Cutting IPE with TS55REQ

CT-Mike

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Jan 29, 2014
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So SWMBO has decided that we are taking down a portion of the deck to put in an outdoor kitchen island. What is the best blade to use in my TS55 for cutting Ipe (or Pau Lope as it was called when I bought it)?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Agreed.  I've cut lots of IPE and other not quite so hard woods and I'm still on the combi blade.  The rip blade does a nice job too.  I field jointed with the rip blade very nicely.
 

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Hey guys.

New TS 55 Owner.  In fact, it's my first Festool at all.  This forum is much appreciated.

I built an Ipe & rosewood dining table last year with another track saw and Makita saw set up for that track....  I went through numerous blades!  Do you think it was it was jus the high number of cuts that I had to make?  or is it that the festoon blades are that much better than other brands? 

I ask because i have another table to build this winter that will require just as many cuts (rips)

would love your feedback.

G
 
I would use a lower tooth count blade for lots of rips, plus clean the blade regularly.  Lots of pitch build up with ipe.
 
Hey Mike-
      I work with Ipe all the time and when I rip with the track saw I use the ripping blade. It works great for that. We also use combo blades on the chop saw that work no problem. The problem with IPE is its so dam dense and hard which obviously cause the blades to dull quick. You probably know this already. Good luck man!!

Justin-
 
The standard blade on my Kapex powered through enough Ipe to build 9 outdoor benches and still cuts nicely. I do believe the Festool blades are excellent. I found that treating the exposed ends of the board right after the cut eliminated checking. A couple of boards I missed treating developed cracks. Superglue squirted into the crack stopped the splitting.

I found wiping the areas to be glued with alcohol just prior to gluing made the glue work a lot better. I used both 2-part epoxy and Titebond III. I also backed up the critical joints with mechanical  (screws) joinery where it didn't show. I also used the Festool outdoor tenon stock. Probably wasn't necessary, but these benches are outside all the time.

I'm sure you know that Ipe sawdust can really mess up your lungs and skin. Some people react strongly and some less so.
I wear a dust mask and long sleeves when I'm cutting Ipe and I shower immediately after I finish the cutting.

I would be interested in how you finish your Ipe.
 
Birdhunter said:
...I found that treating the exposed ends of the board right after the cut eliminated checking. A couple of boards I missed treating developed cracks. Superglue squirted into the crack stopped the splitting.
What do you use to treat the ends?

Thanks, Mike A.
 
Make sure you seal the ends right away after cutting.  I've seen IPE split within hours.  Once it begins, the only way to stop it is cut shorter.
 
End checks/cracks can be repaired with West Systems Penetrating Epoxy.  It works real well with oily dense woods and flows into the smallest cracks.  Use painters tape to dam off the crack and apply a little at a time.

Jack
 
jacko9 said:
End checks/cracks can be repaired with West Systems Penetrating Epoxy.  It works real well with oily dense woods and flows into the smallest cracks.  Use painters tape to dam off the crack and apply a little at a time.

Jack

Don't give away all the secrets.
 
Don't give away all the secrets.
[/quote]

If they are not passed on, who will carry on when the knowledgeable are gone? [scared]
 
There are somethings I do/build/repair that I would prefer that my competition can't find and won't find out.

 
WarnerConstCo. said:
There are somethings I do/build/repair that I would prefer that my competition can't find and won't find out.

I can understand that for sure.  However, after seeing some of the nice stuff you do in your posts here on FOG; with the skills you have, I don't think you have to worry about the competition.  [big grin]
 
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