Cumulative Questions: MFT, RO150, & Deflector

[LaserGecko]

A couple of quick questions...

MFT: Should the guide rail support be torqued a little to get it "latched"? I checked it with my squares and assume this is so. Everything is butted up against the factory stops and I'm reluctant to change them.

RO150: How hot should the rubber padded, handhold area get? It seems like mine gets hotter than it should.

Hose & Cord Deflector: I take it these are still the ones designed for the old version of the guide rail since it looks "off" by about a half inch.

OF1400 on Guide Rail & Dust: I made a 1/4" dado into MDF with the Guide Rail adapter. The amount of dust generated was astounding. I take it the gap created by the outrigger pretty much nullified any vacuum created by the CT-22. A later freehand rout with the base firmly on the MDF created the expected amount of dust (little to none).

Par for the course???? Since I'm going to be doing a lot of these dados, it looks like the secondary baseplate might be in my future.

Comments/answers appreciated!

Thanks,

 

[Brice Burrell]

A couple of quick questions...

MFT: Should the guide rail support be torqued a little to get it "latched"? I checked it with my squares and assume this is so. Everything is butted up against the factory stops and I'm reluctant to change them.

No, reset the stops.

RO150: How hot should the rubber padded, handhold area get? It seems like mine gets hotter than it should.

I don't have the RO150, I have the 125, it gets a little warm, not hot.

OF1400 on Guide Rail & Dust: I made a 1/4" dado into MDF with the Guide Rail adapter. The amount of dust generated was astounding. I take it the gap created by the outrigger pretty much nullified any vacuum created by the CT-22. A later freehand rout with the base firmly on the MDF created the expected amount of dust (little to none).

Par for the course???? Since I'm going to be doing a lot of these dados, it looks like the secondary baseplate might be in my future.

I think you answered your own question. 

 

[Dan Lyke]

No, reset the stops.

Actually, just loosen and re-tighten the bolts which hold the rail on the hinge. That's far more likely to be the source of any out-of-square than the stop positions.

 

[Brice Burrell]

No, reset the stops.

Actually, just loosen and re-tighten the bolts which hold the rail on the hinge. That's far more likely to be the source of any out-of-square than the stop positions.

Yeah, maybe I misunderstood the question, if when you torque the rail to get it latch is it still square? If so, Dan is right, if not, reset. Sorry for any confusion.
Brice

 

[LaserGecko]

Ah, got it. That makes perfect sense. The rail is a little torqued on its holder since someone was a little excited to finally see a beast like that in his garage. I'm glad I asked before I took the rail off, because I would've always wondered how the damned thing fixed itself.

Thanks, guys.

 

[Joe Jensen]

RO150: How hot should the rubber padded, handhold area get? It seems like mine gets hotter than it should.

I've used teh RO150 for up to 3 hours continuously and not noticed excessive heat...joe

 

[LaserGecko]

I placed a call to Festool today.

Re: MFT Guide Rail
One of their most Frequently Asked Questions (although I don't know if it's in the FAQ or not). Place the Guide Rail Hinge and Support against the stops. Then loosen both guide rail bolts, but keep the inside one slightly snug. Flip the rail across the table, then tighten the outside bolt to secure the position. Raise it and tighten the other one.

I found it easiest to do the above with the support and hinge at their highest position.

Re: Hot RO150
"It should cool down after about ten hours of use. Then the brushes will be seated well and it will be broken-in. Be sure to not cover the vent holes while you're using it."