Custom MFT Top

edanielvijay

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
57
I bought a MFT3 table however I would also like to build a work bench with 20mm dia holes like the MFT top. I have OF1010 router with LR32 and also a 20 mm Euro hinge boring bit (Part# - 491072).

Has anyone used LR32 with 1010 router to drill the holes using 20mm Euro hinge boring bit or should I need to use HSS Spiral Bit (8mm shank/20mm dia) , part # = 490951).

Bec, someone told me that the 20mm Euro hinge boring bit should not be used for making holes like the MFT top.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Danny
 
I have recently done that, with an of1010, LR32 and a normal 20mm rabbet bit, and it worked good, the thing is to not set it at full speed and do it in 3 quick plunges by lifting the router out each time in order to get the chips out, works well and no burning.
the tricky part is to set the rail exactly 96mm further each time, i used the LR edge stops for positioning and putting them in the previous row of holes but it turned out not to be exact enough. Good enough for my use, but next time i will just make pencil marks.
 
Danny E said:
I bought a MFT3 table however I would also like to build a work bench with 20mm dia holes like the MFT top. I have OF1010 router with LR32 and also a 20 mm Euro hinge boring bit (Part# - 491072).

Has anyone used LR32 with 1010 router to drill the holes using 20mm Euro hinge boring bit or should I need to use HSS Spiral Bit (8mm shank/20mm dia) , part # = 490951).

Bec, someone told me that the 20mm Euro hinge boring bit should not be used for making holes like the MFT top.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Danny
Apart from using an OF1400 here is a post that may help MFT style top workbench
 
not owning an MFT or Festool clamps, I think I'm goig to do my custom MFT style top with 3/4" dog holes. Reason being, Lee valley has a selection of dogs and clamps that work in 3/4 inch holes, they're cheaper and it's just easier to do it with 3/4" holes. Am I missing something by not going 20mm besides the expense of Festool accessories? I've nothing against metric it's all fine and good, just a bit more hassle in order to get the bits to do it.

 
I was also contemplating between 3/4 inch or 20 mm but I have the tools so thought of going with 20 mm so that I can use the Qwass dogs/festool clamping elements.
 
i dont think it would matter much by going 3/4" over 20mm. if you can get the dogs and clamps cheaper then go for it.
i would go with 20mm but i have bought into the system of mfts etc.

if you are only useing it as  a worktable and a clamping table but not using it for cutting on then i woulnt bother making the holes exactly right, it will only matter if you use them for allignment
 
To be honest, I can get tops CNC'd for free. I think it's more a matter of accesories
 
The value of the ability to insert a Festool clamp into a 20mm hole in a second is substantial.

You can grind the nub off the end of some clamps in order to slide the head off so the shaft can be inserted into a 3/4" hole but it's no comparison to the above.
 
GhostFist said:
not owning an MFT or Festool clamps, I think I'm goig to do my custom MFT style top with 3/4" dog holes. Reason being, Lee valley has a selection of dogs and clamps that work in 3/4 inch holes, they're cheaper and it's just easier to do it with 3/4" holes. Am I missing something by not going 20mm besides the expense of Festool accessories? I've nothing against metric it's all fine and good, just a bit more hassle in order to get the bits to do it.

The Lee Valley wonder dogs are annoying. I have them and it takes soooooooo long to close them to the desired length. Normally I just use a dog in the bench and a dog in the tail vice and close or open that instead.

 
looked at a price comparison more closely, not much difference between LV and festool. Bessy have some f clamps that should work in an MFT style but again the price difference is nominal. 20mm it is.
 
Richard Leon said:
The Lee Valley wonder dogs are annoying. I have them and it takes soooooooo long to close them to the desired length. Normally I just use a dog in the bench and a dog in the tail vice and close or open that instead.

I wondered about that (oh, unintentional pun :)) Often considered them because I don't have a tail vise.  I need to correct that.
 
If you have an MFT top, you can use it as a template for making new tops. Clamp the MFT top onto the new top. Bore 1/2" holes through the new top, using the MFT holes to roughly center the drill bit. Accuracy is not important, as long as the drill bit doesn't contact the MFT holes--you're just hogging out some material. Finally, use a router with a flush trim bearing to match the new holes to the MFT holes. You can make a new table top of any size, by repositioning the MFT top if necessary.
 
Dear Danny,

If you are replicating an MFT top, or making a custom top, but want to use an MFT top as a remplate, then take a look at the Parf Dog video in the dealer area. One does not need to make the hole boring over complicated (it is boring after all) and so use a spiral drill bit like the one shown in the video. I made a complete replacement MFT top, including cutting all the holes and installing the screw inserts used to hold the top in place, in just 45 minutes.

If you are making a custom bench top have a long think about how many holes you actually need. I reckon in most cases that rather than a 96mm pitch one could go to 192mm (every other hole) without any serious loss of utility.

Peter
 
I too wanted the functionality of a MFT top but do not have room for another bench in my shop. I decided to modify my existing bench top which is a 4'x8' sheet of 1" Baltic Birch plywood. The first thing that I did was to check that the Festool clamp could make the turn in the 1" top - just barely. I then ordered a 20mm brad point drill bit from Amazon (About $18). I had a scrap piece of 1/2" MDF which I cut o 8"x48". Now here is the trickiest and most important step. Using a very accurate square (Woodpecker) and an electronic caliper gauge set to exactly 960mm I VERY CAREFULLY marked off points in a straight line across the 48" width of the MDF. SQUARE to the first and last point I added two more points 960mm away. I then punched and drilled 20mm holes at each mark using a forstner bit. After rechecking the measurements and squareness of the holes I had a jig. I bought two 20mm bolts from Menards to use as indexing pins and I was off and running. See attached photos. Feel free to com tact me with questions.
 
welcome to the fog orders
thats a good way to drill the holes for a clamping bench. im not sure i would trust it for laying out saw cuts. i think the holes in the jig would enlarge as you drill.

you cout round over the underside of the holes to make it easier to get the clamps in
 
That is the reason I am using a brad point bit in a vertical drilling jig. The brad point, which I carefully set before I start the drill should keep the bit from "wandering" in the jig hole. In addition there is no stress on the indexing holes at any time so they will remain true throughout the job. The thought had crossed my mind though and I am keeping a close eye on the drilling holes. Another way to minimize the risk of enlarging the holes would to use a forstner bit throughout the entire job. When I am done with the project here in the next couple of days will let you know if there was any significant run out or "play" in any of the jig holes.
 
As promised, here is the final product of my project:
Tech specs:
Measuring narrow width of pattern resulted in a 1/16" difference over 8'
Measuring long width of pattern resulted in a 1/4" difference.
Measuring a 45 degree angle at beginning and end of the project showed no discernible deviation.
Measuring guide holes in the jig at the end of the project showed a maximum diameter of 20.5mm and a minimum diameter of 20.05mm.
I find that these numbers are acceptable for using the table for cutting as well as clamping

 
I've also been thinking about replacing my vika table top with a mft like one. Can I use a peg board as reference?
 
Back
Top