I'm sure others will have additional input, but I follow the same guidelines that I would use to determine the tenon size when making a mortise and tenon joint. For example, when using 3/4" stock I would usually make the tenon 1/4" thick so that the amount of wood left on either side of the mortise is a 1/4" also; so about a third of the wood thickness in that case. There are exceptions, of course. The only important thing for me is the amount of wood remaining on either side of the Domino slot across the thickness of the wood. For me, sufficient support on either side of the mortise translates into ensuring the integrity of the structure.
Deciding on the Domino
- Thread starter Gixxerjoe04
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pingvinlakrits
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1/3 of material thickness is a pretty solid rule of thumb.
One other thing to take into consideration is the depth of plunge which makes for a differene in stability when connecting pieces.
I don't have them all in memory (I usually free base my Domino work and it goes without thinking too much) but if you have say a 6x40mm Domino you would assume a split 12/28, 15/25 or a 20/20 split in 18mm Ply (depending on orientation of connecting pieces) would be "right" but there is a little wiggle room for the Domino so I often plunge the mortises at one stop smaller than the mathematical split - on one end - and that sometimes help with stability when dry fitting I have found.
At first I made a shim to account for the depth difference but for the most part I don't find it necessary.
So, say a 12/25 split (for 18mm Ply) which in theory would be "too shallow" actually fits better than a 12/28 "correct" split as the latter split with the wiggle room becomes a bit sloppy whereas the 12/25 gives a more snug fit. For most work I have no problem sanding/filing down the Dominos 1mm if needed but in some materials that isn't needed. For continuous shelving I find this method "better" with less wiggle.
Also I found them to be (subjectively) stronger after glue up. Don't ask me how I know [scared] [embarassed] but suffice to say sometimes people change their mind after you have done exactly what they asked you to do. I found that in most cases the Plywood would break before the Domino would.
For boxes/cabinets it is less of a problem or no problem at all. Unless you rush things and forget to reset plunge depth from deep to shallow... ...ask me how I know. I have Domino'ed into my other hand twice since the DF500 got into the market. But I am sure it won't happen again.
Does anyone get what I am talking about - does it make sense?
One other thing to take into consideration is the depth of plunge which makes for a differene in stability when connecting pieces.
I don't have them all in memory (I usually free base my Domino work and it goes without thinking too much) but if you have say a 6x40mm Domino you would assume a split 12/28, 15/25 or a 20/20 split in 18mm Ply (depending on orientation of connecting pieces) would be "right" but there is a little wiggle room for the Domino so I often plunge the mortises at one stop smaller than the mathematical split - on one end - and that sometimes help with stability when dry fitting I have found.
At first I made a shim to account for the depth difference but for the most part I don't find it necessary.
So, say a 12/25 split (for 18mm Ply) which in theory would be "too shallow" actually fits better than a 12/28 "correct" split as the latter split with the wiggle room becomes a bit sloppy whereas the 12/25 gives a more snug fit. For most work I have no problem sanding/filing down the Dominos 1mm if needed but in some materials that isn't needed. For continuous shelving I find this method "better" with less wiggle.
Also I found them to be (subjectively) stronger after glue up. Don't ask me how I know [scared] [embarassed] but suffice to say sometimes people change their mind after you have done exactly what they asked you to do. I found that in most cases the Plywood would break before the Domino would.
For boxes/cabinets it is less of a problem or no problem at all. Unless you rush things and forget to reset plunge depth from deep to shallow... ...ask me how I know. I have Domino'ed into my other hand twice since the DF500 got into the market. But I am sure it won't happen again.
Does anyone get what I am talking about - does it make sense?
Gixxerjoe04
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I had people over last night and was talking to one buddy about the domino, he's not a woodworker but likes the craft. Told him about it and was saying how I was gonna get it at woodcraft, then he told me I should just get it online so I don't have to pay sales tax. I didn't even think of that but that will save me $80 that can go towards the adapter and extra stuff.
[member=58847]Gixxerjoe04[/member] Sure is tempting to not pay the sales tax. However, I've only bought one of power tools through Amazon, Festool or not. That one I had to send back because there was damage. I know others have posted on this site with similar experiences. I'd try to find a dealer who might not charge sales tax. I don't know if that is possible, but I sure look before buying from Amazon just for the sales tax issue. Sure, they'll take it back but do you really want to go through all of that. If you were able to find a Festool dealer online who isn't required to charge you sales tax because you aren't from his state . . . the result would be the same; actually better because I have found that Festool dealers are more careful about what they send out.
Gixxerjoe04
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Yea that's who I was looking at, plus free shipping. If I buy a systainer or 2, I'll end up saving over $100, but it could be risky with shipping, just never know. If I go that route it's like getting the adapter for free.
bkharman
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Gixxerjoe04 said:
I use just about all of the dealers that sell online here. I will also say that Bob Marino has a warehouse in Cincinnati and getting from there to Lexington would be fairly quick. He also packs all tools extremely well. Worth the call or email to him.
On a side note, all of the online dealers here are excellent. Like I said, I try to spread the wealth when I can. Thanks Tom B, Bob M, tool nut guys (too many to mention) and others that supply the forum members with a steady supply of great tools!
Cheers. Bryan.
Gixxerjoe04
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Not a bad idea ordering from him, checked his website and looks like no tax and free shipping as well, sounds like that's the best route. I'm like 90% sure I'm going to order the XL, just trying to decide if I want to get a systainer or two, the small one for the xl and the one for the 500 would be nice. Tried looking up prices but do you save much/any money when buying a systainer compared to buying the stuff individually?
Steve-Rice
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I have purchased several Festool tools from the Tool Nut's FestoolProducts.com site and I have nothing but good things to say about them. In addition to not charging sales tax (they're in NY and I'm in NJ), their free shipping is extremely fast (some items actually came the next day). They also include a beautifully printed copy of the Festool supplemental manual with their tools, something I greatly appreciate. I've also had some very friendly email exchanges with them when I had questions about ordering. After my last order was delivered (ETS EC 150/3 + CT 26 + accessories), they had a customer service rep call and ask me if everything was OK and if there was anything else they could do for me...
All in all, I can honestly say, Tool Nut's customer service is second to none and they are undoubtedly getting all my future Festool business. You can't go wrong with these guys...
All in all, I can honestly say, Tool Nut's customer service is second to none and they are undoubtedly getting all my future Festool business. You can't go wrong with these guys...
Lou in DE
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Steve-Rice said:
I will add my endorsement of Tool Nut - same experience - several online orders in the last 6 months or so and I have always received the items the next day - first rate packing too - often the systainers themselves are stuffed with extra packing material to keep everything in its place.
Gixxerjoe04
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Welp, just ordered the 700 set and the 500 systainer, now gonna order the package from seneca and I'll be good to go and broke.
JFelchlin
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I completely agree with jbasen (below).
I too, "am just a hobbyist / furniture builder / homeowner with typical DIY projects around the house".
I have a lot of Festool tools - And many others that I value as well.
For years I used the Leigh FMT and DowelMax - With great results.
So I waited, watched and followed the comments/reviews on the FOG.
In the end, I too, just couldn't justify investing in 2 Dominos - So I went with the XL DF 700 and the Seneca Small Mortise Kit: RTS-500 Cutter Adapter, Domishim and Imperial Thickness Gauge - That allow you to attach the smaller DF 500 cutters to the XL DF 700.
IMO - The features on the XL DF 700 are superior to the DF 500.
I'm 68 - And not a big guy. The XL DF 700 is big - But well so well balanced - That I can tackle any project - Large or small.
BTW... I also have/use the TS-75 EQ Track Saw. No problem.
I too, "am just a hobbyist / furniture builder / homeowner with typical DIY projects around the house".
I have a lot of Festool tools - And many others that I value as well.
For years I used the Leigh FMT and DowelMax - With great results.
So I waited, watched and followed the comments/reviews on the FOG.
In the end, I too, just couldn't justify investing in 2 Dominos - So I went with the XL DF 700 and the Seneca Small Mortise Kit: RTS-500 Cutter Adapter, Domishim and Imperial Thickness Gauge - That allow you to attach the smaller DF 500 cutters to the XL DF 700.
IMO - The features on the XL DF 700 are superior to the DF 500.
I'm 68 - And not a big guy. The XL DF 700 is big - But well so well balanced - That I can tackle any project - Large or small.
BTW... I also have/use the TS-75 EQ Track Saw. No problem.
