Conversion Varnish over acrylic latex?
- Thread starter tiralie
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junk731
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Tom in my case SW is not real an option. Don't forget both Tim and I are on the other side of border. I can't speak for Tim but I haven't found an SW store that knows what the professional spray products are and I've tried 3 of them. We do have some good suppliers but none that I've found are SW. The closest is ML Campbell which I believe is now owned by SW. Personally I use Target and General for my spray finishes and would be hard pressed to change because of the service I get from our distributor Woodessence.
John
John
tjbnwi
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Target and General are both great finishes.
For me the opposite of your situation holds true, no local Target or General dealer in the area. I got lucky when they opened a new SW store in the area, the field rep called me, I told him the issues I had with a closer store. He's made sure I have no issues at his store. I used to drive 60 miles past my local store to get what I needed from anther store, glad those days are over.
Tom
For me the opposite of your situation holds true, no local Target or General dealer in the area. I got lucky when they opened a new SW store in the area, the field rep called me, I told him the issues I had with a closer store. He's made sure I have no issues at his store. I used to drive 60 miles past my local store to get what I needed from anther store, glad those days are over.
Tom
roblg3
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So, I'm a very small 1 man show and a novice at finishing,but I'm smart and understand logic. If latex paint covered with cv CAN be successfully wiped with acetone, I hardly see how it's a waste of time to do. Not only that, one of the biggest damagers of woodwork is UV exposure. KA+ is UV stabilized. It may not protect against hard dings, it definitely protects against light scratching better, blushes significantly less than lacquer, is much more environmentally friendly and safe enough for me to spray in my spare bedroom. I hardly see how any of that is a waste of time? But I do not have years of experience like many of you guys do. Can anyone tell me where I'm wrong?
tiralie
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tjbnwi said:
It's on the list, just haven't got to it yet.
I'll get to it. I think, if I remember correctly my SW store does not stock but will order KW plus.
The reason I started using ML Campbell was I need a reliable way to match any color my clients want.
The SW store I buy from will only sell me tinted KA in 5 gallon quantities, (I rarely need that much) and I am not confident that tinting Target with BM tints are getting me the best match. The BM store I deal with doesn't really like to tint my Target bases with their BM colors.
I have a lot of choices (maybe too many) of pro paint suppliers in my area, but like John, the service and knowledge from Woodessence is a real benefit.
Tim
tjbnwi
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Tim Raleigh said:
Tim,
It was a curiosity question. By all means if your happy with what you use continue to do so. I'm not trying to change anyones minds, just out to learn something. I've got way to much respect for your talent to question your decisions.
Tom
downtheroad
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tjbnwi said:
Before General Finishes (GF) acquired the Enduro line, it was made by Compliant Spray Systems (CSS), a small manufacturer in San Clemente, CA. For more than a decade, Mark, the guy I work with did seminars on finishing for them. We were lucky back then to be able to go to CSS and have custom colors made with their Enduro waterborne coatings and stains.
After the sale to GF, we searched for a locally available "furniture" quality waterborne with the selection of bases that could be custom tinted. Even with clearcoats, many of the waterbornes didn't have the clarity, depth, and feel we wanted (haven't tried the KA+ yet, not as available for us either).
We work with some designers that are so picky with getting the color just right. Having a local distributor that we can send them to and make sure they are happy with the color saves us time and hopefully, we don't have to spend time to fine-tune the color with them in our shop. That is something we want to avoid if possible. Also, the distributor we use will do 1 gallon custom tinting (miss the days when we were able to get customs in quarts from CSS).
We mainly use products from General Finishes and Target Coatings, but, ML Cambell's Agualente is the product we've been using in these custom color situations and its worked out very well for us. We've done a few custom pieces over the past couple of years that we were able to get a very good high gloss polish on. Currently, we are working on a small kitchen facelift. New doors/drawer fronts, new color and clearcoated with Agualente.
tiralie
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downtheroad said:
Hi Tony, I liked that bit of history. Didn't know that about the Enduro line.
Are you always clear coating the pigmented Aqualente? Are you clear coating with Aqualente?
I was considering it (clear coating) but by the time I am finished messing about I have applied 3 coats of colorand I find that after 30 days the finish is very tough.
Tim
downtheroad
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Tim Raleigh said:
Hi Tim,
My Buddy, Mark started 35 years ago as a furniture tech doing touchups and repairs. Back then, generally all high-end manufacturers put plenty of clearcoat over their color work. As well as extra protection, it can help to give more depth and makes it possible to rub out a tabletop, for example.
A lot of finishes are now "off the gun" and can be "nibby" and not feel very good to your hand. We get asked to remedy that and/or rub out light scratches/scuffs. When lightly abrading a coating, you don't want to burn through/into the color. Makes it much harder for us. These days, it amazes us how many pieces of furniture have clearcoats that are thin or nonexistent, ...oh well.
From a touchup and service tech point of view, clearcoating is generally a good thing. As for your question on the pigmented Agualente, yes, we are clearcoating. On this kitchen, we are using their pre-cat. If you are happy with your results with not clearcoating, that's probably fine.
BPCFinishing
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Just an update on some bathroom cabinets I've been working on. I had sprayed several coats of SW Pro industrial Acrylic in a dark brown color, but was unhappy with the overall finish and print resistance of the product (some of which has to do with the amount of colorant likely. I lightly sanded all doors and drawer fronts and resprayed the color, let dry then followed up with 2 coats of kem aqua plus clear in the bright rubbed effect. Soooooo much better. Because I was able to build the clear coat a bit the finish looks smoother and you can now grab hold of the doors with leaving prints all over. [cool]