cutting vinyl siding with a Kapex

dicktill

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from another thread (sorry, started a new thread because the subject of the other wasn't germane [wasn't German either]):

Rick Christopherson said:
Turning the blade around backward is an old wive's tale that unfortunately won't die. It comes about from using the wrong blade on miter saws, but it has morphed into always doing it for all vinyl and aluminum siding regardless what type of saw or blade is used. It gets repeated without proper application, and that is what is so dangerous about it.

You should never turn a carbide tipped blade backward for any reason. In the event you feel the need to turn any blade backward, it is an absolute sign that you are using the wrong blade for the task. It is effectively turning a positive hook angle blade into the more proper negative hook angle blade that should be used. It is also a sign that your blade depth is too deep. That's why it originally began with mitersaws, because they don't have the effective hold-down that a circular saw has between the workpiece and the center of the blade. The aggressiveness of a positive hook blade will pull a thin workpiece toward the center of the blade, and for a mitersaw this will result in a sudden explosion of the workpiece as it gets grabbed and pulled upward.

As for circular saws, it should never be necessary....Ever. Even when using the wrong blade, it means your blade depth is too deep.

It should also never be done with carbide tipped blades. That is just asking for a projectile to come loose.

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What would be the correct blade to use for cutting vinyl siding with a Kapex? Right now I have the standard 60 tooth blade plus the fine 80 tooth blade.

Thanks, Dick
 

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The blades you have will work fine, although I think either the solid surface/laminate blade or aluminum/plastic blade might be optimal for prolonged cutting of siding.
 
I bought my kapex specifically for cutting vinyl drywall trims and the manufacturer of said trims recommended a fine tooth run backwards and it cuts through it like butter, I did try it running the proper direction and it just chipped and cracked the vinyl like crazy. I do want to try the solid surface blade but kinda sucks spending $150 to try something out.
 
Thanks for the replies. In my original post, I also should have asked for advice on the saw speed, and whether I'd be better off cutting with my TS55. Have the standard (28T) and fine (48T, but not the solid surface/laminate one) blades. (It's pretty obvious to me that I shouldn't use the 12T Panther blade that I also have.)

Regards, Dick
 
Hi all,

Thanks again for the various replies. Here's a "progress report" on what I've found. This is not very scientific and YMMV.

I used a brand new fine 80 tooth Kapex blade (495387). I tried various "speeds and feeds", and had chipping trouble with all of them, especially on some 20 year old siding (probably is pretty brittle from UV exposure), but even on some brand new siding. What I finally stumbled upon by watching the cutting action carefully, is that the plunge part of the cut went pretty well on speed 6, but feeding (slow or fast) tended to chip as the teeth cut upward. I changed by methodology to what I call "grasshoppering": I plunge - lift - feed - plunge - lift - feed - plunge, and usually get pretty good results.

Regards, Dick
 
You might try setting the depth of cut much shallower. How deep is the blade dipping?

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

Hmmm, good point that I hadn't thought of. So used to cheap chop saws that I forgot that the Kapex was adjustable. I'll try that tomorrow. But, one problem I already foresee is that the siding is "double five", in other words two 5" simulated slats that are each angled, so the depth of cut is going to vary as I feed. What to do ...

Thanks, Dick
 
I sounds like a tricky cut, Dick...

If I understand the shape of the work piece, it could easily require variable feed rate. That's always a little tricky but something that is somewhat normal with odd-shaped work.

Tom
 
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