Can I lay multiple sheets of wood that will be Dado'd on top of each other and cut each sheet and remove for the next? I have 4 sheets for a double pantry, most Dado's are identical, if I secure all of them with clamping can I cut top one then remove, cut next, then remove, is this a poor practice?
Cutting dados on multiple sheets with TS55
- Thread starter Cherilm
- Start date
nclemmons
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There's no issue with stacking sheets and cutting them one at a time. But if you are having to move the rail, not sure what the advantage or worry is on stacking. You have to reset the rail on each cut.
Further, the TS55 doesn't really cut a dado. Are you going to cut one side, then index over and cut the other and chisel out the middle?
Finally, a router is probably a better way to cut a dado if you have one.
Further, the TS55 doesn't really cut a dado. Are you going to cut one side, then index over and cut the other and chisel out the middle?
Finally, a router is probably a better way to cut a dado if you have one.
I agree, the router is the best option. I spent 7k and forgot to get the two little rails and those black pods that look like overgrown rats. So first I wanted to use the saw to mark the top of each dado, but as you say, it's not so easy after that. The other issue is I would need to make two strikes with the router using a smaller bit than needed..., because I want the fit to be tight and I don't think there is a bit that matches the nominal 3/4" size of the Baltic birch I'm cutting. The thickness is 11/16, but I want a perfect fit, the kind that hugs the board in the slot. Suggestions? The reason for stacking is to use a stop and get the same measurement on each wall of the pantry.
I'm just going to have to get the rods and rat PACs for the router to ride the rail. Why go 95% of the way and then wing it to save a few bucks? Right. Actually I was more concerned about losing time.
To be totally honest, I've list 2 days trying to figure out how to assemble the rails on the MFT. They don't exactly give you step by step instructions with pictures close up to see what it is supposed to look like. So I'll go to the store, take pics of the table assembled and get my rat PACs and come home again.
I'm just going to have to get the rods and rat PACs for the router to ride the rail. Why go 95% of the way and then wing it to save a few bucks? Right. Actually I was more concerned about losing time.
To be totally honest, I've list 2 days trying to figure out how to assemble the rails on the MFT. They don't exactly give you step by step instructions with pictures close up to see what it is supposed to look like. So I'll go to the store, take pics of the table assembled and get my rat PACs and come home again.
Two options:
Get a metric or "plywood" bit sized for the fit you want. Lee Valley is one source.
Or build a router guide jig that you adjust to fit the material. This option guarantees the fit you want and you won't need any oddball bits.
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Get a metric or "plywood" bit sized for the fit you want. Lee Valley is one source.
Or build a router guide jig that you adjust to fit the material. This option guarantees the fit you want and you won't need any oddball bits.
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Birdhunter
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I tried making plywood dados doing two passes with generally poor results. I use Baltic birch plywood.
I then bought a set of plywood specific router bits in a 3-bit set. Each bit exactly fits undersized plywood dimensions. Mine are Freud.
Problem solved. Perfect dado in one pass on the thinner plywood. If I need a deeper dado. I make 2 passes without changing the router guide.
I then bought a set of plywood specific router bits in a 3-bit set. Each bit exactly fits undersized plywood dimensions. Mine are Freud.
Problem solved. Perfect dado in one pass on the thinner plywood. If I need a deeper dado. I make 2 passes without changing the router guide.
ear3
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Get the plywood specific bits, but obviously, test it out first on scrap just to make sure. When I last worked with Baltic Birch I think I used either an 11/16 or a 17.5mm bit to make dadoes.
For batching the project, here's two options.
1. Depending upon how far away the dadoes are from the edge, you could actually use the edge guide instead of the rail if you buy some extra long rods. McMaster Carr is a good source for this -- I got three foot rods for both my 2200 (10mm) and the 1400/1010 (8mm):http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rods/=12vk2ij
2. If you use a rail make a set of story sticks/stops out of scrap (one for each end of the sheet) that you can use to set the rail relative to the edge of the board, that way you know the rail is in the exact same place every time. If you have the LR32, those hexagonal bars achieve the same thing.
If you
For batching the project, here's two options.
1. Depending upon how far away the dadoes are from the edge, you could actually use the edge guide instead of the rail if you buy some extra long rods. McMaster Carr is a good source for this -- I got three foot rods for both my 2200 (10mm) and the 1400/1010 (8mm):http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rods/=12vk2ij
2. If you use a rail make a set of story sticks/stops out of scrap (one for each end of the sheet) that you can use to set the rail relative to the edge of the board, that way you know the rail is in the exact same place every time. If you have the LR32, those hexagonal bars achieve the same thing.
If you
Cherilm said:
Holmz
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Working backwards...
1)http://festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/new-mafell-saw-mf-26-cc/
2) a table saw with a dado stack.
... The story sticks sound reasonable, with some routing.
1)http://festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/new-mafell-saw-mf-26-cc/
2) a table saw with a dado stack.
... The story sticks sound reasonable, with some routing.
A router is not the best or quickest way to cut dado's in plywood...
Go buy one of these....
View attachment 1
plus this...
View attachment 2
and you can then do this
View attachment 3
and if you have an mft/3 you can rasher out units in no time at all.
Go buy one of these....
View attachment 1
plus this...
View attachment 2
and you can then do this
View attachment 3
and if you have an mft/3 you can rasher out units in no time at all.
Attachments
Cherilm said:
A different option is to flip the problem around. Instead of trying to create a nonstandard sized dado to fit the plywood, create a standard sized dado with the bits you currently have, then rabbet the randomly sized plywood to fit the dado.
Okay, these are very good suggestions. I will go to Austin and see if they have these bits and get my router guides there. I should be able to eyeball the bit to the ply I got, it was from them. My preference would be to get the bits from Lee Valley, I need some other items from them, but I can't wait so long for the delivery. I have time off until next Wednesday I go back to work. My boss also would allow me to cancel and shift my vacation. I will think this out. That will be my second option but Austin should have the correct bits, right?
sancho57
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Austins should have ply bits. I think they sell Amana which are pretty good bits. You could also give Infinity a call and see if they can get them to you by Wenesday I really like infinity bits.
If you talking about da doing for the shelfs , make your self a story stick and use the parallel guides / guide rail.
If you talking about da doing for the shelfs , make your self a story stick and use the parallel guides / guide rail.
Birdhunter
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- Jun 16, 2012
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Amazon sells the Freud plywood router bits and they will do overnight shipping.
Dogberryjr
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Wow, what a great tool! [Checks price, passes out.]Eoj said:
waho6o9
Member
Easy peasy
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/3-pc-router-bit-set-for-undersize-plywood-1-2-shank-whiteside-470/
HTH
I use a regular cutter and move the rail up a little and get a good fit.
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/3-pc-router-bit-set-for-undersize-plywood-1-2-shank-whiteside-470/
HTH
I use a regular cutter and move the rail up a little and get a good fit.
Attachments
I went to Festool TV and now my table is set up. All of you had some great ideas. I got the set of bits for plywood, getting up the umph to start dado-ing. I have 2 tables end to end and connectors. I also got the full set of guides for both. I'm considering mirroring the set up to capture each end of the plywood. I have one fixed shelf in the middle of one pantry and the other will have 2fixed shelves so I can put my second MW on it above the counter height one. I plan on cutting holes in the above shelf so I can still use the counter light and fan if needed. If anyone knows a better way feel free to say so. I don't want to mount the MW on the back wall, etc, I just want to set it there and use it. I don't think it's an issue but if someone has tried and failed let me know.
Someone also was curious as to why stack my plywood..., I'm 5'2, eyes of blue, and I can't reach across this table like most of you. The pieces are VERY HEAVY for me. So if I do one sheet and Dado's, then add the next and do Dado's, up to four, then I can go backwards and sand them one by one taking them off. That relieves me of half of the lifting and dragging. Assembly will be tricky, but I can go outside and hail a couple neighbors to help. The clamping ability of these tables makes that a cinch.
Thank you all so much for your help. Your idea's have been a big plus and I'm ready to rock and roll.
Someone also was curious as to why stack my plywood..., I'm 5'2, eyes of blue, and I can't reach across this table like most of you. The pieces are VERY HEAVY for me. So if I do one sheet and Dado's, then add the next and do Dado's, up to four, then I can go backwards and sand them one by one taking them off. That relieves me of half of the lifting and dragging. Assembly will be tricky, but I can go outside and hail a couple neighbors to help. The clamping ability of these tables makes that a cinch.
Thank you all so much for your help. Your idea's have been a big plus and I'm ready to rock and roll.
