Question to people familiar with the OF1400.. Need to widen door jamb

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Jul 6, 2015
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Hey, hopefully the title has enough info to get the attention of the correct people. The long story short is I do management and repairs on a handful of older rental properties in West Los Angeles. At some point in the, maybe 60's or thereabouts, some of the exterior doors to the rentals were built with thinner than the current standard exterior door thickness. 1-3/8" vs 1-3/4". Some of those doors haven't been well kept up over the years so replacing them has become a bit of an issue since it's hard to find good affordable solid-core exterior grade doors without being too custom and local. The easiest way to retrofit in some of the cases without ripping out the jamb has been to widen the door strike all the way around to install the newer thickness of door. I've done it once quite successfully but it was a bear of a job because I basically, ever-so-carefully used an oscillating saw to free-hand cut the extra 3/8" of door rabbet out and smooth it out with a chisel so it was mostly nice and straight.

I've got more of those door style replacements coming up and I was wondering if there might be a way to use my OF1400 and maybe some sort of edge guide and maybe some sort of blocking to cut the extra 3/8" out of the door stop to enable me to easily fit in the newer doors. I know the corners would still require maybe 4-6 inches of hand rabbeting work but if I could get away with not having to eyeball the entire 190"+ of door stop and get a nice straight line, that would make the work far more pleasant. I considered a track saw with maybe the fsk attachment but the problem is most of the door stops over there are only maybe 2-3 inches in width which wouldn't give me the most stable foundation for running the ts60 over, plus doing that vertically just doesn't sound easy at all.

I do realize other methods could be to buy and learn to use a rabbet plane or a shoulder plane or a combination of the two, but from a preliminary search, that's also a significantly time consuming task to shave out a 3/8" x maybe 1/4-3/8" chunk of old wood frame. I'd like to avoid ripping out existing jambs primarily because I don't want to have to mess with the stucco/stucco mould as well as the re-waterproofing of the jambs since most of them are completely sound and termite/rot free, which is why I've kind of opted to go the route of a rabbet. If I'm honest, the last time I may have struck my lines, and freehanded with the oscillating saw to within an eighth to a sixteenth of the way from the line, then chiseled out the line as straight as I could. I suppose I could invest in a rabbet or shoulder plane that could have gotten me the last sixteenth of an inch around and saved me the time.. but that job is over, a new job is here, and I wanted to see what people's thoughts were of using a router or some other method vs what most likely would be a free-hand multi-tool and now combination of hand planes to accomplish this. Sorry for my somewhat scatterbrained thought process as I wrote this out.. Sometimes my brain doesn't function in the correct order, so if anything is confusing about what I am attempting to accomplish here, please ask and I'll do my best to clarify at my earliest availability.
 
I've used a router with an edge guide to do that, it's not really dificult and the 1400 with the dust collector will be perfect.

But are these machined one piece solid timber frames or is the stop nailed on? If it's nailed on which case just pull the stop off and re-nail it or even replace it.
 
I think luvmytools is onto something here. Depending on the profile, of course, it might be easier to just cut the entire stop away. This would effectively be making it flat. Something like a reciprocating saw, followed by a belt sander, should work. Then replace it with either a narrower one, or just move it back, again depending on the overall shape/width.

Trying to run an OF1400 over your head, sounds like pure torture. Even if it could be made to work, you still can't get any closer than about 6" from the corners. So, you still have to deal with that.
Applying new stop, with nice edges, will make sealing the door much easier too.
 
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