Cure time for ProClassic

bkharman

bkharman

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Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
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Hey guys,

I have been painting some kitchen cabinet doors with PC and it is a real pleasure to work with!  I have used it for years on case work but using this with a mohair roller, the doors almost looks sprayed.

Two questions though...  How long before I put them up on the cabinets and is there anything is should do over them to protect a bit. For now I am stuck using my hands, brushes and rollers. I do want them to last as long as possible.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Wait at least 24 hours.

These are Pro Classic sprayed, 2 coats Multi Purpose Primer, 2 coats Pro Classic, 2 top coats of Kem Aqua +. I let these sit a day before I installed them. All sprayed out in a day (24 hours).

Tom
 

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Thanks Tom.

I assume KA+ is spray only, right?  Is there anything I should do to these doors to make them hold up a bit better?
 
KA+ is spray only. A couple of prime coats, sanded use either W&W or MP, 2 tops coats should be good. I choose to top coat these to get the sheen to match other casework I did.

Tom
 
Thanks again Tom. I used w&w as I built these doors for the kitchen.

I appreciate the info...  Onto the next step!

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Hey Bryan I've also had good luck with the Sherwin Williams waterborne poly if you need something you can brush on. 
 
Tom,

I'm curious as to why you're top coating the ProClassic with Kem Aqua Plus? I'm guessing the Kem Aqua Plus is a clear that you're either using for added protection, or to change the sheen.

Thanks!

 
Pnw painter said:
Tom,

I'm curious as to why you're top coating the ProClassic with Kem Aqua Plus? I'm guessing the Kem Aqua Plus is a clear that you're either using for added protection, or to change the sheen.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Clear in MRE for added protection.

Tom
 
I am in the process of refinishing some cabs myself. I have used PC and I feel it takes a while for it to reach full hardness or cure. I have read it could take a full 30 days.

Question regarding the Kem Aqua, I thought they sold it as a tintable product? I come from an auto painting background and wood painting projects always fall short for me.

Does spraying a hard clear over a soft latex base cause issues? It is such a thick base and then a thicker clear do you have excessive build issues? I am in the school the thinnest base product that covers and let the clear be the protection.

I just used SW Solo and feel it looks better from a rolled on perspective and also goes right over bare substrates which is great for darker color projects.

Sorry questions and answers mixed in here. I wish there was a simple accessible system. Primer, base, clear. Done!
 
bkharman said:
Hey guys,

I have been painting some kitchen cabinet doors with PC and it is a real pleasure to work with!  I have used it for years on case work but using this with a mohair roller, the doors almost looks sprayed.

Two questions though...  How long before I put them up on the cabinets and is there anything is should do over them to protect a bit. For now I am stuck using my hands, brushes and rollers. I do want them to last as long as possible.

Cheers. Bryan.
Click to expand...

Hi Bryan, A few questions about your process using a roller if you don't mind. What size roller did you use and did you tip off with a brush?  I can never get a nice finish with a roller, it always comes out with a stipple. Specifically with ProClassic.
 
polarsea1 said:
bkharman said:
Hey guys,

I have been painting some kitchen cabinet doors with PC and it is a real pleasure to work with!  I have used it for years on case work but using this with a mohair roller, the doors almost looks sprayed.

Two questions though...  How long before I put them up on the cabinets and is there anything is should do over them to protect a bit. For now I am stuck using my hands, brushes and rollers. I do want them to last as long as possible.

Cheers. Bryan.
Click to expand...

Hi Bryan, A few questions about your process using a roller if you don't mind. What size roller did you use and did you tip off with a brush?  I can never get a nice finish with a roller, it always comes out with a stipple. Specifically with ProClassic.
Click to expand...

I used a 3/16" mohair (from SW) and the trick is to not keep going over it. Load up the roller, roll it on until it looks consistent and then don't touch it!  After a few hours it looks great. Overnight, even better.

Cheers. Bryan.

dbfe76bc4d38c676135229f33adda2eb.jpg
 
I'm actually just finishing up a project using pro classic and the 6" mohair rollers and getting the same results. Looks almost like it was sprayed. Very pleased with how it turned out.
 
polarsea1 said:
Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to experiment with that combo.
Click to expand...

What does your surface look like?  (I know it is a silly question but makes a huge difference.)

I have learned over the past few years to love SW products. It is a lot like festool to me. I am going to write a quick article soon but here is the just of it...

How to work with oak cabinet cases (frames and sides):
1.  Sand down the frames and sides with Rotex 90 and ETS 150. (80 & 120)
2.  Paint liberally with SW Wood and Wall
3.  Sand with 120g
4.  Fill grain with SW Dhrink-Free spackling compound
5.  Sand (lightly) with 150 or 180
6.  Paint second coat of Wood and Wall
7.  Sand smooth with 220
8.  Smile a lot!!
9.  Top coat with Pro Classic and let sit
10.  Pat yourself on the back and amaze the wife.

Cheers. Bryan.

PS:  If you time it right, you can almost do all of the above in 1 day and all the sanding is powder. Royal stuff I tell you, royal indeed!
 
The SW wall and wood is the cat's meow for a baby butt smooth finish!!!  Love how that stuff sands down  [big grin]
 
bkharman said:
2.  Paint liberally with SW Wood and Wall
3.  Sand with 120g

6.  Paint second coat of Wood and Wall
7.  Sand smooth with 220

9.  Top coat with Pro Classic and let sit

PS:  If you time it right, you can almost do all of the above in 1 day and all the sanding is powder. Royal stuff I tell you, royal indeed!
Click to expand...

Well that's interesting. I've always used SW oil based primer because it sands so nice. Does Wood & Wall sand as smooth as oil?

Further, I've always primed once and top-coated twice, while you do just the opposite. Is only one top-coat really all that's necessary?

 
W&W is the best sanding primer I have ever used. Interior use only. Multi Purpose is a close second, can be used interior and exterior. 

I go 2 and 2. At times I top coat the top coat with KA+.

Tom
 
 
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
Thanks for the info, I'm redoing a bathroom and will try the W&W. Am already using ProClassic on the wood work so we shall see.

I'm pretty adept at most things but painting is still where I need to use my white cane. [big grin] But I want to learn. I purchased a Binks HVLP Mach 1 SL gun a number of years ago and squirted unthined latex SW house paint through it.  It worked fine but I kind of parked it and started using brushes and rollers again. For some reason painting just causes angst.
 
 
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