Cutting gaps between deck boards

[whk]

I'm asking advice about fixing the following problem:

I've got an ipe deck where the floor boards were installed with gaps that were too small or non-existent.  This isn't a major problem, but when it rains, water drains off more slowly, and it gives slippery mold and mildew more time to grow than otherwise.  The boards are attached to the joists with metal brackets.  These brackets run along the length of the joist and are screwed into the joists and straight up into the deck boards. 

So the point is that in the gaps between the deck boards there are no screws, or metal, or clips, but as they cross the joists they are just a hair above the metal brackets.

I've got the TS55 plunge saw and a 55" guide, and I'm thinking of lining the guide up along each pair of boards, and cutting to a depth of 25 mm.  (The decking is 1" thick).

Do you think this is going to work?  Can you think of something better?  No matter what my plans, I suppose I'll end up nicking a steel bracket every now and then, so maybe I need to start with some sort of less expensive/utility blade.  What blade would you recommend?

Thanks,
Will

 

[Jonhilgen]

I understand your concern about hitting the metal brackets.  Maybe try the Panther ripping blade?  I've heard so-so reviews about it, but it might just be the blade for the job, since the edges won't be that visible.  I can't speak as to the cost of the blade though, but I would think it would be cheaper than a standard 48t blade?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you set the depth just right you should barley nick them. 

Buy the 12t universal blade, it is the cheapest of them all.

 

[tDot]

25mm = 1" then add another 5mm for the rail thickness.

Do the boards have a bullnose on them?  If they do, you'll have to take off an even amount from each board, to ensure that they look uniform.

My understanding of the Panther blade is that it can leave a pretty rough edge.  Even though the sides of the board are not exposed, you may see the tops of the tooth marks, in the form of nicks.  I'd be tempted to use a better blade, set to 0.5mm above the bottom and then use a knife to trim the bottom side of the board.  That way you have a nicer finish on the top, and you dont damage your blade.

 

[Hotwheels]

I recently used the TS55 to trim some Ipe boards on my deck project. I was able to set the blade so that it just barely cut through the boards. Every so often there was a penetration into the joists, but not much. Attached ( I hope) is an image of how it worked out for me ... I would think you might be able to miss the clips if the depth is set just right or at least just nick them in such a way that it would not do much harm to the blade ...

 

[whk]

Thanks everyone.  As soon as it warms up and dries out, I'm going to do it.  I'll assemble some scraps and make sure I can do the job (hopefully) without destroying any blades.

 

[jamesclerie]

why not just unscrew the deck boards and reinstall them with proper spacing? Some times we are so quick to use our tools that we over look the proper way of doing a job.

 

[whk]

"why not just unscrew the deck boards and reinstall them with proper spacing? Some times we are so quick to use our tools that we over look the proper way of doing a job."

Respacing the boards by moving them would be a major pain since it would slightly increase the overall size of the deck.  But removing them, shaving off a millimeter or two, might be a really good idea for some hard to access boards (and maybe it would justify the purchase of more tools).

 

[woodguy7]

You would only need to remove every second board.  I think this would be your best solution.

Woodguy

 

[greg mann]

You might also run your blade once just about the clips and then go back again, without having moved the rail, and go deeper between the joists.