Consolidated Q&A for Planex and CT AutoClean

Saskataper said:
80 grit, I wish they had a 60 though it would be perfect for this application

I second that!  I tried using 36 on a ceiling today and there was no way to control it, just too aggressive.
 
Ok I just tried out the Planex for a little finish sanding with the 240 grit and it blows the porter cable away, I was a little anxious till now, after rough sanding a job with 150 it seemed a little hard to control but with the 240 its a whole different story, it moves around really nice. I used it to sand my second bathroom which is a tiny 40" wide and about 10' long which would have been near impossible with the PC cause of its size and limited flexibility of the head, the finish was really nice and i was amazed how well it sanded the angles with the front section removed with no dust escape. I cant wait to use it on the job I'm working on right now, I'll try and take a good video possibly with a review and I'm going to try it with the Joest 330 grit that I used with my PC sander, the finish I could achieve with that was unreal.
 
I'm no paint expert like our friend Scott, but doesn't paint need a lair face with a little bite to adhere well? Seems like 330 would be too smooth.
 
Shane Holland said:
I'm no paint expert like our friend Scott, but doesn't paint need a lair face with a little bite to adhere well? Seems like 330 would be too smooth.

We refer to it as "tooth", in the context of prep and adhesion.

I do agree that the Planex is really nice in high grits, but grit stepping with it is really not necessary. I like 240 on many tasks and do not need to go higher. The key is to just sand in between every coat for smoothness.

If anyone is confused about that, let me know. We have a cool Planex project coming up.
 
The 330 is probably overkill but its really good for getting used to a machine because you can take your time and see what its doing without worrying about over sanding, I was going to move to the 220 grit Joest paper with my PC once I finished the box I had but now its going to be festool 240 I think. The Joest and Festool sandpapers are very similar but the Joest has small perforations throughout it rather than the tool specific holes on the Festool, I cant really comment on performance until I have some time with this Festool paper but so far so good. The key is the softness of the paper, PC paper is like cardboard I tried their 220 once for about 30 seconds and it left swirls like crazy, Festool and Joest is more like fabric, the edges roll up around the sanding pad.
As far as adhesion goes thats what the drywall primer is for.
 
Bikeboy80 said:
Saskataper said:
80 grit, I wish they had a 60 though it would be perfect for this application

I second that!  I tried using 36 on a ceiling today and there was no way to control it, just too aggressive.

I actually gave the 36 grit a try again today. I have a textured ceiling that was painted and the 80 just wasn't cutting it [tongue]
I adjusted the speed down to about 2.5 and as long as I kept good pressure on the head it melted away the texture like butter! But if I just let up a bit on the pressure the head would start this wobble with no way to stop it but pull it from the surface completely.
After I had 95% of the texture gone I swapped back to the 80grit, turned the speed back up to 5.5 and switched to the center of pad suction to finish the clean up.

Every time I use this tool I learn something new and it impresses me even more [big grin]
 
Bikeboy80 said:
Bikeboy80 said:
Saskataper said:
80 grit, I wish they had a 60 though it would be perfect for this application

I second that!  I tried using 36 on a ceiling today and there was no way to control it, just too aggressive.

I actually gave the 36 grit a try again today. I have a textured ceiling that was painted and the 80 just wasn't cutting it [tongue]
I adjusted the speed down to about 2.5 and as long as I kept good pressure on the head it melted away the texture like butter! But if I just let up a bit on the pressure the head would start this wobble with no way to stop it but pull it from the surface completely.
After I had 95% of the texture gone I swapped back to the 80grit, turned the speed back up to 5.5 and switched to the center of pad suction to finish the clean up.

Every time I use this tool I learn something new and it impresses me even more [big grin]

Cool! I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks man, this is why I love forums like this, usually someone has tried or is willing to try something that might not work
 
Thanks for another video showing the Planex in action. I saw that you've used the PC 7800. Can you offer your commentary on a comparison between that and the Planex?

Edit - Dude, you're blowing through those joints at lightspeed. I did a fair amount of drywall work when I finished my basement and it SUCKED compared to doing it with the Planex. Drywall sanding is probably at the very top of things I would pay someone else to do for me. Unless I had a Planex. [wink]
 
Is getting the EPA RRP certification of the CT 36 AutoClean configured with autoclean off and a HEPA filter installed planned?
 
Shane Holland said:
atlr said:
Is getting the EPA RRP certification of the CT 36 AutoClean configured with autoclean off and a HEPA filter installed planned?

No plans.

I was actually thinking about this today.... Are there significant differences in the seals between the Ct36 and the 36ac if you put the HEPA filter and standard bag in?

I know it is not HEPA certified but would it perform similar?
 
Bikeboy80 said:
I was actually thinking about this today.... Are there significant differences in the seals between the Ct36 and the 36ac if you put the HEPA filter and standard bag in?

I know it is not HEPA certified but would it perform similar?

No difference in seals. So, in theory, it would perform similarly.

In a strict interpretation of the RRP rules, it says that a vacuum cannot be retrofitted with a HEPA filter.

Beyond that, the AutoClean functionality could potentially compromise the filtration level of a HEPA filter if it were left installed (edited to clarify - left installed and the AutoClean functionality cycles), yielding the filter effective at less-than-HEPA standards.

Using the AutoClean for RRP is not advocated by Festool under any circumstances. Do so at your own risk of being cited and fined.

If you just want HEPA for non-RRP purposes, go for it. Just remember to disable the AutoClean while the HEPA filter is installed for the best results.

 
Just picked up my Planex and CT36 AC - thanks for all the great info, made outlaying the cash an easier decision.

Tomorrow will be first run with the tool and so far only one question with AC set-up - how exactly is the disposable bag positioned at the front of the extractor?  The diagrams are a little vague and I couldn't find any pics/video online.  Don't want to end up with dust everywhere on the first go.

Can't wait to get started.

Thanks, AJ.

Just noticed some of you are running the AC without the disposal bag.  Shane, what are your thoughts on this?
 
I tuck the bag in the grove just over the inside lip so it doesn't over hang the hose port.

As far as I can tell not using a bag does not affect the performance but does make it a mess to empty.
 
Shane,  Is it possible to get parts for the Planex hose?  What I'm looking for is the connector end (495013) and it's not showing in the EKAT yet.  What I want to do is replace my regular D36 connector with the flanged Planex one instead of buying another hose. 

Another thing about the Planex hose.  I believe earlier you mentioned that it was antistatic, but on the Festoolusa site it is listed under non-antistatic hoses.  Which is it, anti or non-anti?  If it is antistatic, then I would just buy that hose to replace my current hose as it seems a little more flexible than the green hoses. Is this true?  Thanks.
 
The cuff for the CT 36 AC is not as versatile as the standard cuff. It will not fit the Compact cleaning set or a few of the other tools that require a male hose fit up.

I've had no problem with static with the 36 mm AC hose no matter what operation I've preformed with it.

Tom
 
Thanks Tom.  I realize that the flange would be a problem for some tools, but I use my d27 for pretty much all of my tools (can you tell I don't have enough Festools yet)  except for my cleaning sets.  I have both the compact and installer sets. I'm sure I can modify the compact set to fit in the d36 connector.  As for the installer set, I removed the plastic collar on the receiving end of the handle section as I find the d36 connector has a better grip when you slip it over instead of into the handle.    So my situation right now is whether to spend $15 on a Planex connector or $155 on another hose that is pretty much the same as the hose I already have. 
 
Back
Top