Cutting Lexan ?

jjj

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Anyone have success cutting Lexan or Plexiglass? Is there a blade for Kapex that works best? I have tried a hot razor blade, utility knife, and jig saw, none of which produce great results.....
 
jjj said:
Anyone have success cutting Lexan or Plexiglass? Is there a blade for Kapex that works best? I have tried a hot razor blade, utility knife, and jig saw, none of which produce great results.....

What saw do you want to use? I guess the shape and size of the piece makes a difference on which tool you decide on. They make blades for that very purpose for table and track saws. For me a table saw always worked best for squares and I use my cnc router for anything else. The CNC router cuts it great, I assume a hand router would work just as well. A spiral O flute bit works best for me.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052INKDY?tag=vglnkc3333-20
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5879-so...stic-cutting-up-cut-down-cut-router-bits.aspx
 
A track saw with the standard lade does well. I turned the speed way down.
 
Like Holmes said, the key is to reduce the blade speed. This is a great use of the variable speed on the Kapex. The slower speed will prevent melting. Same on the TS saws for cutting plastics.
 
If your going to have exposed edges, practice flame polishing them.

Tom
 
I'm not completely sure anout lexan, but Hyzod polycarbonate is easy to trim with a handplane. Acrylic sheet is harder and more brittle than polycarbonate/Lexan. The acrylic also stinks when you cut it.
 
Holmz said:
A track saw with the standard lade does well. I turned the speed way down.
A blade with negative hook is best for safety. Plus will keep it from chipping out. In other words get a plastic blade.
 
Using 1/8" lexan I've had good luck with an 80t plywood blade on the table saw and the standard 60t blade on the Kapex. If you're having issues with chip out, sandwich it between 2 pieces of plywood.
I've also had nice results running the cut edges on my jointer set at 1/32" height.
Easy enough to send the edges from around 220 grit- 320.
I've used a fair amount of it for utensil/ cutlery divides, shoe shelves and pantry pull outs.
 
Rip Van Winkle said:
The acrylic also stinks when you cut it.

Think so Rip? I find that polycarb/lex stinks. I cut acrylics all day
and once polycarb/lex gets in the mix it smells and I start sneezing
sometimes.

Running some #000/0 steel wool on a sanded edge yields a nice luster sheen.
 
I do plastics fabrication, use a triple chip grind blade, preferably an aluminum/plastics blade with negative rake.  I cut up to 1/2" acrylic with an AGE blade in my 55 and 75http://www.toolstoday.com/p-6095-festool-and-other-track-saw-machine-compatible-saw-blade.  I use Freud and Amana industrial blades in my chop saws and table saws.  Both plastic and aluminum blades  have a -5 degree negative rake and angle.  If you are routing you can use a spiral bit but will get better results with straight cutters and even better results with O flute plastic bits.  If you are looking for clear edges use a scraper and then flame.  Polycarbonate does not flame well,so requires sanding.  The higher grit you go the better the results.  Buy one of the headlight or acrylic paint polishing kits, they are pretty much what the airplane industry uses to clean windshields and windows.
 
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