease give its oil up slower the tension screw and any gearing needs grease bike and motorcycles run in a open and not closed system as the kity does and since the only real way to lube is with a chain oiler bath or drip or brush lubing it with grease then a good wipe will force some lube between the rollers,btw when people say they see oil from their ts or kapex you now know why,the parfin has given up its oil.Plus i think the adjustment will be frequent.

 

[festal]

Thank you all.  So if i understand correctly, grease goes on sprockets, gears and dry lube goes on the chain?

 

[festal]

Even got original paperwork with the kity. Looks like it’s from 1993

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[Cheese]

Thank you all.  So if i understand correctly, grease goes on sprockets, gears and dry lube goes on the chain?

For motorcycles, bicycles and industrial machines oiling a chain makes a lot of sense, also because of the torque/power loads and the chain speeds that are used oil is actually mandatory.

In your case the chain & sprockets simply lift the planer table so there are no large torque loads and the chain speed is tortoise like in reality. I'd just stick with the dry treatment and see how that works for you. If you do want to go the grease route I'd still try the dry method first because once you go the grease route and if you don't like it, the cleanup is going to be killer as the chain will probably need to be removed for proper cleaning.

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

I recall when a fellow in Missouri (Jeff something) was importing both the K-5 small combo machine and then the larger stand-alone machines, all with cast aluminum tables. I liked the idea because the machines were lighter and easier to move around. Inca machinery originally had cast aluminum/alloy tables also.
I bought a K-5, which I still have, along with lots of accessories; but it's been in storage now for quite a few years. Its main use to me now would be for the 6 inch jointer/planer, not the shaper, table saw, or mortiser.

Jeff sold cans of wax with moly for making the table surface nice and slippery.

I also have an old Inca jointer/planer that is in rough shape; have intended to take it to Eagle Machinery in Pasadena to see what they can do for it, but haven't done that.

 

[festal]

Got the back cover off. Looks to be in good shape

So looks like the planer table only has threaded rods inside, chain that drives the table up and down is below the sheet metal so not exposed
I’ll do dry ptfe spray on the rods

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[Cheese]

Well that's a good photo...it certainly helps to make things a lot more clear. There appears to be a small amount of grease on the chain as evidenced by the black marks on the sprocket teeth. I'd feel the sprocket teeth with my fingers to verify that condition. If so, then you could apply an additional small amount of grease to the chain or just remove the chain, clean it and the sprockets and start over. There's really no wrong way or right way to proceed after seeing the photo. Photos are the key...

I also noticed you have the original owners manual, what does it suggest you use for a lubrication regimen and what type of lubricant ?

 

[festal]

Well that's a good photo...it certainly helps to make things a lot more clear. There appears to be a small amount of grease on the chain as evidenced by the black marks on the sprocket teeth. I'd feel the sprocket teeth with my fingers to verify that condition. If so, then you could apply an additional small amount of grease to the chain or just remove the chain, clean it and the sprockets and start over. There's really no wrong way or right way to proceed after seeing the photo. Photos are the key...

I also noticed you have the original owners manual, what does it suggest you use for a lubrication regimen and what type of lubricant ?

Checked the manual.  Nothing in there about lubrication regimen that i could find.  In case anyone is interested here is a pdf version I just created
Kity 637 Manual

 

[jeffinsgf]

Brings back some memories.

Hope the blade guard and jointer fence are in a box somewhere...I don't see them in any of the pictures.

That is a very good planer in exceptional condition for its age. Other than a couple scratches in the jointer tables, it looks like its seen very little action.