Cutting think stock with parallel guides (Woodpecker or TSO)?

[GregorHochschild]

Hi,

I have been following this group for a while! Thanks for all the insights.

I am using a MFT table made with Parf 2 for most of my track saw cutting. Works pretty well but I am having problems with thin stock. I do manage parallel rip cuts of maybe 6'' below the rail but anything less gets problematic. I have to do a lot of 1/2'' hard wood edge banding right now without access to a table saw. Right now I have to use the offcut piece from a rip cut but basically have to stop when my board is 6''. A lot of waste. So I am looking for a better solution.

How well do parallel guides work with thin stock? Woodpecker or TSO? How far can I push it with the hardwood edge banding?

Or should I just extend the fence on the MFT table? Other jigs people have used?

Thanks!

 

[Peter_C]

Are you using support boards under the rail? I would butt them up to the board you are cutting.

I have used my Woodpeckers system a fair amount for cutting thin stock, but a tablesaw is superior, and my preference for doing more than a couple of cuts.

 

[HiCal]

One trick you do when making edge banding is to glue a wider piece of the banding material to the board you are banding then rip off the extra with the T.S. This allows you to use less clamps as well. 

 

[tjskinny]

Here is one type of jig;
https://www.flutterby.net/Festool_Rip_Jig

Others have made something similar jigs.

 

[Roseland]

This is how I cut think or tapered stock:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...tapered-legs-with-a-ts55/msg590082/#msg590082

Andrew

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Andrew, I just went to your link and really like your method.
If one wanted to make such an L-shaped extension to fit on an MFT, how would one attach it to the side extrusion?
I’ve seen tracks that might work, but again, what’s the best way to attach to the side of the MFT?

 

[Roseland]

I made mine fit my other bench, because I wanted a greater length than an MFT/3 would allow, but if I was making it for the MFT I'd just use the slot in the vertical face of the extrusion.

The weight is taken mostly on the wood being cut, and one just needs to make sure one doesn't push the saw sideways and tip the rail.  I've never had an issue with that.

I mostly use it for cutting half-inch strips of hardwood edging to glue on birch plywood prior to veneering the faces.

Not only is it very quick and easy to use, it also ensures the pieces are all exactly the same width, which make subsequent calculations simple.

Good luck,

Andrew

 

[rst]

I just cut up $15,000.00 worth of acrylic today with Festool's parallel guides and my 118" rail...needed 6 1/4"x 8' strips.  Crosscut the differing lengths with the TSO square guide... easy peasy ... five hours

 

[GregorHochschild]

Thanks everyone!! I will have to study these options.

I mostly use it for cutting half-inch strips of hardwood edging to glue on birch plywood prior to veneering the faces.

Andrew, I am interested in your process. You glue hardwood edge banding to plywood, and then veneer the entire board covering both the plywood and the 1/2'' hardwood, right? Do you use a press, contact cement or a different adhesive for the veneer? What backer do you use for the veneer (10 mil, 20 mil)? I am asking because I am planing the same process with contact cement and veneer with 20mil backer. I am a little concerned that the veneer with 20mil is almost to thick. I measure about 0.75 mm. It doesn't get covered by edge banding because the veneer covers the hardwood edges. Does that make any sense?

 

[Roseland]

Yes, I glue a strip of hardwood, typically half an inch thick by a quarter of an inch deeper than the shelf, to the edge, using Titebond 3.  I then trim off the excess using the edging accessories for my OF1010, as described here:
http://greenanddarkblue.blogspot.com/2012/06/festools-edge-routing-accessories.html

I use Titebond Cold Press Veneer Glue, which is available in different sizes.  Be warned that it needs stirring before use, and only the 16oz package allows you to do this well; the others have a handle moulded in which stop you getting a stick to the bottom of the container.  Best to store it upside down.

The veneer I use has no backing paper; just 0.6mm (~24mil) wood.

I just use clamps, lots of them, to apply the pressure.  Normally I have similar sized components (the other side panel, or other shelves) to spread the load.  Just make sure you have a sheet of polythene or similar to stop glue that has bled through the veneer sticking it to the bench.

I leave it 24 hours before unclamping, because I tend to put lots of glue on (better than skimping!) and I want to make sure it's fully set.

If you have any further questions just ask on the forum or PM me.  Good luck.

Andrew

 

[capww8]

The last few times I’ve cut narrow stock I’ve used a support piece of the same dimension to act as a fence underneath the track - I’ve don’t this many times and it’s always a little nerve-wracking... then I had a breakthrough - same setup, but using double sided tape to attach both the support piece and the piece I’m cutting to the MFT. Total game changer, way easier, more confident, more stable.

 

[Roachmill]

I've done this aplenty with parallel guides with great and easily repeatable results. Using a ruler with a stop set to the thickness you want you can flip it upside down and slide it in under the rail - butting the stop up against the splinter strip. You then slide the parallel guide thin rip dohicky up against the end of the ruler (thicker rules work better like the woodpecker ones in this respect). Repeat the process for the other guide. For common thicknesses you can make setup blocks to speed up the process.

You do need to add support for the rail (typically under the accessory slot and either end) using offcuts of the same thickness as your stock but that's usually easy enough.

Parallel guides that let you position them where you want them (i.e. not at the very start and ends of your stock) offer more flexibility especially with long thin stock (to lessen potential flexing of the stock). Senica and TSO guides would be a recommendation as they both have thin narrow rip guides which allow you to work with very thin stock. The Woodpeckers look lovely but having to join the bars together looks like it would get old real quick.

 

[TSO_Products]

I'm just taking a break from working on TSO Videos -yes,  I know its' about time  [sad] - and it will show what is described  above.  Look for a title in  the next couple of months:

"Narrow stock cutting made simple"  and another segment titled
"Calibrating made simple".

It is harder to explain in writing than to actually do, especially once you have seen it demonstrated.

We'll brag about it in one of our infrequent TSO INSIDER newsletters.

Hans