Clear guide rail splinterguard rough cut

briancc

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
6
I'm a new Festool user, and using the guide rail with the TS55 REQ and 24 tooth rip blade the initial cut left the clear splinterguard a little ragged along its length. It makes it tough to now do precise alignment of the edge of the splinterguard to a fine line drawn on the wood. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong?
 
2 things... Make sure that your blade isn't on backwards. Also when you initiate cutting the strip, that you have it fully supported underneath and plunge deep enough into the sacrificial board. If you are "skimming" the strip, I could see it fraying like that.

If you don't have the supplemental guide for your 55, get it and read it cover to cover. Lots of good usability tips in there.
 
THis brings up a question I've always had though and the reason I'm reluctant to use any blade other than the factory blade on the TS 55REQ. Will using a different Festool blade (like the ripping blade) change the clear splinter guard and the accuracy when you return to the original combo blade that came with the saw?
 
grbmds said:
THis brings up a question I've always had though and the reason I'm reluctant to use any blade other than the factory blade on the TS 55REQ. Will using a different Festool blade (like the ripping blade) change the clear splinter guard and the accuracy when you return to the original combo blade that came with the saw?

Simple answer really. If the kerf is the same, and you aren't changing arbors, you will have the same cut line. I make sure when I order different blades that I use the same kerf. That way I don't have to have different rails for each blade, I think I would go crazy if that was the case.
 
I think my mistake was using the Panther ripping blade for the initial cut of the splinterguard. I should have kept the standard blade on first, and like bnaboatbuilder said, slow down the blade speed for that initial cut of the plastic. I'm going to buy a new splinterguard today, so I just wanted to get some advice to avoid the same mistake. Thanks for the responses.
 
You could just move over the splinter guard a little and cut it again...

Tom
 
I had great success removing without the heat gun, but you do need to make sure all the glue is cleaned off before reinstalling. The heat gun I suppose takes care of that because the glue comes completely off with the strip. I've don it more than once, though, and the reapply has stayed both times.
 
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