I cut it a lot, using a blade intended for solid surface material. They are fairly high tooth count (72), carbide teeth, triple chip grind, with -5 degree rake. The ones from Festool, for plastics, that work with a TS55 just fine too. It just depends on how you want to go about it.
I have no problem cutting it on a table saw, if the protective paper is still on it. If that has been removed, I would rather use the TS55. That reduces the chance of scratching, since you are not sliding the piece in the saw.
The worst part is usually drilling. A hand drill wants to grab/snag as it breaks through the back side and the piece has a tendency to lift up at that point, when using a drill press. This action can be reduced/eliminated by slightly dulling the cutting edges of the drill bit. Just a couple of swipes with a hand stone is good enough. This is also best-practice when drilling brass, it does the same thing.
In machinist circles, this is called "brassing off" a drill bit.
A fair percentage of the acrylic panels that I cut have "things" trapped between layers, so flame polishing is out of the question. I polish those with the RO90, ordinary sandpapers up to p500. Then I switch to some foam discs that go to p2500. After that, Novis plastic polish with a felt disc.