cutting circles - carvex or router?

R

rsh

Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
41
Figured i would throw this out to see what the preferred methods are for cutting large (40" diameter and up) circles in 5/4 + hardwood - sans bandsaw

Got the carvex and accessory kit but not all that blown away and not trusting the results from test pieces. maybe blade / set up issues?

 
What problems are you seeing in your test cuts? I haven't used the fancy new circle cutter myself, but nothing about what I saw of it made me think it wouldn't be up to the task.
 
If you could give more info on what you are experiencing that would be helpful.  The circle cutter is the nicest one available for any jigsaw on the market commercially made that I am aware of.

Scot
 
everything about it originally - but then i actually read the set up instructions and tried it again with the recommended speed / stroke settings and cut direction.

after adjustments it was much much better, but the ruler still kinked repeatedly - especially when the cut/blade strayed from perpendicular.

felt like an awful lot could go bad on a piece with a large diameter cut compared to the good old router jig - could it be a blade issue? Go to a stiffer blade / more blade support?

 
It's concerning that your blade was straying from perpendicular with any degree of regularity. What was the material and what blade were you using?
 
Stiffer blade? Well I'm not trying to stir the pot or start a debate but it sounds like you want a Mafell P1CC and their Cunex blade. However that might not be the perfect solution either because I don't think their parallel guide will support a 20" radius for a 40" diameter circle.
 
75/4 fs or fsg? not sure which

started with qswo, and eventually moved to 23/32 osb to mock up a table top - osb on apron so flatness was not an issue.

has me gunshy to move it to the final product until it/me is sorted. i'll stay on it, but sometimes its so obvious you cant see it
 
rsh said:
Figured i would throw this out to see what the preferred methods are for cutting large (40" diameter and up) circles in 5/4 + hardwood - sans bandsaw

Got the carvex and accessory kit but not all that blown away and not trusting the results from test pieces. maybe blade / set up issues?
Click to expand...

If you are getting poor results check your pendulum stroke setting - it should be on position 3.

For large circles where you need a really good finish I would do the rough cut with the Carvex to within 2mm of the final size and then finish with the router. Using the router gives you loads of options for the shape of the finished edge.

Peter
 
If you have a large table saw you could do this:


I personally wouldn't try it though, I'm not an experienced woodworker and I just wouldn't feel safe trying it on a table saw.
 
Neither.

I built round tops for two of these Arts and Crafts side tables using a bandsaw and a very simple homemade jig (a dowel, a piece of MDF, and a runner made of hardwood for a miter slot):
http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/arts-and-crafts-side-table.aspx

With a little hand sanding on the machine marks the 1" thick oak tops turned out great.

If I had to cut circles again, this would be my approach.  For me it was very safe and accurate.
 
What's wrong with a router and MFS700?  I've done lots of circles, big and small, and it wouldn't occur to me to try it any other way.  I'd be amazed if a jigsaw can give you anywhere close to the quality of cut that a nice spiral cutter will.  It might take a little longer making the cut, but you'll save much more than that in clean up.

Andrew
 
The MFS700 is an intriguing tool...a future purchase for sure. If you have one, definetly use it. I have the Mafell jigsaw and Cunex blades and of course it will cut 5/4 hardwood like it's butter...but, I've also used the new Carvex with the new Carvex blades and this combo would also do a great job. I would go with Peter Parfitt's advice on changing the oscillation to setting three. Even with the Mafell jigsaw, middle settings are best for any type of curves. I would also experiment with slowing the speed just a touch. Cutting a little larger than your end target and routing the edge is the way to go. If you don't have a router, then sand to the line.
 
+ 1 for the MFS 700 and the router. Jerry Work has a very good tutorial on how to use it and it's multiple uses. It is one of my favorite accessories with my 1400

Bruce
 
well i ran out to buy the carvex + acc kit predominantly for this task to replace the router method that i had been using. the irony

 
i would always use the router

i just use any scrap lenth of ply/MDF at least 100mm wide drill a 30mm hole at one end and screw the 30mm guide bush to the ply and the router just clips to the bush and is held in place .

then just measure back from cutter edge and drill a pilot hole screw to whatever you arwe cutting and away you go

have literally done this hundreds of times

have always had an idea to make a nice adjustable reuseable jig ..but am usually too impatient to get on with whatever project in doing
 
I suppose the issue with all of this in my mind is the difference between clean and holed centres ... if you can put a hole / pilot in you work it simplifies things.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ear3
Cherry armoire
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
smorgasbord
S
J
Flush Cutting Small Odd Shaped Parts
Replies
9
Views
730
jeffinsgf
J
S
Murphy Bed in Cherry
Replies
17
Views
1K
luvmytoolz
luvmytoolz
J
Warning: Woodpeckers Semble Clamps can Ruin Woodwork
Replies
5
Views
1K
leakyroof
leakyroof
P
A good idea with improvements, but mistakes were made along the way.
Replies
6
Views
281K
Packard
P
Back
Top