Depth Stop Chuck Review

[Dan Clark]

Wednesday night I received my Festool order from Uncle Bob after ordering it on Saturday night.  (Bob gets an A+ for service.)  This was after spending a rough day hanging drywall on my master bathroom ceiling...   

I finally got a chance to use a Senco 14.4V collated drywall screw gun that I got on a 50% off sale at Lowes several months ago.  I got a great deal on the gun and thought it would make hangin' drywall much easier.    I turns out that the only way to effectively control the gun is with two hands.  Scratch one big supposed advantage.  Then I found that it's a bit unwieldy when you're trying to get into a tight corner intersection.    Scratch another advantage.  Then I found that it sometimes it would mis-set and leave the screw a bit proud and it's not possible to reset a screw with the Senco.  So, you have to carry your Festool drill in a work belt anyway.  Scratch another advantages. 

When I read about the Depth Stop Chuck (DSC) a few months ago, I thought it looked great but I already had a great screw gun (so I thought).  After Saturday's experience,  I decided that I needed something better and it was time to order the new chuck (and the boom arm and hose garage). 

Here's the little guy on my C12:

Drill Installation: Installation, like all other Festool quick release chucks is a no brainer.  It took about 6 seconds to yank my CentroTec off and "install" the DSC.    Standard chuck.  No brainer.  Grade A+

"Bit Installation": Bit installation is very easy, but a little less obvious.  To install a standard 1" bit, grab the driving depth clutch adjuster (black thing with big ridges) in your left hand and twist the silver bit lock counterclockwise 1/4 turn.  The bit now is complete visible and you can remove it easily.  Grade A+

Speaking of bits, one the big advantages of the DSC or a lot of screw guns is that you can use standard bits.  For example, I tried it on my plywood subfloor with 1" Torx head deck screws.  Once I got it adjusted, it was very easy to repeatedly install screws to a set depth.  I also tried it on a loose board in my fence with a 2" deck screw.  Again, it was perfect.

Depth Adjustment: Depth adjustment is a pretty easy using the depth adjuster (aforementioned ridged black thing).  It came pre-adjusted to set drywall screws properly.  There are arrows on the chuck telling you graphically which direction to turn (see image just below).  Here's an image showing a closeup of the depth adjustment.  Grade: A  (I knocked off 1/2 point because the adjustment it got a tiny bit sticky after drywall dust got in there.  Not a big deal though.)

Note that the chuck is magnetized so it hold the screws well after you load one.

Ease of Use - Driving a Screw:  I thought it was GREAT!  I could set a screw with one hand while holding a (small) drywall panel up with the other one.  And, unlike the Senco, you and partially set screws before hand with it and then ram them home once the panel is in place.  Getting in corners was excellent; I could consistently place screws within 1/2" of the corners. 

Below is a pic of me driving a screw with one hand.  Not a big deal, you say?  Hmmm...  So who took the pic?    I did... By holding the camera at waist level while driving the screw.  (Actually just AFTER driving the screw.)  Grade A+

Ease of Use - Resetting a Screw:  But there's another aspect of "Ease of Use" - dealing with a mis-set screws.  Sometimes you get the screw a bit crooked or you hit a nail or smelly stuff happens.  You leave it proud and it needs to be set.  If the screw is mis-set, you can't use the DSC to reset it.  It doesn't work that way. However, since the C12 chucks are quick release, it was a breeze.  I kept the CentroTec chuck in one of my tool belt pockets.  When I needed to reset a screw, I'd twist off the DSC, pop on the CentroTec and drop the DSC in my tool belt pocket.  Then it was a few seconds to reset the screw, swap chucks and you're off and running again.  Grade: A- (Had to change chucks, but it was VERY easy!)

Removing a screw - The literature says that you can remove a screw my holding the green Quick Out ring to the left and reversing your drill.  It works pretty well, but there are two issues.  First, you have to CONTINUOUSLY hold it to the left while unscrewing the screw.  I.e., it takes two hands.  (I would have like to see it lock to the left.)  Second it only works when the screw is in wood and you can press down on the drill.  When you are screwing in drywall and miss a stud or joist, the screw floats freely.  You can't press on the screw to remove it.  But...

It's very simple to quick change to the CentroTec chuck, back out the screw, and swap again.  After a while, I'd just leave the mis-set screws and missed-joist screws and keep going.  Then I'd do a chuck quick change and fix the issues all at once.  Grade: B-

Depth Consistency - Besides ease of use, this is where the drill really shines.  Once you get your into a rhythm, you hand reaches into your screw pouch, pulls out and places a screw on the chuck, and BANG in she goes.  No fuss, no muss, and in at the right depth.  Below is a pic of a line of screws.  It's difficult to tell, but they are perfect.  When you place your fingers up there, every one is set to the same depth.  (Except of course where I missed the joist.)  Grade: A+

Documentation: This was so easy to use, docs weren't an issue.  I looked at them.  They were simple and readable.  That's all that was necessary.  Grade: B+

Tips: Three tips, especially if you have a Festool C12:

1) Wear a tool belt while installing drywall or installing lot's of screws.  Get one with a big pocket for the C12, a little pocket at the top to hold the DSC or CentroTec Chuck, and a good open screw pocket.  This gives you massive freedom and reduces your hassle factor tremendously.

2) Keep your hand as high on the grip as possible so that your arm is in line with the drill head.  This will reduce wrist fatigue.

3) Pre-screw the screws part way on tough pieces.  This let's you place the piece (drywall, fence slat, whatever) with one hand and screw them in with the other.

Overall: I love it!  It's worth ever penny!!!  (After using this guy for 30 minutes, I packed my Senco screw gun back in its box and stored it in the garage.) Overall Grade: A

I hope you find this review useful.  Let me know if you have any questions.  I'll do my best to answer them.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Ned]

Great review Dan, with the kind of detail people who haven't actually held or used the product need.

Now I want one.

Will the DSC/C12 combo handle 3" deck screws?

Ned

 

[Dan Clark]

Ned,

Hi.  I tried the DSC with 2" deck screws with no problem.  I haven't tried 3" deck screws with the DSC.  But I don't forsee any issues.  It's more of an issue with the drill...

Below is a pic of the 3" X 5/16 lag screws (the top ones) that I installed in 2 X 12 dry joists sistered with 2 X 12 Microllam beams (slightly over 3" thick total).  The wimpy lookin' ones on the bottom ones are 2-1/2" deck screws that you buy at Lowes.  Same as 3" but 1/2" shorter.  I also had to install some 3-1/2" versions of the same 5/16" lag screw.  The C12 handled them with no problem. 

The only issue I found is that, after slamming about 75 or so of these big lag screws into Microllam, the battery started giving out.  Fully charged, the 2.4 Mh battery (the middle sized one) will only handle about 80-90 of these big boys.  (It should handle 200+ of the little 3" deck screws.)  Of course, I had to install these 70 or so of these lag screws in my joists within 10 minutes before the adhesive skimmed over.

The second pic shows the lag screws 1/2 installed into a joist (microllam sister on the other side).  I slathered four tubes of construction adhesive on the joists, slapped them together and clamped, and then screwed in the lag screws.  (Interesting fun if you're a masochist.)

I hope this helps.

Dan.

 

[Dan Clark]

Ned,

If you're going to install drywall it's great.  If you are installing something like two layers of sub-floor, which requires certain types of screws, this is a must.   

The first pic shows the top layer of two layers of my bathroom sub-floor.   In the bottom layer, I used my Senco screw gun to install 3/4" T&G plywood to the joists.   The screws were 1 5/8" screws installed using my Senco.  It was better than installing by hand, but virtually all had to be hand reset.   I set them with the Senco, then a kid I hired came along behind me and hand-set most of them with my Festool C12.   

The second layer was installed with 1-1/4" deck screws using a Dewalt drill (my helper) and my C12(me)   The second pic shows me installing the screws using a stool, my C12, and the CentroTec chuck.    After an entire day installing the screws in each layer my back was completely locked.   (Note that the cutting and fitting took one day; the final screwing-in took one day PER LAYER.)   

When hand-setting these, you have to SLOWLY screw them in to get the proper set.  If proud, the floor won't be flat.  If you break through the top layer plywood layer, you lose strength and have install a new screw right next to it.   ONE SERIOUS PAIN (literally)!

I would have given almost anything to have the Depth Stop Chuck to install this stuff.   Just load the screw, pull the trigger on high speed, and bang - in she goes.   

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., the top pic shows only 1/2 of the room.

 

[James Metcalf]

Dan

Good job on the review.My recipe may not bake your cake but where there is an arrow like the one on the chuck, I take white out and fill it in to make it more visible in dim light. Not necessary, but good for an old guy like me.

James Metcalf

 

[Dan Clark]

James,

Great suggestion.    That will make it more readable.   

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

        I have two questions and a couple comments.

    What does the quick out ring do that putting the drill in reverse doesn't do?

      When you turn the grey nose piece to remove the bit does it come off to allow access to the bit?  Could you post a pic of this?  The screwguns that I currently have are a real pain to change bits on. I often need pliers to pull them out.

              Excellent review!  This chuck is a great addition to the Festool drills, and if (when  I get a C12 I will also get this chuck.  I have a couple screw guns  and use them often in woodworking.

            The only thing that I would add is that the basic way that this chuck works is the same as any other screw gun , someone unfamilliar with screwguns as opposed to drill/drivers could get the idea that this depth sensitive type of chuck  is unique to Festool.

Seth Semenza

 

[Dan Clark]

Seth,

This is my third attempt at writing a nice detailed response.   I screwed up twice before, so this is short and sweet.

Yes, you can take the bit out with your fingers.   Here's the pics with nose tip on and off:

The C12 has the advantage of having quick release chucks.  You don't have to carry around multiple drills (most with cords).   Here's a thread showing how I carry the C12 and bits:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=791 (scroll towards bottom).

Regards,

Dan.

 

[semenza]

  Dan, Thanks for the pics, nice close ups. That would indeed make it easy to change bits.

Seth

 

[mantonuc]

Good review of the DSC...  Just out of curiosity, why would one need to twist the green ring to back out a screw?  Why not just design the DSC such that the "depth stop" works in the forwards (clockwise) direction but applies continuous torque when backing out a screw?  That would solve the issue when one must back out a drywall screw when missing the stud...

Matt

 

[Eli]

I wondered the same thing, the only thing I can possibly imagine is that the existance of the green 'back-out' ring means that the chuck will also countersink screws in reverse. Don't know if there are counterclock (left hand) thread sinking applications. I did not have to remove the last (grey nose tip) bit to back out screws, just twisted the green ring and it locked out and left the bit proud enough to grab. Using this chuck on 19mm subfloor into pine joists, I found the best strategy was to sink it 3/4 of the way, reverse and engage ol' greeny ring to back almost all the way out, then get a good running start in forward to sink home. That worked, but as Anthony (nt900) has said elsewhere, we did break a fair number of PH2 bits and a few screws sheared.

 

[Dan Clark]

Sorry for the delayed response.  Regarding "why" it's designed that way, I won't speculate.  I do know that you can sink the screw further or back it out completely by twisting the green ring.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Mark]

I finally used the DSC today but now I "get" what the backout ring does. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how turning the ring would "reverse" the drill direction. Festool magic I thought through some super engineering. Again... "I am not worthy" of Festool. I now understand "after" reading this that the green ring just prevents the bit from retracting into the muzzle of the DSC.

Duh.

I'm using it... or rather "tried" using it on this stuff called "Canec" which is what old houses in Hawaii used on their ceilings. Its basically insulation board and about as sturdy as toasted white bread. I am still amazed at how carpenters used this stuff in the old days, pre-drywall screws without making a mess like I've done. Hammer and nail vs. c12+DSC. I can just feel the ghosts of old carpenters laughing at me with all my fancy tools!