cutting circles with mfs



You need to make sure that, if you want the hole as opposed to the disc, the disc cannot move relative to the workpiece once you've cut right through.  Doubled sided tape works well.

If you have any specific questions, the feel free to pm me.

Andrew
 
Roseland said:
You need to make sure that, if you want the hole as opposed to the disc, the disc cannot move relative to the workpiece once you've cut right through.  Doubled sided tape works well.

Even if you don't want the disc, you should seriously consider double side tape for the disc. When it lets go, you can have some interesting surprises. You may even need some Charmin...

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
Roseland said:
You need to make sure that, if you want the hole as opposed to the disc, the disc cannot move relative to the workpiece once you've cut right through.  Doubled sided tape works well.

Even if you don't want the disc, you should seriously consider double side tape for the disc. When it lets go, you can have some interesting surprises. You may even need some Charmin...

Tom
. Are we speaking from experience , or just a 'friend' that it happened to... [wink]
 
thanks.  i must assume there are no REAL instructional videos.....  i used the bandsaw this weekend and it worked fine after i made a "jig".  I guess i will just leave the MFS on the shelf, what a waste....
 
david fielding said:
what a waste....

Don't give up on it.  The MFS is a great accessory limited only by your imagination.  It was instrumental in my Roubo workbench build.  It effortlessly made me a better woodworker.  Brice Burrell wrote an excellent user manual you might find useful.  Brice's MFS User Manual
 
The MFS will do a better job, I reckon.  And it's just so easy to get the size right without having to make test cuts.

Andrew
 
I have been using the MFS for a couple of years now to cut speaker driver rebates and holes. 30+ and counting : )

The simplest and safest way for me is a two step/bit process.
Trammel route the driver recess first , reset diameter then route the primary hole 3/4 of the way through. Plunge through completely in only one spot, flip the baffle over and use a bottom bearing bit to complete the cutout.
This is particularly effective for me because I am normally using a chamfer or roundover bits on the backside.

I do use story sticks to accurately set the diameters, and prevent trammel insert movement. Festool really needs to improve the inserts locking mechanism, I hate cutting spirals :(
Shawn
 
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