CT22 & rented floor sander

Toolpig

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Messages
399
Had a small area of red oak floor I needed to sand at the top of the stairs.  I'm using the Varathane floor sander that you rent at Lowe's.  It has a built-in vacuum, but it only gets 80% of the dust and I usually put a box fan in a window to blow any airborne dust out of the room.

In this case, there's no window.  Since the sander doesn't have HEPA filtration, I connected my CT22 vac to the sander and there was virtually NO DUST!  Check it out.

TP
 
Very Nicely Done!

The Floor Installers we sell to utilize the Mini, and now the midi with the RO 150 FEQ for doing stair tread work.  When I first took it to a job site and demoed a, 22 with the old 150, it about put an "old timer" in the business on his Red Oak Floor he just installed...face up.  We used some Rubin 36 grit to start, then to 50, and finished out in R.O. Mode with 80g Rubin. Just make sure that you turn your 50g phase to R.O. mode for the second half.  No Dust, No Swirls.  For the over achievers, you may want to finish with the ES 125 with some 120g is you are working with lighter material like Maple, Birch, or Beech.

Now with the new RO 150 FEQ and the bumper guard attachment that comes with the tool, it's even hotter.

Makes quick work of a very laborious job.

Timmy C
 
Yep -- I also used the RO150 for the stair treads and the Deltex 93 in the corners.  Started with the 36-grit Saphir paper and moved up to 50 & 80 grit Rubin (don't start the 36-grit Rubin on old finish as it stops cutting pretty quickly).  Also used the 24-grit Saphir on the ROTEX in some tough spots and 24-grit Sahpir on the Deltex.  A paint scraper with a carbide tip helps in some spots, too.

TP

Timmy C said:
Very Nicely Done!

The Floor Installers we sell to utilize the Mini, and now the midi with the RO 150 FEQ for doing stair tread work.  When I first took it to a job site and demoed a, 22 with the old 150, it about put an "old timer" in the business on his Red Oak Floor he just installed...face up.  We used some Rubin 36 grit to start, then to 50, and finished out in R.O. Mode with 80g Rubin. Just make sure that you turn your 50g phase to R.O. mode for the second half.  No Dust, No Swirls.  For the over achievers, you may want to finish with the ES 125 with some 120g is you are working with lighter material like Maple, Birch, or Beech.

Now with the new RO 150 FEQ and the bumper guard attachment that comes with the tool, it's even hotter.

Makes quick work of a very laborious job.

Timmy C
 
Wow!
When I saw the title of your post, my reaction was "yeah right, that's going to make a mess!"  Glad I read on. :D
 
Toolpig 

Would this type of floor sander good choice for exterior pine porch floors?  The floors don't necessarily need to be sanded flat, just knock off the high spots and rough up the existing painted surface.  Maybe start w/ 50 grit and end w/ 80 grit, which I think is the highest you can get for the Varathane sander.  I have over 1000 sq. ft. to refinish. 

Thanks for your help.
 
Fester said:
Toolpig 

Would this type of floor sander good choice for exterior pine porch floors?  The floors don't necessarily need to be sanded flat, just knock off the high spots and rough up the existing painted surface.  Maybe start w/ 50 grit and end w/ 80 grit, which I think is the highest you can get for the Varathane sander.  I have over 1000 sq. ft. to refinish. 

Thanks for your help.

  I'd said you have a good job on your hands, 1000 sq. ft. of paint removal, you will go through a lot of paper=a lot of $$$, I think 50 grit won't do it, 36 maybe. I don't know how I would approach this job, scrape it first? Second thought, I'd call a professional floor sander.

Edited to spell scrape correctly, I wrote scrap the first time, big difference in the two words.
 
If you are handy I would recommend a flooring Belt Sander or Drum Sander; 1000 Sq. Ft is quite a bit to do if you are taking paint off.  The Oscillating Pad sander is much more forgiving than a drum sander.  If you are not used to running a flooring machine it would be a better choice.  Furthermore, the paint and the pitch of the pine will "gunk" up your paper, and you will go through a ton of it.  So as Clint would say, "do ya feel lucky?" 

Two things to think about...it is Pine so you don't need to go but about a 40 Grit (if that) Perhaps then follow the rule of thumb that allows you to skip only one progression of grit...hence move to an 80. 

If you are painting the deck, you may just want to run with 60 Grit making just three passes at the deck:

1.  At about a 25-30 degree angle to parallel.
2.  Close down your angle to about 15-20 running the inverse direction.
3.  Parallel to your decking.

Timmy C
 
If I had to do it again, I'd rent the "U-sand" machine from the Home Depot.  The U-sand uses 6" ROS pads.  The Varathane machine uses 7" and you can only get them from Varathane (Lowe's or online) and there are only 3 grits available (36, 50 & 80).  6" "scuffer" pads are also available for the U-sand machine for scuffing between coats of poly.  The U-sand machine also just works better overall and puts out less dust.  I've used both and the U-sand is a superior machine.

You should be able to use either machine on your porch floor, no problem.  But again, go with the U-sand (and no, I don't work for the company).

TP

Fester said:
Toolpig 

Would this type of floor sander good choice for exterior pine porch floors?  The floors don't necessarily need to be sanded flat, just knock off the high spots and rough up the existing painted surface.  Maybe start w/ 50 grit and end w/ 80 grit, which I think is the highest you can get for the Varathane sander.  I have over 1000 sq. ft. to refinish. 

Thanks for your help.
 
Back
Top