Cutting outlet in base
- Thread starter geo4848
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Tim Morris
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The MFS would work great as Allen said. If you don't want to drop the coin on that one could make a plywood template over sized enough to clamp, indicate center lines on the jig and use a pattern, or top bearing, bit.
Like the other posters, I'm a big fan of the MFS. It makes cutouts like this a breeze, as long as you have room for it. And if you don't have room, it will help you make a custom template quickly, easily and accurately. I'd recommend a guide bush that is an even number of millimetres - it makes the math much easier!
I don't think you need a special bit. Having said that, I do find spiral up cut bits are much smoother and easier than standard two flute cutters.
Andrew
I don't think you need a special bit. Having said that, I do find spiral up cut bits are much smoother and easier than standard two flute cutters.
Andrew
Brice Burrell
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Roseland said:
I agree with Andrew on the upcut spiral bit.
tjbnwi
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I just did enough of these to fill a CT 22---------------twice in two days on the same job.
Make your template out of 3/4" plywood.
I used the MFS to make mine. The other way to make the template is to use rips of ply about 3" wide by 6" long. Wrap the box with 3-4 wraps of duct tape, place a long edge along the long edge go the box making sure a short edge is aligned to a short edge. Place a piece to form an ell, join with pocket screws, place along the next long edge and join, add the 4th piece, you should now have a pattern of the box. The duct tape gives you a little space between the jig and a box. Use this jig to make your template. I made a master then a field template from it just incase. Good thing I had the master, i did have an opps. Easier to do than explain.
Instead of the centerline, mark one vertical edge and one horizontal edge of the box on the base. Useing the centerline you have to "look" it in place, using the edges is more accurate.
Use this bit it has a short cutter and you can add a second bearing for added surface;
http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/17585
Set the depth so it leaves about a 32nd of an inch, you don't want the slug to break loose and jamb against the bit. Once you set the depth, make sure you set the depth stop. Dust extraction is a must.
Tom
Make your template out of 3/4" plywood.
I used the MFS to make mine. The other way to make the template is to use rips of ply about 3" wide by 6" long. Wrap the box with 3-4 wraps of duct tape, place a long edge along the long edge go the box making sure a short edge is aligned to a short edge. Place a piece to form an ell, join with pocket screws, place along the next long edge and join, add the 4th piece, you should now have a pattern of the box. The duct tape gives you a little space between the jig and a box. Use this jig to make your template. I made a master then a field template from it just incase. Good thing I had the master, i did have an opps. Easier to do than explain.
Instead of the centerline, mark one vertical edge and one horizontal edge of the box on the base. Useing the centerline you have to "look" it in place, using the edges is more accurate.
Use this bit it has a short cutter and you can add a second bearing for added surface;
http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/17585
Set the depth so it leaves about a 32nd of an inch, you don't want the slug to break loose and jamb against the bit. Once you set the depth, make sure you set the depth stop. Dust extraction is a must.
Tom
geo4848 said:
assuming you are pulling the devices out of the boxes and putting them back in afterwards.....
you now have the box buried back in the wall at least the distance of the thickness of the
base, and possibly more... it's an electric code violation to have the box buried, and if
you get a persnickety electrical inspector, he will shoot you down....
they make plastic device shields that make your install code compliant. they are slightly
tapered to fit inside the mud ring or plastic box, and keep the device away from combustable
material.
you won't get them at home desperate, but any good electrical wholesale house will have them.
avoid the metal ones, for the obvious reasons.
Deansocial
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I hate to see sockets in base, can'tdo it over here any more
tjbnwi
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The ADA does not allow a receptacle to be less than 15" above the finished floor. Unless it is a really, really, really tall base the install would violate the federal and most state adopted codes.
This is the extension that was mentioned;
http://www.amazonsupply.com/arlington-be1-5-electrical-outlet-extender/dp/B00303FYHS?ref_=goo_pf_B00303FYHS
I just move the boxes or install deeper rings, code is 0" to the face of a combustable surface.
Tom
This is the extension that was mentioned;
http://www.amazonsupply.com/arlington-be1-5-electrical-outlet-extender/dp/B00303FYHS?ref_=goo_pf_B00303FYHS
I just move the boxes or install deeper rings, code is 0" to the face of a combustable surface.
Tom
Julian Tracy
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- Oct 25, 2007
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- 529
The right tool for that job is a multimaster of some brand with a good blade from Bosch or Fein... Each outlet cutout would take 2minutes and be perfect.
Go through all the boxes and tuck the wires to the back, mark the center of each junction box location and install the base blind. Go back with the multitool with a template for tracing and plunge cut each out with the wires still in the box.
Doing this with any other tool just seems like trying to find a reason to use the fancy tools...
JT
Go through all the boxes and tuck the wires to the back, mark the center of each junction box location and install the base blind. Go back with the multitool with a template for tracing and plunge cut each out with the wires still in the box.
Doing this with any other tool just seems like trying to find a reason to use the fancy tools...
JT
score0matic
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why don't you just use a Multimaster? It is the Best tool for that job.
Chris Hughes
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We have installed tons of the Leutron style boxes in base. My preferred technique is a template and router but my partner insist on a jigsaw and chisel. With the Leutron boxes you have to recess the tabs so the plate mounts thinner.
BrotherBrian
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- Sep 16, 2012
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On my finish crew we have found that having the electricians tack their romex onto the sole plate where they want it gives us the opportunity to adjust horizontally for centering between casings, hearths, etc. We use a 2 3/8"x 3 7/8" cut out jig indexed off the top of the base.
After cutting the base to length, and while the base is still on the miter stand, we measure horizontally for location, place the jig on the base, scribe the four sides of the box, drill holes at two corners, caddy corner to each other and have at it with a jigsaw.
It seems to me that having to secure a jig for routing would take a good bit of time, but having never seen it done I'm only guessing. The system as I've described works great for us, but YMMV.
After cutting the base to length, and while the base is still on the miter stand, we measure horizontally for location, place the jig on the base, scribe the four sides of the box, drill holes at two corners, caddy corner to each other and have at it with a jigsaw.
It seems to me that having to secure a jig for routing would take a good bit of time, but having never seen it done I'm only guessing. The system as I've described works great for us, but YMMV.
