Crown Stops...are they worth it?

[Naildrivingman]

The title says it all, I guess.  I ask, because I worked with a large cove molding today that was difficult to hold in place. I have been reluctant to buy them because I have other ways I want to spend $120. Also reluctant, because one either uses the stops or the wings, but they cannot be used together , I wish they could.

 

[tjbnwi]

Turn the wings around, left for right, right for left. You now have crown stops.

Tom

 

[Naildrivingman]

Turn the wings around, left for right, right for left. You now have crown stops.

Tom

Son of a Gun!

Smart!!!!

I battled a 4 1/4" cove molding yesterday. I wish I would have asked earlier, but I'm glad I did now. Today should go better with this info. Again, I have seen through the FOG!

Thanks Tom.

 

[tjbnwi]

Turn the wings around, left for right, right for left. You now have crown stops.

Tom

Son of a Gun!

Smart!!!!

I battled a 4 1/4" cove molding yesterday. I wish I would have asked earlier, but I'm glad I did now. Today should go better with this info. Again, I have seen through the FOG!

Thanks Tom.

You're welcome.

Tom

 

[ear3]

Only if you find them severely discounted.  I've used mine only a couple of times, and tend to prefer Gary Katz method for cutting crown, as it gives support right at the cut, which can be important if you're dealing with long boards.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Only if you find them severely discounted.  I've used mine only a couple of times, and tend to prefer Gary Katz method for cutting crown, as it gives support right at the cut, which can be important if you're dealing with long boards.

By Gary Katz method, I assume you refer to cutting crown on the flat versus upside down and backwards.  I agree that there is a need for cutting on the flat in the case where the crown's drop exceeds the depth of cut of the saw.  I've generally found that a coped joint is more forgiving than an inside miter.  In my current case, I'm dealing with a 5 1/4" cove with a 45* Spring angle. Coping this joint requires severe material removal to a point where the top/bottom of the cut results in a very thin remainder; therefore, an inside miter is the only way to have enough surface to glue.

 

[deepcreek]

Gary cuts in position and uses an auxiliary fence with a continuous crown stop clamped to the saw.

 

[ear3]

That's it -- upside down and nested.  Though I use the stock Kapex fence.  Haven't yet had to cut crown that would require a taller auxiliary.

Gary cuts in position and uses an auxiliary fence with a continuous crown stop clamped to the saw.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Gary cuts in position and uses an auxiliary fence with a continuous crown stop clamped to the saw.

Gary's all over the map.  In the video you posted he says nothing of cutting crown on the flat and in another YouTube video he goes so far as to state that cutting on the flat is the only method that guarantees accurate cuts. I think the wind blows both ways in Gary's world.

 

[rizzoa13]

I found using the crown stops to be very very innacurate. Since cutting on the flat my for as been near perfect. Since getting a copemaster this week my crowns been absolutely perfect  8)

 

[Rollin22Petes]

Cove crown is notorious for cupping especially the larger profiles I've always found it best to cut it flat. As far as Festool crown stops I wouldn't waste the money just cut everything flat.