Dado on Stile/Rail using OF1400

[webpp]

Hello all,

This is my first post; nevertheless been a long time reader.

Just bought my first Festool tool (i.e. the TS75). Haven't tried it yet, but it looks promising.



Anyways have a question regarding making cabinet doors.

How do I make a dado cut using the OF1400 as shown in my pic below?

Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[Stoli]

That cut would be easiest with a table mounted router and a fence. 

Trying this cut with a handheld router can be tricky because of the possibility of tipping the router.  You could use an extra piece to support the base of the router, and use an edge guide.  For the 1400 specifically, you could use 2 edge guides (492636) to trap the piece on edge.  This will limit the tipping.

 

[nclemmons]

You could use a bearing-enabled slot cutting bit -

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM1PUW?keywords=1%2F4%26%2334%3B%20slot%20cutting%20router%20bit&qid=1456959602&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Lay the piece down on a bench or table.  You'll need to clamp from each end, and might need to make an elevated 'holder' to raise it off your tale/bench, but a slot cutting bit might give you an easier way to cut it even if you have a router table than with a plunge freehand onto the edge of the piece.

 

[c_dwyer]

Just a thought: 1) given that your slot appears to be as thick as the domino mortices, 2) depending on how long you needed the slots, 3) how many of those you actually needed to do, and 4) whether you wanted to give your DF 500 bit a good workout, just skip a width for each tenon on the ends and use your DF 500 to cut the entire length of slot that you need. Slow, but if you only had a few, it would probably take just as much (or less) time than it would to set up your router, clamp the piece, center the bit, etc.

 

[ear3]

Standard slot with is 1/4", which equals 6.35 mm. If your panel was nominal 1/4 ply, you might  be able to get away with cutting the slot all the way across with the Domino in the 6 millimeter bit. Or, if it's a true quarter inch then you could run the domino all the way down at one fence setting and then change the height by a half millimeter and run down the stile again.

If you don't have a router table and still want to do this with the 1400, then the best way to go is, as someone already suggested, the slot router bit.  Doing it the other way, with the router riding on the edge, would be very difficult because of how narrow  the rail  and stile is, which probably wouldn't give enough clearance  for the edge guide, not to mention the difficulty of balancing the 1400 on a 3/4 edge. Do you have an MFT, or a setup such that you could temporarily clamp the whole frame together with domino joinery? People sometimes use this method on a router table, that is running the whole assembled frame with the slot cutting bit going around the inside of the frame. But you could also set it up this way just on your work table, and used scraps of the same thickness as extra support for when the router is just running on one rail or stile.

 

[tjbnwi]

Slot cutter.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Why not just get a tongue and groove bit set?

 

[tjbnwi]

Why not just get a tongue and groove bit set?

It does not appear the OP has a router table.

The slot could be cut using the Domino with a 5 mm bit, takes a little practice. (From his drawing it appears he does have a Domino)

Tom

 

[mouppe]

Clamp the rail/ stile to the side of the bench level with the top to provide a wider, more stable base and use a straight bit in conjunction with an edge guide.

I think slot cutters should only be used on a router table, no?

 

[webpp]

Do you have an MFT, or a setup such that you could temporarily clamp the whole frame together with domino joinery?

Thanks for your reply Edward, no I don’t have the MFT but I’ll be getting a MFTSlab from a local CNC service provider.

It does not appear the OP has a router table.

That’s right, I don’t have a router table.

Clamp the rail/ stile to the side of the bench level with the top to provide a wider, more stable base and use a straight bit in conjunction with an edge guide.

I think slot cutters should only be used on a router table, no?

Hmm…. That actually might be the best way.

 

[QuailRider43]

Cabinets doors will be in my near future as well.  May I ask the group who build cabinet doors, do you prefer the stopped dado method in the stile as illustrated by the original poster, or creating a slot along the full length of the stile, with a matching tenon in the rail +/- reinforcement by a domino?  I've seen both methods used.  I would think a full length slot in the stile is easier than fussing with stop points, but then you have to route the rails as well.  Equal trade-off?

 

[tjbnwi]

On a square edge door I use a T&G router bit set, no Domino. For profile doors I use the corresponding profile bit set, no Domino.

Tom

 

[QuailRider43]

On a square edge door I use a T&G router bit set, no Domino. For profile doors I use the corresponding profile bit set, no Domino.

Do you just use glue, or add a couple of pin nails to the back of the T&G joint?

 

[tjbnwi]

On a square edge door I use a T&G router bit set, no Domino. For profile doors I use the corresponding profile bit set, no Domino.

Do you just use glue, or add a couple of pin nails to the back of the T&G joint?

Tite Bond Orignal, clamped well, no pins.

Tom

 

[MGB]

I've built a few "shaker" doors which I think is the idea you're going for. Yes I've plowed the dado straight through and then cut a tenon into the shoulder of the rail.

I like using my domino, but I prefer this method as I believe it simplify's things and give's a craftsman look (on stain grade anyway). Much like a box joint or dovetail.

The whole process can be done quite easily just with a table saw. No need for special bits/jigs.

It's also quite easily to fabricate up a router table for your of1400.

 

[webpp]

I've built a few "shaker" doors which I think is the idea you're going for. Yes I've plowed the dado straight through and then cut a tenon into the shoulder of the rail.

I like using my domino, but I prefer this method as I believe it simplify's things and give's a craftsman look (on stain grade anyway). Much like a box joint or dovetail.

The whole process can be done quite easily just with a table saw. No need for special bits/jigs.

It's also quite easily to fabricate up a router table for your of1400.

I have a Bosch 4100 table saw along with Freud dado stack blade set, but MAN I get scared of that thing.

One of the main reason I invested in the TS75 and guide rails is to not use the table saw as much.

I was hoping there's a safe and easy way to do it with the router. Perhaps like RL said, use clamps at the edge of your MFT/MFTSlab table along with a guide rail, it might work.

 

[Holmz]

The slot cutter is easiest.
I did similar and clamped the stuff together on an MFT with the dominos in place, and later glued the parts together.

One could use a regular 1/4" bit is there was another still to balance the router on.
Or one could have a 'fence' to ride on the wider side like the 1010 has.

If you had a Zeta P2 then , and you wanted a 7-m slot, then the 1st 40 seconds shows a non-1400 option:

So there a few ways to skin a cat.