CT22 & fiber cement dust?
- Thread starter Toolpig
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I hope you are using a very effective facemask/respirator - that stuff is very toxic when turned to dust - read the MSDS on the material. If you were using a CT22 with a Kapex or a TS55 you would catch most of it. But what's the dust collection capability of the chop saw?
Cement & fiberboard dust is not only toxic, it will travel into the most unbelievable corners.
i personally would not cut that stuff inside of your house unless there was 110% capture of the dust with whatever you are using for DC.
I have not cut concrete fiberboard inside, but have seen the clouds when cutting outside. I have written elsewhere on the FOG about an experience with grinding concrete inside a house addition. It did upset the homeowners just a tad when they returned home on New Years Eve from a ski vacation only to didcover the dust had coated everything in their house. It even managed to penetrate under the bedsheets. I was very diffinitely NOT at the top of thier good guy list. Eventually, all was resolved. i was lucky they were such goog people and we did joke about it for years afterwards.
Tinker
i personally would not cut that stuff inside of your house unless there was 110% capture of the dust with whatever you are using for DC.
I have not cut concrete fiberboard inside, but have seen the clouds when cutting outside. I have written elsewhere on the FOG about an experience with grinding concrete inside a house addition. It did upset the homeowners just a tad when they returned home on New Years Eve from a ski vacation only to didcover the dust had coated everything in their house. It even managed to penetrate under the bedsheets. I was very diffinitely NOT at the top of thier good guy list. Eventually, all was resolved. i was lucky they were such goog people and we did joke about it for years afterwards.
Tinker
My guess is the dust created is similar to grinding dust from masonry/concrete/plaster cutting. I have a dedicated vac vor that kind of work (also use it for drywal sanding.
The dust created is fine, but heavy, and if you use a regular vac, it will clog the pores of the bag and suction will decrease quickly. (way before the bag is even 1/3rd full)
The vac I use has automatic filtercleaning, It's used without a bag, and when you turn of the tool connected if it has run for at least 2minutes, it wil automatically shake the filters, and the dust falls off, and the power of the suction remains.
If I use that vac to collect other dust (wooddust/ shavings / house dust, that dust will clog up the folds of the filter, and the electromagnetic cleaning won't work anymore... I'm going to get dustbags for that vac aswell, so I can use it for more purposes (and take the bag back out for grinding).
I can cut walls nearly dustfree, the first pass gives no dust, the second one will leak some dust through the already existing groove of the first cut; cutting grooves for electric pipes is dustfree, because they can be done in 1 pass. But usually when I have to cut through a wall I use watercooling, if possible (ground floor, no wooden floor)
The dust created is fine, but heavy, and if you use a regular vac, it will clog the pores of the bag and suction will decrease quickly. (way before the bag is even 1/3rd full)
The vac I use has automatic filtercleaning, It's used without a bag, and when you turn of the tool connected if it has run for at least 2minutes, it wil automatically shake the filters, and the dust falls off, and the power of the suction remains.
If I use that vac to collect other dust (wooddust/ shavings / house dust, that dust will clog up the folds of the filter, and the electromagnetic cleaning won't work anymore... I'm going to get dustbags for that vac aswell, so I can use it for more purposes (and take the bag back out for grinding).
I can cut walls nearly dustfree, the first pass gives no dust, the second one will leak some dust through the already existing groove of the first cut; cutting grooves for electric pipes is dustfree, because they can be done in 1 pass. But usually when I have to cut through a wall I use watercooling, if possible (ground floor, no wooden floor)
Toolpig
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I'm cutting this stuff outside using a cheap, CRAFTSMAN chop-saw with a fiber-cement blade.
I built a box behind the chop saw to help funnel the dust into the vac. However, the regular shop-vac doesn't work as well as the Festool.
So, I just need to know if the abrasive dust could harm the vac.
JW
I built a box behind the chop saw to help funnel the dust into the vac. However, the regular shop-vac doesn't work as well as the Festool.
So, I just need to know if the abrasive dust could harm the vac.
JW
Aquila said:
Ken Slemmer
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I know this reply is not related to dust collection but...
This is what I use, a cement fiber shear for siding.
http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-International-SS404-SteelHead-Cutting/dp/B0000DCBJH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1227906510&sr=1-1
Sorry that I could not attach image.
This is what I use, a cement fiber shear for siding.
http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-International-SS404-SteelHead-Cutting/dp/B0000DCBJH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1227906510&sr=1-1
Sorry that I could not attach image.
jaegerhund
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Ken -- I suppose the shears do a decent job of cutting down on the dust?
Justin
Justin
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Justin,
There is no dust. Just the ribbon of waste from the kerf - mine is 1/4" wide I guess - never measured. Cut over a drop cloth or tarp to make cleanup easier. I used to use a Hitachi slider to cut it but got tired of the dust. The shears take a little practice but they are safer lung wise. I stll use my slider from time to time as well as a circular saw for rips over windows and doors. Oh, there are differnt shears for strights and curves just like snips. Hope that this helps.
Peter
There is no dust. Just the ribbon of waste from the kerf - mine is 1/4" wide I guess - never measured. Cut over a drop cloth or tarp to make cleanup easier. I used to use a Hitachi slider to cut it but got tired of the dust. The shears take a little practice but they are safer lung wise. I stll use my slider from time to time as well as a circular saw for rips over windows and doors. Oh, there are differnt shears for strights and curves just like snips. Hope that this helps.
Peter
jaegerhund
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Yep it does help -- thank you Peter.
Justin
Justin
Ken Slemmer
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Yes, Peter's description of the shears is spot on.
I am installing Hardie Plank which are 12 foot lengths. I use the factory edge to butt edge to edge and install the cut siding to windows and trim board. Siding along all windows and trim are caulked.
You get use to making 90 deg cuts.
Always watch placement of your finger's when using shears. Nice and clean and most of all NO toxic dust in the work area or to track into the house.
I am installing Hardie Plank which are 12 foot lengths. I use the factory edge to butt edge to edge and install the cut siding to windows and trim board. Siding along all windows and trim are caulked.
You get use to making 90 deg cuts.
Always watch placement of your finger's when using shears. Nice and clean and most of all NO toxic dust in the work area or to track into the house.
Toolpig
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Well, I think I answered my own question.
I tried both the CT22 and my 14-gallon RIDGID shop vac with the "dust box" behind the chop saw and didn't notice any difference.
However, I did use the CT22 on my jigsaw to suck up dust on some trickier cuts around windows, etc., and it did a great job. I'm using the paper bags, so I imagine it'll help keep my vac from getting too messed up.
Jason
I tried both the CT22 and my 14-gallon RIDGID shop vac with the "dust box" behind the chop saw and didn't notice any difference.
However, I did use the CT22 on my jigsaw to suck up dust on some trickier cuts around windows, etc., and it did a great job. I'm using the paper bags, so I imagine it'll help keep my vac from getting too messed up.
Jason
Ken S said:
Tom the Remodeler
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Another vote for the fiber cement shears. The only real advantage (as far as I'm aware of) with using a blade to cut fiber cement board is you can cut many (5+) boards at a time. The downside of using saws to cut the fiber cement boards is it basically ruins the saw, between dust getting into the motor and getting into every nook and cranny of any moving parts. When I HAVE to use a blade I'll use my Bosch worm saw because it's reasonably bomb-proof. Otherwise though I use shears, and can achieve a VERY nice cut line if I use my speed-square as a guide. For cutting and notching I use a jigsaw with a carbide-tipped blade. Hope this helps!
---Tom
---Tom
