Deepening a loose tenon mortice made by the DF500

[derekcohen]

The Domino DF500 can cut to 28mm. The loose tenons are for Jarrah bed rails, so I need 10mm mortices to around 35mm deep (the Domino is only being used for the mortice, so will be wider that the dominos, themselves). And before someone suggests that I make full mortice-and-tenon joints, I would do so but the shorter length of the boards preclude making tenons.

I could cut the mortice to 28mm with the DF500, and then drill it deeper. However, I was wondering whether it was possible to fit the DF700 cutter to complete the mortice to depth (once the initial mortice has been made)? So the question is also "can the DF700 cutter be fitted to the DF500?".

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[mrFinpgh]

I think the DF700 uses an M8x1 thread, whereas the DF500 uses an M6x.75 thread. 

 

[Jim_in_PA]

It's most certainly easier to put a short tool in the DF700 than it would be to be able to put a longer tool into the DF500...it would likely stick out at rest in the latter which would be a safety issue for sure. I think you'll have to do the deepening manually or, well...um...add a DF700 to your stable.

 

[Adamsse]

If you don't want to purchase a DF700, is there a way to connect with someone who has one? While I wouldn't lend out my tools, I might let someone bring their pieces to my shop to route the mortises as a favor.

 

[ChuckM]

Assuming the DF500 motor can take on the stress of a longer cutter, the width of the mouth may be a problem.

I have had success deepening a small number of holes (8mm or 10mm) a few times with a simple drilling jig:

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

If I foresee doing enough projects that require a DF700, I wouldn't hesitate getting one, but I don't. I can't imagine using the heavy DF700 on a day-to-day basis for 99% of my builds. Try using a DF700 (with an adapter and a 4mm cutter) to cut angled mortises (a total of 100 of them or so) precisely on stock that is 14mm thick by 600mm wide. Even the DF500 can be quite a load for my arms when I have a lot of mortises to mill in one go.

 

[mattgam]

I'm not sure this falls under the heading of a good idea, but couldn't you use aM8-to-M6 thread reducer to let you use the longer endmill.  Clearly this may result in grievous bodily harm but it might work.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

You might get it threaded on the arbor, but it simply won't work. The DF700 cutters are significantly longer than the DF500. If you notice, the DF500 cutter is very close behind the fence already, so more than just a couple of millimeters more length would stick out when the machine is at rest.
Then comes the issue of mortise width. The transmission moves the cutter back and forth at a specific distance. That distance is based upon the length of the cutter, so a longer cutter would make the mortise wider too.

 

[RussellS]

I am 100% sure on this forum your topic was discussed in the past.  Recently I think.  I just don't know how to do the searching.  Several solutions were mentioned.  Such as the drilling guide discussed above.  And using a router with a top bearing.  An 8 or 10mm top bearing router bit and then plunge it into the already cut Domino hole.  Also guides for drill bits.  And also posts that will center the drill bits or router bits on the wood.  Assuming you put your Domino hole exactly in the center of the board.

So try a search for something that sounds like what you are looking for.

 

[ChuckM]

I think the router approach is faster and cleaner. I needed to use a chisel to clean up the wall(s) if the overlapping wasn't done perfectly.

 

[derekcohen]

I think that it makes more sense to use a 1/2" spiral upcut (CMT carbide).

This has around 3" depth of cut (100mm/4" length).

So, instead of walls 10mm thick, they will end up roughly 9mm thick.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[RussellS]

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/df700-vs-df500/30/

Check page 2 of this thread from August 2022.  It talks a little bit about deepening mortises cut with the 500.  ChuckS posted his picture he shows above in the thread too.  Oddly, I remember there being a lot more discussion about deepening a mortise and a lot more different ideas on how to do it.  But it turns out there was not much discussion or suggestions.  I think my memory is getting badder and badder as time goes on.

 

[Cheese]

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/df700-vs-df500/30/
Oddly, I remember there being a lot more discussion about deepening a mortise and a lot more different ideas on how to do it.  But it turns out there was not much discussion or suggestions.  I think my memory is getting badder and badder as time goes on.

No [member=13115]RussellS[/member]  your memory is still very much intact,  [smile]  there WAS another thread and I tried searching for it yesterday but never did find it.  [sad]  I know because in it I described using a drill press & a brad point drill to deepen a mortise and in another case I used a Big Gator drill guide & a brad point drill to do the same thing.

 

[Adamsse]

You may want to look at the jig that Peter Millard came up with to drill domino mortises with a plunge router. This is his most recent video. You might want to check out his previous ones where he demonstrates how to build a similar jig. But you could buy his if you prefer.

 

[derekcohen]

I will look at the video a little later on, but I felt that I should replay to the forum about the original post/question.

The need was to ensure that the Jarrah bed ends I am building are strong enough. I had planned to use the Domino DF500 to make a wide 10mm  mortice, and add a loose tenon in Jarrah. My concern was that 24mm, the maximum depth of the Domino, would not be deep enough.

It finally dawned on me that the 24mm depth is sufficient. The bed ends are not where there is stress; it is the side rails into the ends where the stresses lie. For these areas, I shall use a shallow 10mm mortice and tenon (for registration), and then use bed bolts for strength.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Adamsse]

I’m glad things are working out for you.  I thought Peter’s video was interesting because the jig could potentially be used to drill a deeper mortise if needed. Perhaps someone else will find it of help.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I will look at the video a little later on, but I felt that I should replay to the forum about the original post/question.

The need was to ensure that the Jarrah bed ends I am building are strong enough. I had planned to use the Domino DF500 to make a wide 10mm  mortice, and add a loose tenon in Jarrah. My concern was that 24mm, the maximum depth of the Domino, would not be deep enough.

It finally dawned on me that the 24mm depth is sufficient. The bed ends are not where there is stress; it is the side rails into the ends where the stresses lie. For these areas, I shall use a shallow 10mm mortice and tenon (for registration), and then use bed bolts for strength.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Not that it matters a whole lot, but I thought the max depth was 28mm?

 

[ChuckM]

To deepen an existing Domino mortise, the fence on the router jig must be adjustable because the mortise already cut might not necessarily be milled centered in the stock. A fixed jig like this can easily be modified with an adjustable fence to make Domino mortises deeper:https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/11/16/super-simple-mortising-jig

To rout a mortise at any desired distance from the edge of a stock, Norm Abram simply used the router fence guide and a spacer block for support:

[attachimg=1]

But I also seem to recall seeing him use two router fence guides to sandwich the work so he could mortise the work (clamped in the vise) without other support.

 

[derekcohen]

I will look at the video a little later on, but I felt that I should replay to the forum about the original post/question.

The need was to ensure that the Jarrah bed ends I am building are strong enough. I had planned to use the Domino DF500 to make a wide 10mm  mortice, and add a loose tenon in Jarrah. My concern was that 24mm, the maximum depth of the Domino, would not be deep enough.

It finally dawned on me that the 24mm depth is sufficient. The bed ends are not where there is stress; it is the side rails into the ends where the stresses lie. For these areas, I shall use a shallow 10mm mortice and tenon (for registration), and then use bed bolts for strength.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Not that it matters a whole lot, but I thought the max depth was 28mm?

That should read 24mm wide and 28mm deep.

Regards from Perth

Derek