Cutting with a Bristled Tool

Scott B.

Magazine/Blog Author
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Not to get all morbid and stuff, but when I pass on and go up to the pearly gates or where ever it is that painters go, if I am only allowed to bring one painting tool with me, it will most definitely be a brush. To some, this would probably seem to be confirmation that you have landed in Hell. But to me, it would be pretty cool.

In my life I have put more miles on a paint brush than any other paint tool.

In this world of sprayers, brushing is becoming a lost art. Everyone wants to learn to spray, no one wants to use a brush.

For the most part, if I am doing a grab and go to paint something in a hurry and with good enough quality and production, I am grabbing a brush and heading on up the ladder.

It's like a crusty old carpenter with a sidewinder circ saw.

Anyways, just so no one can ever say that the FOG doesn't deal with manual skill proficiencies, here are my tips on improving your brush game. (even if you don't have one...in which case, you should get one)

http://topcoatreview.com/2013/12/brush-cutting/
 
Your video shows the technique pretty well. A very important part of the brushing is indeed learning the motor skills. Took me quite a while to get that fully tuned too. Difficult part in it is to make sure you don't veer off at the end, because your natural hand movement wants to go in a circle instead of straight. Your tip of sneaking into a line is also very important. Use the first stroke to lay down the body of the paint, just shy of the edge, and use the second or third stroke to fill it out straight up to the edge.

What I didn't see in the video but I also think are important factors, are these two things: make sure you always dilute the paint to the proper viscosity to get the best flow through your brush. Too thick and it flows badly, sticking in the brush, too thin and your paint is all over the place. One of the best kept secrets of the professional painter is his ability to get optimal dilution of the paint for the job at hand. Doing this right makes your straight line easier, doing it wrong and it becomes a PITA.

Second, it is important to get a high quality brush. Too often people buy a cheap disposable $3 brush and then wonder why they can't get the result a painter gets with his $20 brush. Make sure you get a good quality brush with the right type of hair for the paint used, and you've already made a big step towards succes.
 
Alex said:
Your video shows the technique pretty well. A very important part of the brushing is indeed learning the motor skills. Took me quite a while to get that fully tuned too. Difficult part in it is to make sure you don't veer off at the end, because your natural hand movement wants to go in a circle instead of straight. Your tip of sneaking into a line is also very important. Use the first stroke to lay down the body of the paint, just shy of the edge, and use the second or third stroke to fill it out straight up to the edge.

What I didn't see in the video but I also think are important factors, are these two things: make sure you always dilute the paint to the proper viscosity to get the best flow through your brush. Too thick and it flows badly, sticking in the brush, too thin and your paint is all over the place. One of the best kept secrets of the professional painter is his ability to get optimal dilution of the paint for the job at hand. Doing this right makes your straight line easier, doing it wrong and it becomes a PITA.

Second, it is important to get a high quality brush. Too often people buy a cheap disposable $3 brush and then wonder why they can't get the result a painter gets with his $20 brush. Make sure you get a good quality brush with the right type of hair for the paint used, and you've already made a big step towards succes.

Thanks Alex.

Good tips from you as well. Interestingly, wall paints here are for the most part pretty juicy these days and don't require much modification. Trim paints on the other hand, usually get a splash of something to slick them up.

And yes, the analogy I use is to saw blades or other types of cutters. You have to have a sharp tool to do precision work. In the video, I am using a pretty well seasoned (but still tight) Purdy 2" angled sash brush. One should expect to pay $15-20 for a good quality brush these days.
 
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