Cutting down 1-3/4" natural cherry doors: which TS55 blade and setup for a clean cut?

[rossn100]

I'm cutting down some custom 1-3/4" natural cherry doors, and could use some guidance as this is a first. As you can see from the image, it will involve both a cross-cut and rip.

I have an old TS55 I was planning to use, likely with some foam board under the cut. I have an old 48T blade, which has been my primary blade on the saw; it's been sharpened at least twice. I also have the panther (20T?) blade, but don't think it is the right one.

What's the best way to go about these cuts for keeping them clean? Do you think I need a different or new blade for good results? Any other tips or tricks?

Thanks!

 

[Michael Kellough]

The 48 tooth blade will bog down and burn the wood. The Panther blade will leave a ragged cut.

The Universal blade is the Goldilocks blade. Buy it.

 

[peter halle]

I would use the 28 tooth blade (the blade you don't have of course .) If you can, take a razor knife and score the out cut edge of the door (where the blade would exit) to reduce splintering.

Peter

Edit: Michael beat me to it...

 

[rossn100]

The 48 tooth blade will bog down and burn the wood. The Panther blade will leave a ragged cut.

The Universal blade is the Goldilocks blade. Buy it.

I would use the 28 tooth blade (the blade you don't have of course .) If you can, take a razor knife and score the out cut edge of the door (where the blade would exit) to reduce splintering.

Peter

Edit: Michael beat me to it...

Peter and Michael - awesome. I'm so glad I asked and thankful for your help. Will get the 28T. Any other tips besides putting foam or MDF under the cut surface?

Also, I'm thinking I should run a 1/16" roundover across the edges after the cut, even though it will leave a sliver visible without finish. Good or bad idea?

 

[waho6o9]

Don't complicate it.
"Also, I'm thinking I should run a 1/16" roundover across the edges after the cut, even though it will leave a sliver visible without finish. Good or bad idea?"
If you want to break the edge I'd use a sandpaper block and lightly break the edge. The roundover bit would work as well.
All the Best


The Universal blade is the Goldilocks blade. Buy it.

Great advice ^

 

[rossn100]

Ok, I was just trying to prevent any issues, should something get caught under the door.

As I remodel my home, I've been using the only blade I've had, the 42T. It sounds like I should gravitate towards using the 28T for general use?

1) For this type of use (ripping dimensional lumber, plywood, etc), should I use a cheaper 3rd party blade?
2) Given the use I've had of the 42T for the life of the saw, if the blade isn't warped, is there any issue sharpening it and using it for fine woodworking in the future, or likely it's designated for construction use, going forward?

 

[peter halle]

Plywood is best with the 42. Most other things can be handled with the Universal. If you are ripping dimensional lumber and want to use a track saw, then the Panther. For plywood where you don't care entirely about the quality of the cut but you are just going for straight cuts then the 28 or for better cuts the 42. Sharpened 42 tooth blades are great for plywood.

Hope this makes sense.

Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

Ok, I was just trying to prevent any issues, should something get caught under the door.

As I remodel my home, I've been using the only blade I've had, the 42T. It sounds like I should gravitate towards using the 28T for general use?

1) For this type of use (ripping dimensional lumber, plywood, etc), should I use a cheaper 3rd party blade?
2) Given the use I've had of the 42T for the life of the saw, if the blade isn't warped, is there any issue sharpening it and using it for fine woodworking in the future, or likely it's designated for construction use, going forward?

Actually the blade I linked is not for your saw. It has the newer narrower kerf while your saw needs a 2.2mm kerf for the splitter to work. So a little homework is needed to find the older style. Shouldn’t be difficult.

As for cheaper third party blades I have used this one and it worked fine. But it too is too narrow for your splitter blade.

Put the Universal blade on your saw and only swap to one of the other blades as necessary. If there is excessive splintering of the surface veneer when cutting plywood switch to the 42 tooth blade. If cutting dimensional lumber is too slow switch to the Panther, especially if ripping.

 

[MacBoy]

If you are aiming to get closer to perfection:

Instead of the Foam, you can use a sacrificial piece of plywood.

That will provide support for the underneath cuts, and give you the cleanest cuts.