Design ideas needed for shop based 4x8 ft cutting / assembly table

Klemm

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As a new TS55 owner I need to adapt or replace an existing shop based 4x8ft assembly table to do double duty as a track saw cutting table for plywood sheets. The table is in a larger but extremely congested shop.

What is the most practical way to create a semi permanent table surface setup for ripping and crosscutting?
Which FESTOOL (MFT) parts should I buy for this purpose?

Unanswered questions in my mind:
MDF surface with MFT hole pattern and bench dogs?  QWAS?
How to protect - or not protect the MDF - so others can use the table for mostly smaller assembly projects
Using 2" EPS styrofoam sheets on the table top as a spoil board creates a handling/storage problem when the EPS sheet is not needed.
How to preserve conventional wood working clamping edge space

Besides the cutting capability on the table surface I plan to build several wood drawer cases to be housed underneath along one long side while parking my Systainers below the table on the opposite side.

I know your feedback will help me get a headstart toward an optimal solution.

I have spent hours reading FOG posts before writing this post. Amazing information resource.
thanks for helping [smile]
Hans
 
Hi Hans

I had a similar experience with my original shop set up.
I moved over to two MFT3 tables and haven't looked back.
They are normally set up short ends together for a long narrow table.
I originally tried the insulation sheet to rip large sheets on but as you said the storage of that was problematic.
I now use 6 pieces of 45x45 (1200mm long) timber which have a hole drilled in the centre.
When I have large sheets to rip I place the timbers across the tables, pass a clamp up from the bottom and through the hole to keep them in place. I can then cut sheets all day without any unsupported edges and no cuts in the tables. They only take minutes to set in place and are cheap to replace.
Hope that's all clear.
This would work on any bench but I find the MFT3's so adaptable for my works if I had to I would replace them without hesitation. There ability for Cross cutting after the rips is super easy and repeatable.
Good luck.
Scott
 
Scott
thanks for your response. If I had the space I would have bought an MFT. I am stuck with the requirement for the 4x8 ft assembly table, although I can modify with additional functionality.
A picture of your set-up would be welcome to better understand.
My need to have a one-piece surface assembly table set up all the time (when I'm not cutting) narrows the design options for me. I look forward to additional responses.
Hans
 
Regarding your comment about using 2" foam and then storing it, you won't need that thick a foam if you have a solid surface below.  Use 3/4" and slice it into three pieces.  Much easier to store, saves some $$.

Peter
 
I also use a torsion box.

Tom
 

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I built this table. Dados and screwed it together because I don't need it to come apart currently. Screwed the assembly down to a shop cart and it works beautifully. 1 sheet of 3/4 plywood and a few hours time. Hope this helps.
 

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Here is what I use. When not needed I can store all the pieces away.

I had a 4x4 mft top made for it because the way I designed it I can also use it as a 4x4 table.
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I took a sheet of 8'x4'x1" ply that I cut into 8'x2's and then used the MFT and LR32 to route 20mm holes over the whole surface.

These are placed on a pair of saw stands to make an 8'x4' assembly table, or when covered by 4'x2'x1" foam, a flexible saw bench.

I used 2' wide pieces because they are easy to handle and store and as the saw stands are 5' long can be expanded to an 8'x5' bench. (Or 6' with a small over hang.)
 
to all Respondents:
thank you so much for the breadth of ideas. I just got back before the holiday so I will post another reply,point by point comments and more questions by Thanksgiving day
good night for now
Hans aka Klemm
 
Happy THANKSGIVING to All !
my comments on all your feedback as follows:

Styrofoam tips by PETER HALLE and BOHDAN only 1" thick and cut into 4ftx 2ft pieces for handling and storage are a super suggestion - will do that.

Caster suggestion by HOLMZ is way to go for flexible shop arrangement. Have done this in my earlier shop but downsized I no longer have a need or space to move the 4x8 table.

Torsion Box and collapsible table not needed for now because table will remain fixed installed and flatness accuracy not an issue because I expect plywood cases with DOMINO joinery to be self aligning / squaring.

Parallel Guides by CORWIN: clever fixture design. Looks like INCRA Jig parts used - correct? - what software was used to create this nifty animation?

I'll post pictures of the final set-up in a few months. For now I will get styrofoam and get some experience with the TS-55-REQ system and learn what needs further improvement as I go.

thanks again
Hans

 
I am not as fancy.
I have an old folding table like the ladies at the local church would serve cups of tea from.
But without a table cloth to spruce it up.

I unfold the legs and hope t doesn't shift around too much.
this works for me, but if I was in the snow or wind, I would not want to be in the driveway or patio with a fold out table.
 
Klemm said:
Happy THANKSGIVING to All !
my comments on all your feedback as follows:

Styrofoam tips by PETER HALLE and BOHDAN only 1" thick and cut into 4ftx 2ft pieces for handling and storage are a super suggestion - will do that.

Caster suggestion by HOLMZ is way to go for flexible shop arrangement. Have done this in my earlier shop but downsized I no longer have a need or space to move the 4x8 table.

Torsion Box and collapsible table not needed for now because table will remain fixed installed and flatness accuracy not an issue because I expect plywood cases with DOMINO joinery to be self aligning / squaring.

Parallel Guides by CORWIN: clever fixture design. Looks like INCRA Jig parts used - correct? - what software was used to create this nifty animation?

I'll post pictures of the final set-up in a few months. For now I will get styrofoam and get some experience with the TS-55-REQ system and learn what needs further improvement as I go.

thanks again
Hans

Happy Thanksgiving to you too!  [big grin]

Yes, I used Incra Incremental Track. But, that's what I had on hand back then and there are other possibilities that are smaller and lighter that you could use instead. Yet, those Incra tracks work just fine in this application.

I've just been playing with SketchUp 2015 since mid-August. Didn't know you could make animations with it. Kind of fun, but a huge consumption of 'spare time' if there is such a thing...

I only posted this on your thread to illustrate how you could work with your Festool Guide Rails without going the ever-popular dog-hole route that so many seem stuck on around here. Those dogs really are only useful on a table that has a grid of holes, and if you aren't going to purchase MFT table, then I see no need to make your own table to match. I mean, why go through the expense of a CNCed top just to obtain square when you could just as easily purchase a good quality square instead? Anyway, the point being that how you work with your Guide Rails may dictate how you construct your table, or not, and maybe what methods you will use ought to be taken into account in your table needs.
 
INCRA parts for home made parallel guide was a creative approach. I'll have to look into INCRA further for special fixture building projects.
SketchUp ability to do animations was news to me. Because of the woodworker oriented set-up in this CAD application I am attracted to using it rather than my full blown SolidWorks. But even though it is intuitive in mmany ways I quickly discovered the learning curve is not a short one. Your reaction serves as a further caution against an unplanned diversion of time into SketchUp when I really want to get going with several woodworking projects including the construction of a full set of wood biplane wings.

I am trying to figure out if there is a relatively simple way to arrive a functionality like the flip-up track hinge on the MFT to get "squar" for crosscuts. I.m thinking I would not need 100 plus dog holes. Just six shoul suffice to get square. I'm anxious to try my hand and find out what I still need and need to learn or know. Your critical comments regarding the  need for MFT hole pattern was helpful. I am thinking a Woodpecker square - is there any other Square more appropriate?

thanks again
Hans
 
Why do people make open frame cutting tables? It seems limiting when it comes to small pieces, I cannot see what the issue is in just having a sheet of ply or mdf for a cutting surface
 
as the newbie track saw fella on this forum I see the open collapsible "table" as a way of remining mobiloe on a job site. As the only cutting table in a smaller shop I can't see anything that does not have a surface - with or without benchdog hole pattern.

Let's hear from the open table users what they can tell us
Hans
 
I think it's purely that you have less to cut through with an open table.  I have Overanalyze's table in my shop and I wouldn't be without the thing.  It's all about versatility.  I can set it up to cut sheet goods with no top.  I can throw my 4x4 MFT style top on it and use the smaller size for assembly and cutting.  I can put a piece of plywood on top and have an assembly table.  I can add my legs to it and have it as an out feed table for my anything in the shop that needs it. 

It's just a really versatile piece for a guy that has limited space and doesn't want a permanent cutting table set up all the time.  The fact that it goes flat to hang on the wall is just a super duper bonus.

I also have a MFT style bench, with torsion box, on castors, with storage and I really like that too although I don't cut on it with out sacrificial cleats.





IMG_3093 by Brad Taylor, on Flickr

IMG_3079 by Brad Taylor, on Flickr
 
ifit said:
Why do people make open frame cutting tables? It seems limiting when it comes to small pieces, I cannot see what the issue is in just having a sheet of ply or mdf for a cutting surface

I cut on foam. By doing this you save the table and support small pieces.

Tom

 
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