Damaged MFS profile...ugh!

[RKA]

I think this is more of a rant than a constructive post, so bear with me.

Last night, in a temporary lapse, I pulled my router up off the template before I unlocked the plunge lock.  I felt the bit nick the profile and sure enough, it's damaged.  Currently I'm just routing stair stringers, so it's no big deal.  But for finish work, it's no good.  Festool USA has no parts available for sale.  Searching online for replacement profiles is futile.  Maybe I can post a WTB in the classified and find someone who did the same thing and is unloading the remaining profiles?  It just occurred to me as I'm sitting in my office, can I just flip the profile around and relocate the hardware so the damaged part is on the outside rather than the inside?  The scale would not be usable, but I have one on the other side provided I don't mutilate that one too. 

I'm so irked that I did this.  I try to be careful with these knowing the parts are rarer than unicorns, but to be honest, I can't help but to put some of the blame on Festool.  I actually called Festool and asked who would be my sounding board if I find out they will be available in Europe again, but not NA.  I paid a pretty penny for these, they are useful, and I expect for the price I paid that parts would be available for them.  If they immediately sold out of all stock when they discontinued them, could it be there is actually a demand for them and they made the wrong decision??

 

[mwildt]

Just some ideas now that we're dealing with discontinued products.
If the nick isn't too bad maybe some epoxy, jbweld or similar could be used to fill it. Or if really bad see if a tig welder could fix it.

 

[GarryMartin]

You can have the profile filled/repaired as mentioned above, but you can also turn it around as you mention although as you note, you'll lose the inside rule.

The MFS also isn't discontinued (at least in some countries). For some reason I'm not aware of, it appeared that you couldn't buy it for a while, but it continued to be listed in catalogues and online, and is now making a return. The MFS 400 is available now and I believe the MFS 700 isn't far behind.

The profiles aren't available as "spares", but a pair of the profiles are available as accessories. The extra profiles are called MFS VP and then the length;

MFS VP 200, Part no. 492722
MFS VP 400, Part no. 492723
MFS VP 700, Part no. 492724
MFS VP 1000, Part no. 492725
MFS VP 2000, Part no. 492726

 

[Brice Burrell]

Last night, in a temporary lapse, I pulled my router up off the template before I unlocked the plunge lock.  I felt the bit nick the profile and sure enough, it's damaged.  Currently I'm just routing stair stringers, so it's no big deal.  But for finish work, it's no good.  Festool USA has no parts available for sale.  Searching online for replacement profiles is futile.  Maybe I can post a WTB in the classified and find someone who did the same thing and is unloading the remaining profiles?  It just occurred to me as I'm sitting in my office, can I just flip the profile around and relocate the hardware so the damaged part is on the outside rather than the inside?  The scale would not be usable, but I have one on the other side provided I don't mutilate that one too. 

The scale is still usable, you just need to flip the MFS over to read it from the bottom side when adjusting it.

Just some ideas now that we're dealing with discontinued products.
If the nick isn't too bad maybe some epoxy, jbweld or similar could be used to fill it. Or if really bad see if a tig welder could fix it.

I recommend bondo.

 

[RKA]

Thanks guys!  I'm afraid I would just make it worse trying to level out any filler material applied and end up with a slight concavity.  Would epoxy (or bondo) have any issues adhering to (now machined) aluminum?

In terms of flipping, I was just looking at a PDF Brice put together on the MFS (link below, page 10) and didn't realize there are male and female pins on the ends on the extrusions.  I haven't pulled mine apart since I got them, so this never occurred to me.  Any issues with those protruding pins on the ends? 

As to the scales, I guess you could flip it two ways.  The way I was thinking would put the scales on the outside or perimeter of the jig and leave the interior with a fresh straight edge.  The other way would but the scales on the inside bottom, but still leaved the damaged edge on the interior of the jig where a router bushing could still follow the divet.  Of course this way prevents the issue of the male and female pins mentioned above. 

https://service.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/MFS-Users-Guide-Brice-Burrell.pdf

 

[Cheese]

I tried to pull the pins because I wanted to use it in a different configuration. The good news is they appear to be hardened, but I think they may be a shrink fit into the holes. I couldn't pull them and really didn't want to damage them because they aren't offered as spare parts.

 

[GarryMartin]

You'll need to remove the threaded sleeve and swap sides.

Use a 3mm hex driver to completely remove the screw used for tightening the profile. The end of the threaded sleeve then takes a 4mm hex driver. Unscrew this and swap it to the other side. Then flip the profile side-to-side rather than end-to-end.

I took some photos. Hope it makes sense.

[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]

 

[mwildt]

This might work. As with all fillers depends on the size of the damaged area, depth etc.
http://bondo.com/bondor-metal-reinforced-filler-0-7-pint-90451.htmlhttp://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htmhttps://www.amazon.com/Hy-Poxy-H-259-Alumfast-Aluminum-Filled/dp/B001HCR4W2

 

[Cheese]

You'll need to remove the threaded sleeve and swap sides.

Just make sure once you remove & swap, to just let the insert reside there. I was short a couple of parts and kept swapping from end to end. Now when I try to tighten the bolt, the entire insert rotates. I'm going to try blue Loctiteing the insert in place, if that doesn't work, then I'll move up to red.