CMS and Kreg Beaded Face Frame System with 8020 Solution

[thedevme]

I posted a couple weeks ago a solution using just the Kapex Crown Clamp and the Kreg Beaded Face Frame but I didn't like how the cuts were coming out so I removed the post and came up with a new solution using 8020. These are the parts I am using:

Qty: 4 -https://8020.net/75-3401.html Amt: 1.60
Qty: 1 -https://8020.net/1020.html 15 inches or 381 mm Amt: 7.80 (I might get an 18-inch piece instead)
Qty: 1 -https://8020.net/6724.html (w/o brake Amt: 68.80)
    orhttps://8020.net/6424.html (w/brake 73.25)

I happen to have a flange with the break but I don't think you need it. At the time I didn't realize the difference. I also bought mine for something else so it really only cost me about $10 extra to make this work. I really wanted a solution using Festool vs buying another table or trying to wing it which is way more time-consuming.  I also put a 1/4 spacer on the bottom I might make a spacer that's 1/8 instead but for now, it's working.

If you have any questions or ways to improve it please share. These cuts were quick I just need to dial in the height of the router bits but I wanted to show my progress I will work on this more this weekend.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Nice setup  [thumbs up]

Q: what hold the fence from moving?

I can't see the brake kit from any picture or is it the vertical handle that lock it in place?.

 

[thedevme]

Thank you [member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member]!  I am sure happy with my setup.  I've been using this setup for about 2 weeks now and it works really well.  Its an expensive investment but it saves me tons of time.

I have the fence screwed into the 8020 aluminum using these bracketshttps://8020.net/14058.html Sorry I forgot to add these and it doesn't move at all. There is a little play but since I have it up so high it does not affect anything.

 

[Mario Turcot]

I should have express myself a little better

I meant what prevent the Linear Bearing from sliding in/out the part #6724

 

[Michael Kellough]

Do you really want the bead groove in the stile to pass behind the end of the rail?

Usually the end of the rail fits tight to the unprofiled part of the stile so the rail looks like it extends from the stile. As in, it looks like a square profiled frame has had a round profiled molding nailed on.

To get that look you need to make the notch in the stile wider.

 

[thedevme]

Do you really want the bead groove in the stile to pass behind the end of the rail?

Usually the end of the rail fits tight to the unprofiled part of the stile so the rail looks like it extends from the stile. As in, it looks like a square profiled frame has had a round profiled molding nailed on.

To get that look you need to make the notch in the stile wider.

Yes.  If I am understanding your question. I am literally posting what I did below this.

 

[thedevme]

Here are some results to a practice piece I am working on.  I am a beginner and so this is helping me learn beaded face frames as well as Blum soft close inset drawers and soft close doors.

View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3

 

[thedevme]

I should have express myself a little better

I meant what prevent the Linear Bearing from sliding in/out the part #6724

Nothing prevents it from sliding in and out.  It is a pretty smooth piece.  Pretty much works just like Kregs except theirs has a stop at the end and mine does not.  Mine does not need one because its long enough that once you pass the bit I just stop.  It does not freely move at all you have to actually push it to move it.  I hope that answers your question. I use 6724 on my MFT table instead of the locking mechanism Festool has.  This allows my rail to adjust based on the height of the material instead of having to fix it each time.

 

[Micah]

This is excellent.  One question.  What is the plate that is locked onto the CMS (the plate under the plywood that has a black knob to anchor it to the CMS table.

Thank you,
Micah

I posted a couple weeks ago a solution using just the Kapex Crown Clamp and the Kreg Beaded Face Frame but I didn't like how the cuts were coming out so I removed the post and came up with a new solution using 8020. These are the parts I am using:

Qty: 4 -https://8020.net/75-3401.html Amt: 1.60
Qty: 1 -https://8020.net/1020.html 15 inches or 381 mm Amt: 7.80 (I might get an 18-inch piece instead)
Qty: 1 -https://8020.net/6724.html (w/o brake Amt: 68.80)
    orhttps://8020.net/6424.html (w/brake 73.25)

I happen to have a flange with the break but I don't think you need it. At the time I didn't realize the difference. I also bought mine for something else so it really only cost me about $10 extra to make this work. I really wanted a solution using Festool vs buying another table or trying to wing it which is way more time-consuming.  I also put a 1/4 spacer on the bottom I might make a spacer that's 1/8 instead but for now, it's working.

If you have any questions or ways to improve it please share. These cuts were quick I just need to dial in the height of the router bits but I wanted to show my progress I will work on this more this weekend.