Cutting board - seeking ideas and advice

rmwarren

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So I do a lot of smoking and grilling, meat, pizza and some veggies. My smokers are outside (duh...) across the main deck, down 6 steps and across the lower deck. PITA to be hustling back and forth with trays for 40-50 paces transporting meat in and out.

In the meat department we don't have a good cutting board for carving the finished product, large enough for a brisket or a couple roasts or racks of ribs, with a blood groove, etc.

What I am envisioning is a combo cutting board/transport & dare I even hope for a serving tray?!?!? After the meat is done something that I can use to transport it back inside or the the main deck, or carve it on the spot, that will contain the juices. Go right to the table and serve?

I've never seen anything like this nor can I envision what it might look like, so hoping for some suggestions.

Thanks in advance,

RMW
 
It will come to you at 2 AM. Just hope you can remember it when you wake up.

I've made a lot of cutting boards, never incorporated them into a cart as you invasion.

Tom
 
If you actually think of a design to fit your idea, one thing you MUST NOT DO is make your cutting board and end-grain board!!!

The "juices" and meat sitting on the surface as you envision will "leak" into end-grain no matter what finish you put on it. No need to go into how dangerous to your health that could cause. While it is easier on your knives to use an end-grain board, it would have very detrimental results on you and your family/guest's health. Don't do it.

Just saying.....

Frank
 
Edge grain brick pattern and a few simple ones.

Tom
 

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Here are some ideas.

The Systainer way:
Imagine a systainer where the front of the box can open as well as the top. Top goes up first after which the front opens down. Potentially all sides could be separated from the bottom as to faciliate easier cleaning. Bottom should have a drop tray to catch juices. The inside could have individual shelves each in its own slot. Dado in each side as well as the back and front. Each shelve can be separately removed and thereby allow for a mix of separate meats or a roast.

Interior could be made using hdpe which is the plastic approved cutting board material as to keep germs and cleanability to a minimum.

Top would have handle ala a systainer.

The 8020 way:
To reduce the weight of the Systainer idea one could use a 8020 frame to achieve the same. Imagine a basic cube frame of 8020. From one end of the cube shelves of cutting board could be accessed. Boards slide in on a strip of angle alu in each side. Simple alu dowel, vertically mounted, could hold the boards in place when transported. Could easily be taken a part for sanitation as well. If products tend to slide out of the sides the 8020 have handy grooves for plexi glass that could keep things in place. Handle in sides or top as necessary.

For both ideas one should probably first cut the meat after 'transportation' as to keep the juices 'mess' to a minimum. At same time achieve proper 'resting' time.

 
Tite Bond III for your glue. It is approved for food contact.

Tom
 
Hi Richard

I tried once long ago to add handles to a cutting  board, to do just what you're thinking about...but I gave it up after a while because it was somewhat awkward to handle.  I went back to the old method of carrying the meat on a ceramic platter into the kitchen and then moving it to a cutting  board.

I don't agree with what Frank says about avoiding the use of end-grain .... read the information on the John Boos website or the website for Bally Block.  I've been buying their products for 20+ years, including their recommended sealers.  I think Boos even has an approval from NSF for their butcher blocks.

Whether it's an end-grain board or  made of edge grain, it still requires care, cleaning and maintenance .  Both will do a great job of staying sanitary if they are handled correctly.

There is an article out there on the web about a scientific study of maple vs. synthetic cutting surfaces. I don't recall any conclusions from the study that said the anti-bacterial properties of hard rock maple varied based on the orientation of the grain of the wood.
 
http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2009/09/01/the-dirty-truth-about-cutting-boards.html

My point was that the OP wants to have not only raw and cooked meat on his board, but also to transport as a serving tray "with all the juices contained within".  Maybe only my opinion, but my estimation is that would be a very bad practice with any board...especially one that is more porous within the wood....like end-grain.

I agree that if a board is PROPERLY cleaned and DRIED fully, the risk is greatly reduced, and some woods (maple for one) have bacteria killing properties which are very little understood, but proven nonetheless.

As someone who had family members contract salmonella from a cutting board in the past, it is worth the effort to insure that design, build, maintenance and care are kept as high priorities...not just esthetics or convenience.

Cheers,
Frank
 
I have a very similar situation to the OP, my smoker/grill is out at the detached garage, on the opposite end of the property from the kitchen.

I love the look of wood cutting boards, but the reality is that if they were so great and so safe and cost effective, restaurants would use them (actually, I resurfaced a maple butcher block table for the local culinary program, but most restaurants go cheap).  I love my chef's knife, it's truly a fine tool, and I'd rather sacrifice the cutting board than safety or the tool.  I buy a majority of my kitchen stuff at one of the foodservice supply places.  They sell huge poly cutting boards.  I have one that's about 18" x 24", with a big groove all the way around that ends in a 2" diameter well in one corner.  It works great for two whole roast chickens or a six-pound brisket.  It's big enough that I can throw a pizza on it.  I think I paid $14 for it.  Since it gets used the least, it's lasted the longest.  You could make a cart that could hold one of these larger boards in a stainless tray.

I buy smaller sizes that get more use and get worn out.  Once they're worn out, they go to the garage.  I have a great supply of 1/2" polyethylene I can use for slides, or working up glue blocks (glue doesn't stick to it) and jigs.

I love foodservice supply stuff because it's usually pretty inexpensive and pretty durable.  I've had the same garlic press and cheese grater for at least ten years, and I don't they cost $10 put together.  They sell the Cambro canisters and trays, which come in a ton of different modular sizes, kind of like Systainers for the kitchen and pantry.
 
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
I really like the brick cutting board because it's so unusual. It's constructed of maple and ??? using TB III glue?
 
Sparktrician said:
Another source of inspiration is J. K. Adams in Vermont.

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] - that's what I was hoping for, never thought of making a concave board.

Doesn't hurt that their marketing photo has flank steak, roasted peppers and corn tortilla's... one candidate for my last meal when the time comes.

[attachimg=1]

Thanks Willie.

RMW
 

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That is interesting, but it seems more gimmicky than practical. For cutting with anything other than a steak knife ir a boning knife I think the concave surface would be more of a pain.

Perhaps something a bit more traditional like this:

[attachimg=1]

http://www.johnboos.com/new_products_single13.asp?s=r

I'm not sure you are going to find a single product solution.

for transporting stuff, I don't think you'll find a much better solution than half sheet pans. The ones with turned up edges sometimes called bun pans or jelly roll pans. Good for carrying raw food and keeping juices or marinade in and then with a clean one for bringing it back to carve.

 

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Here is my prep station at home, I like a large workspace  [wink]:

[attachimg=1]

that's a 3 inch thick by 25 inch by 48 inch end grain maple block treated with mineral oil.

The rolling tool chest has a granite slab on the top.

For raw meat, I like white HDPE in an inch thickness. It is easy to work with woodworking tools. The poly does need to be sanitized though, the cuts in the surface tend to hold microscopic amounts of material. So you need to soak it in a bleach solution occasionally.

For you I'd suggest a cart or two. Perhaps a fancier one where you will serve and a more utilitarian one at the steps. If you can store the fancy one inside I'd top it with a block and use it as a carving station for the finished meat. Or you could use a stainless top and throw a cutting board on the top. The advantage would be you could then remove it to place on the table.

I'd still use the sheet pans and the white HDPE for raw meat.

Perhaps a cart something like this:

http://www.johnboos.com/Items_page.asp?s=r&SalesCode=&Prod=2&Page=24&Group=60&hdg="CUCAV" Cucina Avanti Outdoor Cart Food Service Grade Stainless Steel Top &nsf=False&nsfc=False&csa=False
 

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I have a Big Green Egg and a Vermont Castings gas grill that my friends call, "The Queen Mary". The BGE is on the patio outside the family room and the Queen Mary is down a step and a short hop to a limestone slab I laid for it in our gravel yard. The patio is a step down from the house and the gravel is a step down from the patio so it's impractical to roll normal things to either.

To go in and out of the kitchen with raw or cooked meat, I use a traditional Corning Ware clear, rectangular casserole. A long time ago, I bought a set of 3 sizes that nest and they are great. They clean easily and can be used to cook also. Sometimes, we will have something on a cookie sheet, or whatever, that is going in the Queen and that works also. We bake, roast, make pizza, or anything else that can be done inside between the two units (BGE or QE). It can really help with the A/C in the heat of summer. The side burner on the Queen Mary is also my favorite place for frying, (deep frying, pan frying, stir frying).

Tom

EDIT:
I also have various PE cutting boards and a Boos Hard Maple board that I made out of a sink cutout. I'm not scared to use it for anything but we're fairly fastidious about cleanliness.
 
Cheese said:
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
I really like the brick cutting board because it's so unusual. It's constructed of maple and ??? using TB III glue?

The brick pattern board is edge grain cherry "bricks" with maple "mortar" joints.

I use only TB III on my boards.

All of the boards I make are reversible, flat on onside, juice groove on the other.

Tom
 
Curious about something, I was wondering if using a domino when it comes to doing the final glue up would be of any value---or is it just over kill?
 
Reading the OP, it sounds like this might for professional, rather than home, use.

Assuming that I am right, then due diligence needs to paid to the law regarding surfaces that come into contact with wood, etc.

edg
 
Green Koolaide said:
Curious about something, I was wondering if using a domino when it comes to doing the final glue up would be of any value---or is it just over kill?

Having made some cutting boards for home & gift purposes, the answer is:  It depends.  Structurally, I don't think that Domino's add any value.  But I used the Dominos for alignment purposes, both vertically & horizontally.  It that context, I found them very useful.

edg
 
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