Cutting stainless steel with the TS 75

that is very good to know. come in handy for cutting kickplate on site nice and straight
 
Cool video.

Having cut an assortment of metals on tablesaws in the woodworking environment a few points ought to be made.

Safety kit, safety glasses (full face mask preferable) and hand protection should be used.
Proper blade for the material.(free of defects like missing or broken TC tips)
Zero clearance sub-base or insert ( especially on table saws )
As in the video, slow feed speed and slow blade speed.
Ensure all swarth (metal 'sawdust') is cleaned from tooling/guarding before future use.

Dust extraction does not always work well with metal, so keep that in mind,

So far I've not damaged me, the machine or the blades, so it pays to take care.

Rob.
 
Very very nice!

I bought s diamond blade for the TS75 and i find out it will cut stainless bonus
glad i bought a new TS75 2days ago to go with its little brother so far i preferrer using my TS55 because its lighter feel like i can work quicker and run about with it more as the 75 i feel like i gotta hold it with two hands as i can feel it wants to push pack when plungeing  and because its new i place it down very softly lol but i know it will come in for cutting oak as the ts does struggle.

Jmb
 
JMB:

Don't forget to use a guide rail stop behind the saw if you are blind plunging. There should be one on the saw itself.

Tom
 
i thing this was mis stated  as i have cut many feet of diffarent types of metal including stainless with the ts and mill blade and i can say that the metal blade cuts
vary slowly when cutting 16ga stainless i can't think of what you would use 1/8" goods for in fact i think there cutting 18ga mat'l not 1/8"

 
Tom Bellemare said:
JMB:

Don't forget to use a guide rail stop behind the saw if you are blind plunging. There should be one on the saw itself.

Tom

Cheers,

First thing i notice when i got the saw out of it's box was the stop. I will be using it for a plunge cut.

i also notice they have changed the position where to store the alan key and  looking underneath the saw they have changed the two guide adjusters things which remove any play between the guide and the saw. I wonder why it's different to the ts55

Jmb
 
neat

is there a table or a source - listing what blades / depths / materials the TS55 and TS75 are suitable for?

I don't immediately need to do this, but I tend to work in wood almost exclusively be cause I have invested in suitable tools. 

That might just stimulate some alternatives...
 
I haven't found too much on this,  but have been wondering if anyone here uses any Festools for cutting any metals,  and how your tools look after a couple run-ins in this different medium?  ???

I'd like to pickup the metal cutting blade for my TS75  + a few other misc metal blades for the Trion,  BUT!  I have quite a bit of experience at using woodworking tools for metal,  both ferrous and non,,  and I know without a doubt that the tools never were the same afterward...

"Are Festools engineered to handle cutting metals without ruining the tool in any way?"  -that's what I really want to know,  before I even think about having any such blades "on hand"  let alone making contact with aluminum, steel,  -let alone stainless.
and any advice, suggestions and especially photos would be greatly appreciated.

 
stairman said:
I haven't found too much on this,  but have been wondering if anyone here uses any Festools for cutting any metals,  and how your tools look after a couple run-ins in this different medium?   ???

I'd like to pickup the metal cutting blade for my TS75   + a few other misc metal blades for the Trion,   BUT!  I have quite a bit of experience at using woodworking tools for metal,  both ferrous and non,,  and I know without a doubt that the tools never were the same afterward...

"Are Festools engineered to handle cutting metals without ruining the tool in any way?"  -that's what I really want to know,  before I even think about having any such blades "on hand"  let alone making contact with aluminum, steel,  -let alone stainless.
and any advice, suggestions and especially photos would be greatly appreciated.

I suppose that's a pretty hard question to answer.  I'm sure there are guys out there cutting enough metal to know, we'll see if any are on this forum.  My personal experience is somewhat limited but I have cut aluminum and brass with my TS55 with no ill effects.  I've cut aluminum dozens of occasions with my Kapex, again, no problems so far.
 
I've cut aluminum and steel several times with my Trion and it works great, goes through aluminum like "butta". I have customers that are cutting aluminum sheets and profiles with the TS 55 and TS 75 on a regular basis and non have complained.

I would use the Spark Trap as waho pointed out. It is also useful if you are vacuuming up chunks. It knocks them down into the bottom of the trap so they don't go flying into the bag and rip it.

Tom
 
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