Cleaning spray equipment after small jobs question

[VictorL]

Hello,

So far I used wipe on, brush, roller methods for applying  solvent base varnishes. I would like to start using HVLP gun. I can stick with water based products, but what about shellac and some other products. Most of my projects require to spay small quantities of varnish. Cleaning up equipment after spraying a couple cabinet doors take much more time and solvent than actual work. I'm wondering if there are ways to reduce cleaning time and reduce usage/wasting solvent?  How can I more effectively clean up spray gun and jar after use? 

Thank you,
VictorL

 

[otis04]

I just close the nozzle down tight and wipe off the end.  The gun is air tight so the finish does not set up in the gun.  This is the main reason I like the system, I can spray a small job in a few minutes and go do something else until it is time for another coat.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Like Otis said for between coats; for a water-based finish, I usually wrap the nozzle in a damp cloth, too, to ensure no crud firms up that'll end up in the product.

If you are wanting to reduce your final cleanup time, you could try the water-borne varnishes and shellacs.  Target Coatings makes them.  Have no personal experience with them, though.  Given that they are water-borne, you could in theory clean the gun by loading it with soapy water and send it through although I think I'd first send clean water through followed by the soapy water since the soap will break the emulsifiers and leave you needing solvent.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Just thought I'd mention, if the spray gun doesn't have stainless steel inner parts -- needle, nozzle, fluid passages, and you use waterborne products and clean the gun with water, eventually -- rust and oxidation to steel and aluminum.  (Less of a problem with distilled water compared to tap water)  That will not only damage the parts, but also block fluid passages and get in the finish.

 

[VictorL]

Thanks for tips. I don't have problem to clean up water-based finishes. I just waste some finish, and that' it. Cleaning with water is very easy process. Tap water is not very expensive. My biggest concern is solvent based finishes like shellac and poly. Alcohol and paint thinner are much more expensive, smelly and environment unfriendly (paint thinner and varnish).  How to clean spray gun and jar? If cleaning solvent is clean, I don't see any problems, just soak and wipe. But after few cleanings thin layer of finish will build up on the gun (I mean re-use cleaning fluid like alcohol and paint thinner). If I sprayed a couple oz of varnish should I waste a couple quarts of alcohol or paint thinner? How to painlessly switch between shellac and poly? Or between stain/glaze/shellac/poly?

Thanks
VictorL

 

[mastercabman]

If most of your projects are small and wish to use a spray gun,i would suggest to get a gravity feed spray gun.Very easy to clean.

 

[jmbfestool]

If most of your projects are small and wish to use a spray gun,i would suggest to get a gravity feed spray gun.Very easy to clean.

+1

 

[ccmviking]

I use 3M PPS cups so clean up is very minimal and you can spray upside down if you want to.

3M PPS

 

[Knight Woodworks]

Hi Victor,

Good info here.  +2 for a gravity gun.

The one thing I wanted to add is you should be careful if you're using the same gun for water based and solvent based finishes. It's easy to contaminate the gun w/ solvent based finish leading to fish eyes in your wb finishes.

I strongly suggest that you not use paint thinner or mineral spirits. Instead use alcohol or lacquer thinner.  DAHIKT

John

 

[VictorL]

Thanks a lot. Now I need to find the right second spray system or gun. I do have Earlex 5000. I don't think if Festool will bring something soon. They run survey recently.

VictorL

 

[DevonC]

The shop that I work at has a gravity gun with the 3M PPS for smaller jobs and it works great. It also decreases the solvent needed to clean up as you only need to clean the gun.