Considering a Hammer K3 - What options do owners recommend?

[Prizen]

Hello All

I am considering a Hammer K3, (or perhaps a Minimax SC2). Space is quite limited so I don't think I have room for the outrigger table for panel crosscuts therefore ruling out the K3 Winner Comfort (the one with the outrigger table attached to the sliding table as standard).

Some of the options remaining on their Basic/Winner Lines include:

Sliding Table itself: Length of 800mm (base option) or 1250mm

Fences
Crosscut Fence: 900mm (base) or add 750mm extension
Rip Fence: Basic Rip Fence / Rip Fence with Large round bar / Cast iron rip fence rip capacity 800mm
Fine adjustment for pro rip fence

Saw unit
Scoring: No / Yes
Dado Unit: I am in Europe, didnt know these were allowed? Anyone have any experience?

Other
Rolling castors + Lifting bar

Anyone owners past or present care to share their experience? Oh, I intend on using this saw for a variety of work, some panels, some boards etc.

Thanks

 

[IndyWoodworker]

I purchased a Hammer K3 Winner with the extension table.  Sliding Table is 1250mm which is very helpful.  I have the rip fence that comes with the unit with a large round bar.  I did not get the fine adjustment and so far have not needed it.  It was suggested by the Felder folks in the US to include the scoring unit on the initial purchase. 

Make sure to get both the rip blade and the crosscut or standard blade with the unit. 

If you have any other questions, please ask.

Regards,

Chuck

 

[Prizen]

Thanks Indy. I kinda wonder with many of these optional extras that if coming to the K3 with the perspective of it being an upgrade over a previous saw, if one didn't order the options then you don't miss them. On the other hand adding on to the base model, the various add ons may price more devisive

 

[Prizen]

Oh and Indy, did you also opt for the outrigger? Or are you referring to selecting the 1250mm long sliding surface only?

 

[cider]

• The scoring unit works as advertised, although you have to remove the scoring blade when using a 12" main blade.
• The dado capability is nice to have.  Note that the Hammer branded dado blade is shockingly expensive!
• If you have room for the outrigger, I strongly recommend; otherwise, I suggest this, along with the miter fence
• I didn't like the clamp at first, but now that I've learned its quirks, I use it frequently.
• I also use this for outfeed support.
• The wheels and lifting bar work well.
• I have the edging shoe and never use it.  Waste of money for me.

That said, what I really think is essential is a Fritz and Franz setup

 

[IndyWoodworker]

I have the outrigger table and the longer sliding table (1250 mm).  The outrigger table is a nice thing to have if you are cutting plywood as it helps to stabilize the larger material.  For me, it was a transition from conventional cabinet tablesaw to a sliding tablesaw.  Is it necessary to have the outrigger, that is more of a personal choice.  My thought was to put the options on the unit as an initial purchase.  Just last night I was using the outrigger table on the saw to cut larger sheets. 

Definitely get the 900 mm Crosscut fence. 

If you are considering the rolling cart portion of the saw, that is something where I might suggest looking at the Bora mobile base.  I bought the original mobile unit sold by Felder, but found that having the Bora mobile base is a more friendly in my shop.

I also agree the Fritz and Franz setup is a good idea.  However, there is a good series on YouTube for building your own. 

 

[threesixright]

Why not a TKS 80? If space is limited...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Prizen]

I can Definitely fit a K3 without outrigger. I could manage to have an outrigger installed and use it occasionally, bit leaving it installed wouldn't be an option. I guess I could either order without outrigger initially and see how things go, or bite the bullet and order with the outrigger and install/remove it as necessary.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Prizen, this may be a stretch but have you considered a B3 (saw/shaper)? I recently ordered a KF700SP, it hasn’t arrived yet (predicted arrival is January 2021), but I’m already very thankful that I added the shaper option given my current shop work. Also, if you’re short on shop space, having the integrated shaper could help eliminate a router table. I ordered the 1-1/4” spindle, as well as the high speed router spindle with 1/2” and 1/4” collets. May eventually add a 30mm spindle to complete the set.....

 

[infer]

I am waiting for my K3 October delivery. It’s been 4 months since I paid for it.
I recommend getting the emergency stop, fine adjustment for fence and the mobility kit. Ext for crosscut fence is nice. If you get the Basic model with the 1250 slider you can upgrade to a outrigger at a later date. My space is very limited so I got the smallest config available. Big increase in price for just a longer slider though.

 

[derekcohen]

Hello All

I am considering a Hammer K3, (or perhaps a Minimax SC2). Space is quite limited so I don't think I have room for the outrigger table for panel crosscuts therefore ruling out the K3 Winner Comfort (the one with the outrigger table attached to the sliding table as standard).

Some of the options remaining on their Basic/Winner Lines include:

Sliding Table itself: Length of 800mm (base option) or 1250mm

Fences
Crosscut Fence: 900mm (base) or add 750mm extension
Rip Fence: Basic Rip Fence / Rip Fence with Large round bar / Cast iron rip fence rip capacity 800mm
Fine adjustment for pro rip fence

Saw unit
Scoring: No / Yes
Dado Unit: I am in Europe, didnt know these were allowed? Anyone have any experience?

Other
Rolling castors + Lifting bar

Anyone owners past or present care to share their experience? Oh, I intend on using this saw for a variety of work, some panels, some boards etc.

Thanks

Hi Prizen

I have the K3 Winner with 1250 wagon (it actually rips 1345mm), along with the Professional (upgraded) fence (the one on the round bar), no scoring unit, and I do not do dados on a table saw.

My target area is solid wood furniture. I do not work with MDF or chipboard. If you work with melamine coatings, then you need a scoring blade. Not relevant for me.

My space is limited to a double garage (and half of this is for machines, the other half for hand tools) ...

Older photos ...

The K3 has received a number of modifications/additions to improve it. One is the Wixey digital gauge ...

Another was the addition of a router table to the outfeed ...

Read up on Fritz & Frans jig - lots on YouTube. The wagon without the outrigger requires that it work in reverse. Consequently I designed a "reversed F&F jig" ...

Using the F&F makes you aware that a 800mm wagon is too short. Do not be tempted to get one. The 1250 works well (and there are ways to make it work longer - more on this another time).

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[MikkelF]

I also just ordered a Hammer K3. I went with the basic version to limit the footprint. I also added the following:
- Scoring blade
- Autostart of other machines
- Dado prep.
- 1250 mm slider
- 900 + 1300 mm crosscut fence with extension (will use it as my precision chop saw)
- Table extension
- Updated 90-degree stop (Marius Hornberger style)
- Mitre fence with precision mitre guide
- A cross and a rip saw blade

I didn't order the outrigger since Im using the TSO parallel guide and FS2700 / FS1400 for cross and rip cuts of sheet goods.
I like to do bigger pieces such as Tables, sofa tables, Lounge chairs, wall decorations... It's european style meaning clean lines and not raised doors etc. It also means I work with both hardwood (a lot of oak) and sheet material (MDF and plywood) as a busy weekend warrior ;-)

But im really in doubt about:
- Should I spend additionally $1.500 to upgrade it to a B3 instead - and having a shaper build in would you say that would eliminate the need for a dedicated router table? If that's the case the real price increase would be decreased to somewhere around $500 and I would save some precious floor space.

- Im also thinking about purchasing the N3800 Bandsaw, but that would definitely steal the budget for the shaper / router table, so not sure if I should put that on hold since I can always buy one of those. How much do you guys use your band saw vs. router table or shapers?

- Im my somewhat limited in space I think I'll go with the Bora mobile base. Anything that need to be customized to their bases to fit the K3?

 

[hdv]

As the owner of a C3-31 I can tell you that having a shaper to your disposal is great, but I would never give up my router table because of that. I do have the add-ons to use the shaper as a router table, but find that setting up my Incra router table is much more convenient for routing small stuff.

 

[egmiii]

I would look at the cost of shaper tooling before you decide on the B3. Generally the tooling exceeds the cost of the machine. That being said, a shaper is an amazing tool and I wouldn't be without one. I also have a router table. Bits are comparatively cheap and there is a ton of options.

 

[MikkelF]

Thanks, but still in doubt. Ordering the K3 without the shaper means it will be a lot more expensive to get a shaper later + the additional space required for a stand-alone machine - on the other hand what do you guys typically use your shaper for that you either cant do with your router table or a dado on your saw? I’m still not convinced if I need the shaper or not... so maybe your use-cases can help me decide where to best spend my budget

 

[derekcohen]

What do you build?

Do you use a router table much?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[MikkelF]

Hi Derek,

Thank you for your reply. Regarding what I want to build - I think it's better if I share a link to Pinterest projects that I use as inspiration: My Pinterest inspiration As you might notice it's mainly "italian styling" using earth color paint and blend that with natural wood as contrast to each other.

I haven't used a router table to date but instead a router and a straight-edge clamp. I haven't had room for a router table in my old workshop. Im currently in the process of building a new workshop with around 240 sq. ft. compared to 100 sq. ft. in my old shop, so more space, but still not a huge shop:

Exterior (Current progress)
Interior (Computer sketch)

The K3 is to be delivered in Jan 21 which I will use to build the interior cabinets and tables

Ps. Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I think a lot of potential K3 buyers are having the same considerations regarding K3 or B3 vs. router tables

 

[derekcohen]

Mikke, I am probably the last person to advise on a router table vs a shaper. I do not have a shaper. Never used one. And I barely use the router table - building a nice, new one (above) was just fun for me - I usually build a tool or fixture between a furniture project.

My router use is predominantly hand held, and even then not that much as I prefer to use hand tools. The pride of my shop is my work bench. Still, I get a lot of use from my Hammers:  K3 sliding saw, the A3-31 combo jointer-thicknesser/planer, and N4400 bandsaw.

To give you an idea of the furniture I build without the use of either a shaper or router table, this is a piece of mine that was featured in the gallery of the latest FWW magazine ...

FWW did not include these ...

You appear to like Mid Century designs. Here is another of mine ....

My website is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/index.html

Having all the tools/machines is not necessary. The furniture you link to is simple to construct and I really would have little need for a shaper.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[MikkelF]

Wow, you are a really talented craftsman! Thats some really beautiful pieces with attention to details
These examples gives me comfort that I don't really need the shaper... having in mind my preference for simplistic design. This also supports my plan for getting the N4400/N3800 and the A3-31 spiral next.

What are other FOG members using their shapers for?

 

[hdv]

Well, I bought my C3-31 when my new house was built a bit more than 5 years ago. I have used the shaper for things like window frames, door frames, and pieces that required large rebates. I was planning on doing all kinds of profiles as well, but in the end didn't like the look of it and stuck to square cuts. All in all not something everyone will do on a regular basis. After my house was finished I have used the shaper significantly less.